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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Anyone have any recommendations on camshafts and springs, I would like to hear them

The problem I have now is the 6466 kicks on between 4,000-4,500 depending what gear I am in, and it seems like the power drops off after 6,000 due to the factory 233 cams. So I get a boat load of power for only 1,500-2,000 RPMs making my powerband a bit short.

I have been looking at GSC S1 and Kelford C. Any other cams I should consider?

I also don't see ever pushing the revs past 8,000. I would like a good power band between 4,500-7,500.

I am leaning more towards Kelford because of the weird GSC issues I have been reading lately.

Kelford also recommends going with their own $800 valve spring which seems way too expensive. So if anyone else have a better spring to recommend, I would great appreciate it.
 

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I have HKS 264s with BC single springs/Ti retainer. Quiet, good idle, pulls well up to my 7250 rpm redline.
I like the Kelfords, they’d be my choice and I’m sure they’d be just fine with the BC springs. Seat pressure for the BC’s is 80lbs which is in line with the Kelford springs if memory serves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Update

Got the WC-1 Haltech Wideband and 3.5" BTI gauge in the mail and installed both of them yesterday. Also pulled out the remainder of the SCG-1. Both plugged into the CAN system and worked as they should.

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While I had the dash apart, I wire tapped into the front right wheel sensor. All of the information I had was for the 93-96, and the 97 is completely different. Plugs, harnesses, all of it.

Went into B3 Red on the smaller connector going into the ABS unit and put a wiretap on it and ran that wire into the 12-pin auxiliary connector on the Elite 2500 as SPI2.

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Set the front ABS signal as reluctor, falling edge, and enable pullup.
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Went out and drove the car once everything was back together and tried my best to calibrate the sensor at 37 mph. Was pretty close, but will still have to fine tune it to get the drivetrain (rear wheel) to match the front wheels.

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Traction control is still disabled, but I needed to make sure everything was working.

Went out and did a quick second gear pull and got some tire spin to see what the wheels speeds were.

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Couple notes from the second gear pull.

Front and rear wheels speeds are about a mph off. When I spun the tires, you can definitely see the rear wheel speed (orange line) speed up over the front wheel (turquoise line). It appears to be a success. Haltech says these two inputs are enough to enable a traction control strategy.

I also saw the first sign of fuel pressure loss at 26 psi, 62% ethanol, 5,500 RPMs, ~11:1 AFRs and a cool night. You can see the divergence on the graph in the last plot. I am not sure if this is pressure loss because I am running out of pump or because the tires were breaking loose. Either way I will probably need to order a relay kit for the second pump soon. It never ends.

I also love that the BTI gauge will allow me to set 7 different boost strategy's and 7 different traction control strategy's that I can change on the fly through the touch screen.

More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Decided to put a real conservative traction control strategy in just to make sure its working. Anything over 5% slip between the front and rear tires and over 30 mph and the Elite 2500 should be cutting spark progressively as the slip increases.

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The way I believe this all works from reading is that traction control desired slip is the allowable variance before the strategy goes into affect. The slip error% is added to the desired slip to determine cut percentage, so add 10% slip (5% desired slip + 5% slip error) you should be getting a 5% cut. 15% slip (5% desired +10% slip error) you should get a 10% cut, etc.

Went out and took the car for a spin. Unless I get the R888Rs real warm they usually have no chance in keeping the car planted in second gear.

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From the log above, you can see right when I hit 20 psi and 4,300 RPMs in second gear the wheel slip percentage crosses the 5% threshold and peaks up near 15%.

I could definitely feel the ignition cutting during this event and the power was reduced a lot. The whole event took almost a second until the wheels were back in synchronization.

This type of strategy would definitely help someone not lose control of the car, but it definitely wouldn't win you any races.

Now that everything is working, I will need to try and fine tune this so its less aggressive.

I will probably try a base slip of 10% and maybe throttle back some of the cut percentages by half.

I can also add MPH into the y-axis and make a strategy that is much more conservative at higher speeds and a bit looser at lower speeds.

I also have a inquiry in with Haltech about an ignition correction strategy (timing retard) of mph vs slip% since it was in the ESP software but doesn't appear to be in the new NSP software.....

More tuning fun ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Been playing around with traction control. Moved it up to a base slip of 10% and reduced all of the cut events by half. It still works but much less aggressive.

Went out on the interstate and put it in third gear and it spooled up to 27 pounds and began slipping and traction control cut ignition. It is definitely more of failsafe at this point.

To stop the tires from spinning, I have made a more linear boost curve to keep the surge of power from hitting at 4,500.

I am now commanding 18 psi by 4k, 22 psi by 5k, 26 psi by 6k, and 25 psi by 7k. I was able to do a nice pull up to 6,600 RPMs in 2nd gear with minimal slip and no ignition cutting.

Got a max of 4% slip.

The issue now is you can clearly see the fuel pressure expected vs fuel pressure actual starting to diverge at about 5,900 RPMs and 23.7 psi.

By the end of the pull, I am about 3 psi down on fuel pressure, which tells be I am about max on the first 450 LPH pump. AFRs were 11.3 instead of 11.0.

I already purchased a painless relay kit and will be hooking up the second pump and using a spare DPO to trigger pump #2 at 10 psi.

Injector Duty Cycle was at about 73% at 6,700 RPMs. I thought the 1440s injectors were all I would ever need. Maybe should have gone 1650s.

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Second pump should help a bit with DC, and you can always bump the base fuel pressure up to something between 50-60 psi. The 6466 really comes alive in the 24-26 psi range in my experience. I bet you're enjoying that. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Second pump should help a bit with DC, and you can always bump the base fuel pressure up to something between 50-60 psi. The 6466 really comes alive in the 24-26 psi range in my experience. I bet you're enjoying that. :)
Its fun but traction is becoming limited quickly on cool days and still 150 horsepower from goal.

Maybe I'm destined to be 15" weld guy with big balloons out back as I'm already driving around with 26-27 psi in the R888Rs.

Hopefully a cam upgrade will stretch the torque out to the right and give a more linear powerband.

I also need to start looking at a 4 bar map sensor.

I am officially in the rabbit hole of modifying a supra...
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
Received the fuel pump relay yesterday and installed it. It was a painless relay kit for like $35. Fabricated a little L-bracket and mounted it to a bolt hole behind the spare tire. The previous owner removed the factory sub enclosure and has a custom fiberglass molded box for the speakers so this bolt was open but seemed heavy duty for a nice chassis ground.

Pin 86 - Goes to the blue wire (97-98) on the fuel pump ECU which is the switched 12 volt trigger +
Pin 85 - Goes to DPO 4 on the Haltech wiring harness as the trigger ground
Pin 30 - Goes to the battery and a has a 30 amp inline fuse about 6 inches from the positive terminal
Pin 87 - Goes to the + on the second fuel pump
The ground (green wire) from the second fuel pump is bolted to the chassis ground where the L-bracket holds the relay.
I did it this way in case I have any issues with the second pump turning on, I should be able to diagnose everything from this area.

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Ran the ground trigger wire into the Haltech harness as DPO4 (which was the intake VSV I no longer need).

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Setup the pump in the NSP software and everything tested normally.

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Set the second 450 pump to only turn on above 4,000 RPMs at 10+ psi. Should be more than enough since I don't see pressure loss until after 5,500 RPMs and 20+ psi.

Still working on boost control and traction control.

Also enjoying my new cluster courtesy of Fastturbo.
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Just a quick update. Was able to go out and get a pull to make sure the fuel pumps are all working as they should.

Added another 5 gallons of ethanol and it's now up to 67% on the ethanol sensor.

Did a quick second gear pull up to 6,200 RPMs.

You can see that the second fuel pump turned on at 4,000 RPMs and immediately fuel pressure jumped up 1-2 psi over expected and stayed that way until I let off.

Only got up to 22.5 psi of boost, but I think I would have seen some pressure loss if the 2nd pump wasn't on. Previously expected vs actual was within a 0.5 psi of each other, so it definitely seems like pressure is up.

Injector duty was 66% on 67% ethanol, 6,200 RPMs, 22.5 psi, and 11.2 AFR

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Discussion Starter · #72 · (Edited)
New Update

I am running out of headroom to set boost cuts with the internal 3 bar MAP sensor (~29 psi), so I should have a Haltech 4 bar show up tomorrow. This should give me some breathing room.

Also, I have a Tial BOV showing up tomorrow because I don't want to keep pushing the boost without one.

Fuel pressure is always about 1-2 psi above the expected level, so the second fuel pump is turning and supplementing as designed.

Onto the fun stuff.

While I got ignition cut to work well for traction control, I didn't like the way it feels misfiring under load so I am now moving to ignition retard then cut percentage.

After looking in the wrong tab, I found a generic ignition correction tab in the NSP software and made myself a table.
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Used conditions 3,500+ RPMS for activation because slip percentage is high due to wheel speed sensors now being accurate at low speeds. Also added 75% TPS for activation.

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I tried to find some good strategies online and it seemed like they were pretty aggressive. I know I didn't want to go much past 20 degrees of retard and get the EGTs mooning.

I started with the above to see how the car would behave.

The strategy was a 5% slip minimum, then 5-10% slip its starts progressively reducing timing from 2-20 degrees, then from 10% slip on it begins to progressively cut ignition.

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Went out and did a pull after a 10-minute warmup with cold R888Rs and mashed the throttle in second gear and immediately got up to 8% slip and the timing torpedoed down to 5 ATDC and it felt like it immediately removed 250 horsepower. The good news was slip percentage immediately dropped to 3%, but this was far too violent of a cut. Timing was pulled so hard that the boost pressure (blue line) started moving off the target boost because I assume it was an anti-lag condition juicing up the turbine. Just a bit too aggressive.

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I will try the above next and see if it's a bit better at controlling wheel spin (its above half as aggressive). Maybe move it to 5-15% ignition retard then a hard cut at 15%?

Obviously, warming up you tires and dialing in a nice boost by gear/MPH strategy is much better at reactively controlling wheel spin, but I would like to do both.

There are a few variables I will have to consider when dialing in traction control, and I'm sure it's different for every car.

A. How much slip without intervention is best?
B. Once that slip number is known, how aggressively should the timing retard be implemented?
C. If timing retard isn't enough, how aggressively should the ignition cut be implemented?

Dialing in all three variables so that you get the maximum amount of power down for the conditions without losing control.

If anyone has any suggestions on what variables work best, I would appreciate it.

New Update

Tried my new strategy and it was a total success. Now it was 20 degrees warmer out and the warm pavement surely helped with traction, but i'll take it.

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Did a second gear pull and it felt fast, smooth, and stable. You can feel the power gently oscillating through the pull, but not so much that it feels like a hinderance.

Stabbed the throttle and got up to 25 psi very quickly.

You can see the wheel slip % (orange line) cross 5% and the ignition timing (red line) start to retreat almost immediately. The slip drops below 5% and the timing starts increasing and almost immediate slip goes back up to about 9% then timing dives back down to 10 degrees (and so does slip) about when I let off the throttle at 6,500 RPMs. It looks much more aggressive on the graph than it felt in the car, but this is what I was after.

Normally at the top of second, ignition timing would be in the 18-20 degree range and you can see I was only at 10.7 degrees.

Since I was almost at 10% slip, I think I am going to extend my ignition retard map out to about the 15% slip range and make the ignition cut come in at 15% in a more aggressive way.

Just loaded the strategy in. 0-5% slip no intervention, 5.5% slip starts pulling 1 degree, by 15% slip it will be pulling 15 degrees, 16% slip and up and it starts cutting ignition progressively until 25% slip when it's a full 100% cut.

New update 1/22

Changed the PID controller on boost to 1.25, 0.15, 0 and it seems to be the best setting yet as the boost curve doesn't overshoot and gets close on the first run up then error back to the line decently quick. Also check how traction was working on another 2nd gear pull. Tires were a bit warmer, but it was still cold outside (~50s).

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Right at about 5,500 RPMs slip moves above 5% and its pulls about 5 degrees and timing oscillates between 5-7.5% slip through the top of second gear. Works perfectly.

Also took note in the logs that IATs are only moving up about 2 degrees F above ambient temps after a pull. The big heavy 4.5" PHR intercooler does a helluva job removing heat from the turbo considering the turbo outlet temp only about 4 feet behind the IAT sensor should be ~300 F.

Now onto the 4 bar MAP sensor install.
 
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