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when you slid the trans in ,did you have trouble getting the input shaft in the pilot bearing that resides in the motors crankshaft.if the driveshaft spins then that tells me trans is in neutral. If this trans has never been apart and shifted prior,hard to blame anything internal. if Trans was apart then I would point towards shift detents on the shift shafts. the transmission has allen plugs on the side which holds a spring and check ball which rides on the shift shafts and falls into notch’s in the shafts.
 

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So you don't have to remove the pump to learn more. Lift up the cargo floor, and you'll see the fuel pump wiring is easy to get to. Apply 12v directly to see if it's working. If yes, you just saved the half day and danger of removing the fuel tank. Continue to troubleshoot the wiring and relays instead.

Of course if the pump doesn't go even with direct 12v then the pump has to be replaced.

A word about forums and making the best of your information and the people that help you. I typed an entire paragraph for you about the brackets, and about the clutch slave that looks like the pin is not even in the release arm to do it's work. Instead of addressing that, you moved on to "I have a fuel pump problem" which I doubt. So now you're chasing a fuel pump problem without saying a word about what it is. The rest of us know there is something unique about the Supra's fuel pump wiring that you may not know. So, you may be chasing a problem that does nit exist.

I suggest you slow down and keep us in the loop. Something like "Hey, when I turn the key on, my starter does not prime" What's the logical next step?
 

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So you don't have to remove the pump to learn more. Lift up the cargo floor, and you'll see the fuel pump wiring is easy to get to. Apply 12v directly to see if it's working. If yes, you just saved the half day and danger of removing the fuel tank. Continue to troubleshoot the wiring and relays instead.

Of course if the pump doesn't go even with direct 12v then the pump has to be replaced.

A word about forums and making the best of your information and the people that help you. I typed an entire paragraph for you about the brackets, and about the clutch slave that looks like the pin is not even in the release arm to do it's work. Instead of addressing that, you moved on to "I have a fuel pump problem" which I doubt. So now you're chasing a fuel pump problem without saying a word about what it is. The rest of us know there is something unique about the Supra's fuel pump wiring that you may not know. So, you may be chasing a problem that does nit exist.

I suggest you slow down and keep us in the loop. Something like "Hey, when I turn the key on, my starter does not prime" What's the logical next step?
Well hopefully she pulled the fuse to kill the pump anyway. New motor,I’d have plugs out,fuse pulled and crank that motor for awhile to prime that oil pump and get oil through the journals. hell I do that after any hibernation,when I can’t fire it up regularly
 

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Jeane - any update on this? To make it clear, don't order a fuel pump until you confirm it's "out". The Supra does not turn on to prime the system like most you are used to. So, a lot of people make the mistake and waste time and money.
 

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1988 Supra, 7M-GE, 5 speed, removable hard top,
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Jeane - any update on this? To make it clear, don't order a fuel pump until you confirm it's "out". The Supra does not turn on to prime the system like most you are used to. So, a lot of people make the mistake and waste time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
I wish I'd have seen that deal about having that hole in the truck before I dropped the tank. Sorry!
Yep no power to the fuel pump. It works fine. Had an issue with fuse box by the clutch, where are the brake lights weren't working. And they aren't again. But neither is my check engine light. So I switched out the fuse box. Just got done with that. But still no power to the fuel pump.
As far as the transmission being apart. I had taken it to a transmission shop, because it was in gear and I didn't know how to get it out. And I didn't know how to put it in with it in gear. They charged me fifty bucks to open it up, saying there was dirt in it. They wanted to charge me another fifty bucks to put it back together. So I did it. But I believe they just open the case. Nothing more.
I did have trouble getting the drive shaft on. It wouldn't just slide on. So I used a rubber hammer to put it on. I did not have the drive shaft apart. Merely took it off the trans & differential. I had help taking it off. Seemed he knew what he was doing. I see more guys who don't, than do tho. That's why I TRY to do all my own work. .BUT I didn't put ANY match marks on ANYTHING. Which I since seen I should have. But, what can I do about that now?
I'm gonna TRY to fix the trans mount now.
BTW- There IS the pin in slave cylinder. Still needs proper bleeding. TRIED to bleed w/ suction thingy. since couldn't find a helper. But didn't work. Altho, shouldn't matter about shifting gears tho, right? I used to drive a little Monza I had, w/o a clutch cable for months. Just shut off car IF had to come to complete stop. And started in gear. So, I figure that can't be issue, can it?
 

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So do you even realize the fuel pump does not get power all the time? Stop wasting time - learn about the fuel pump operation.
 

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So guy probably took tail housing of trans and shift rods extend into it. You can also pull the front casing without really messing with the shift rods. If you got a good manual on the car that might help you.
 

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You can see in the pics the holes in the main plate and then the one in top with the Allen head bolt. There is bearings, then a spring that go in there before locking down with the Allen plug
 

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This is the end of the shift rods which your shifter hooks into with a rod that’s in the rear housing. I’m willing to bet it’s not hooked in there
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
U said one side of mount was slanted. I BELEIVE it said. Which side goes forward? My service manual merely says install w/ 8 bolts.
So do you even realize the fuel pump does not get power all the time? Stop wasting time - learn about the fuel pump operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I have the service manual. Of course, it's seen better days. Found it on-line about 15+ years ago. And printed all of it.

ALSO found the elect book. BUT it is TOTALLY mixed up. Being as none of the pages are numbered. And probably missing a bunch. Have it saved to my pH too. BUT SOOO hard to read on my pH.

,idahodoug, I have schematics on fuel pump. All checks out OK so far. Pumps good too. BUT comes on NEVER!
Neither does my check engine light. AND the check connector doesn't seem to do anything about anything.
HOW DO I CHECK THOSE THINGS OUT??? How do I "learn how the fuel pump operates"? The info in chapter 6 of service manual doesn't exactly explain it. Pump isn't turning on AT ALL, unless I wire it direct.

2jzturbo92- I bet ur right. I need to take trans back off to fix it, tho. RIGHT?
(BTW- ONLY the case was removed. BUT to put the case on, that "rod" had to be positioned correctly. And I prob didn't do it right. This was my first experience w/ trans. Other than just putting on motor. I bought new clutch too. It's possible something'soff there too. All 3 motors had diff flywheels.I used old 1. Still not sure if did right. When doing clutch, couldn't find anything that was completely clear on how clutch fork installs. Even called tech support. So I guessed. SEEMS right, BUT not positive.
Be so much easier if someone could just look and tell me. (LOL) Since that's not an option. I'll figure it out, sooner or later.

ALSO, FYI: I put in used 90 motor, bpought online. I knew about oil priming.was told to turn ignition on/off few times. RIGHT? Been turned on/off million times. Due to issues.
 

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Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
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when you slid the trans in ,did you have trouble getting the input shaft in the pilot bearing that resides in the motors crankshaft. If the driveshaft spins then that tells me trans is in neutral. If this trans has never been apart and shifted prior, hard to blame anything internal. if Trans was apart then I would point towards shift detents on the shift shafts. the transmission has Allen plugs on the side which holds a spring and check ball which rides on the shift shafts and falls into notch’s in the shafts.
What are you getting at here asking about difficulty with the pilot bearing relative to whether the drive shaft spins?

The reason I asked, I am experiencing almost the same symptoms as the OP, and yes, I had trouble with the pilot bearing. Aaron @ DriftMotion set me straight... the input shaft was slightly bowed and had to be repaired with emery cloth to get it to fit. When I went to install the drive shat (a one-piece, aluminum) it would not slide on and I resorted to the BFH for a hit or two, then to a plastic dead-blow. After that, the trans only shifts 1 through 4. 5th and reverse are not available. My transmission has not been apart, recently, at least. It's all in the car now, installed engine and trans as one piece, and I was going to address this when I take it out before the final installation. (only put back in to custom make oil lines, and fit hard pipes to intercooler, etc. It comes out again, and then back in).

Someone suggested it was because there was no lubricant in the trans, so I added the appropriate stuff. Car is not running, and front wheels currently off the ground with chocks on the rear wheels, so I can roll it a bit forward right now. Gear oil didn't help. Clutch master and slave not operable, new slave, but no hose installed yet. That shouldn't affect the shift-ability though. It shifted okay on the stands, but it rolled heavy as a tank when we pushed it back into the garage recently.

Anyway, question about the pilot bearing... first sentence above :)

Thanks.

EDIT: Here's a link to discussion 3 months ago on my problem... Not trying to hijack this thread with my problem... it's just that the OPs problem seems like mine :)

 

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What are you getting at here asking about difficulty with the pilot bearing relative to whether the drive shaft spins?

The reason I asked, I am experiencing almost the same symptoms as the OP, and yes, I had trouble with the pilot bearing. Aaron @ DriftMotion set me straight... the input shaft was slightly bowed and had to be repaired with emery cloth to get it to fit. When I went to install the drive shat (a one-piece, aluminum) it would not slide on and I resorted to the BFH for a hit or two, then to a plastic dead-blow. After that, the trans only shifts 1 through 4. 5th and reverse are not available. My transmission has not been apart, recently, at least. It's all in the car now, installed engine and trans as one piece, and I was going to address this when I take it out before the final installation. (only put back in to custom make oil lines, and fit hard pipes to intercooler, etc. It comes out again, and then back in).

Someone suggested it was because there was no lubricant in the trans, so I added the appropriate stuff. Car is not running, and front wheels currently off the ground with chocks on the rear wheels, so I can roll it a bit forward right now. Gear oil didn't help. Clutch master and slave not operable, new slave, but no hose installed yet. That shouldn't affect the shift-ability though. It shifted okay on the stands, but it rolled heavy as a tank when we pushed it back into the garage recently.

Anyway, question about the pilot bearing... first sentence above :)

Thanks.

EDIT: Here's a link to discussion 3 months ago on my problem... Not trying to hijack this thread with my problem... it's just that the OPs problem seems like mine :)

Hey debrucer the front input shaft separates from the main and I figured maybe it could have been jammed and tweaked something. I would suggest with your car you roll the dice and wait till your car is running. Once yours is running and up on jackstands,row through some gears get oil throughout the trans.fifth and reverse are on same shift shaft,that’s why sometimes when it’s hard to get into reverse,you try fifth then to reverse
 

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I’m sorry it’s hard for me to really show how a lot o
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f it works as I’m working off two old pics off my Instagram. I wish I took more pics from this tranc build
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Debrucer you can see in this pic the lower shift shaft is for the fifth and reverse.if you look at the top pic you can kinda see how the shift mechanism I was referring to jeanybop? connects with all the shafts as there all installed at this point. The other rod in the tail shaft which connects to the end ball of the shifter has a tongue( so to speak) that inserts into it
 

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This is pic I posted earlier. If you can see this is actually three separate pieces which essentially operates two gears each. The top one gets engaged when you push your shift to the left cause it raises the tongue into it. Now when you push the shifter forward it moves the shaft forward engaging 1st gear or pulled back for 2nd. So obviously when you move shifter to the right you will be able to pick 5th and reverse. While the whole mechanism in the pic is essentially in neutral the shifter tongue sits between the one to engage 3rd and 4th
 

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this pic you can see a shaft sticking out with the two notch’s. This is what locks you shifter into 1,3,5 or 2,4,R with a bearing riding along the shaft.
Sorry guys if this is hard to understand. If I had a spare trans i could pull cases off and do a little vid which would be little easier to understand
 

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Wow, this thread is coming apart and not in a good way. The OP posted because they have a tranny issue, thinking its stuck in gear. 2jzturbo is going down a path as if the OP opened up the tranny and disassembled it. I do not see that and did not read that and we need the OP to clarify: Did you simply have a whole tranny and install it? Or did you open up the transmission case to do something inside the transmission?

I am now also seeing all manner of other issues. The first post says "It appears that the clutch is working" but now later the OP reveals that the actuating pin in the slave is not even touching the clutch arm, and they're not sure if the clutch arm is even installed correctly. So to the OP. Whether you mean to or not you are being misleading and you are all over the board here and not doing yourself any favors. Focus on a single issue at a time and get it resolved. You are also letting days and nearly a week elapse between posting in your own thread - which also sends other messages. Among them that you are unfocused and therefore not likely to be able to do any of the tasking suggested. It's causing the thread to move sideways instead of forward to an objective or conclusion.

I would like to suggest that you focus on getting the "stuck transmission" issue handled, then the clutch, then we'll figure out why the fuel is not pumping. First the transmission. Did you open up the transmission case and mess with the gears, or do you simply start with an intact transmission and NOT open the transmission?
 

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I am also lost in this thread.
What is the original question OP?
What still remains to be answered OP?
 
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