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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have done some rough street tuning on my setup and everything is running pretty good but I feel there is a lot of room for improvement. I would appreciate it if anyone is willing to share their timing maps with me so I can compare.

My setup is:
2JZGTE Stock Block
Precision 6765
Sard 800CC Injectors
Full 3 inch exhaust

 

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First off, your timing map is flat from 4500 to redline, you want to add timing as rpm goes up. Add 3 degrees at redline and interpolated across. Also at 17 psi you can run more than 13 degrees. I usually have 15 at peak torque and 18 at redline for a safe street car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah I know, this is my first attempt at tuning and I really want to learn more about it. From starting from scratch and how the car is driving now I feel like I am getting the gist of it, my afrs are spot on, and no kncok. Only thing I am really careful about is timing because that is where the most power is made and you are most likely to blow up the motor if set wrong.

Thanks for your comments and advice!
 

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Oh and 34 at idle ??
x2 I dont know what your Idle Ignition trims look like but 34-35 degrees of timing at idle is extremely aggressive. I would almost bet your exhaust manifold is getting extremely hot if not red at idle.
At 35 degrees you are making the plug ignite and make the combustion happen way past the optimal 12-15degrees ATDC. I would advise to run anywhere from 10-15degrees from 500rpm-1500 and ramp up the timing into the low-mid 30s in the crusing part till redline or peak torque if you know where that is on your motor.
Remember timing increases as RPM goes up because there is less time to make the combustion occur before the next cycle begins again. Timing should increase with RPM and decrease with Load.
Make sure you check plugs for anything noticeable. Knock sensors are ALMOST thrown out the equation the more you modify the engine so listen for obvious signs. Ultimately you should be doing this on a load bearing dyno with realtime tq readings its so much easier and safer.

paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
x2 I dont know what your Idle Ignition trims look like but 34-35 degrees of timing at idle is extremely aggressive. I would almost bet your exhaust manifold is getting extremely hot if not red at idle.
At 35 degrees you are making the plug ignite and make the combustion happen way past the optimal 12-15degrees ATDC. I would advise to run anywhere from 10-15degrees from 500rpm-1500 and ramp up the timing into the low-mid 30s in the crusing part till redline or peak torque if you know where that is on your motor.
Remember timing increases as RPM goes up because there is less time to make the combustion occur before the next cycle begins again. Timing should increase with RPM and decrease with Load.
Make sure you check plugs for anything noticeable. Knock sensors are ALMOST thrown out the equation the more you modify the engine so listen for obvious signs. Ultimately you should be doing this on a load bearing dyno with realtime tq readings its so much easier and safer.

paul
Got it! I did notice it running hotter at idle, good thing I didn't run it for too long. I will make those changes and I also need to run cooler plugs as well. I will post up my updated map when I get a chance to run it in my car and verify the changes.

I am looking forward to comparing with any of your maps so shoot me a PM if you are willing to share.

Thanks!
 

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x2 I dont know what your Idle Ignition trims look like but 34-35 degrees of timing at idle is extremely aggressive. I would almost bet your exhaust manifold is getting extremely hot if not red at idle.
At 35 degrees you are making the plug ignite and make the combustion happen way past the optimal 12-15degrees ATDC. I would advise to run anywhere from 10-15degrees from 500rpm-1500 and ramp up the timing into the low-mid 30s in the crusing part till redline or peak torque if you know where that is on your motor.
Remember timing increases as RPM goes up because there is less time to make the combustion occur before the next cycle begins again. Timing should increase with RPM and decrease with Load.
Make sure you check plugs for anything noticeable. Knock sensors are ALMOST thrown out the equation the more you modify the engine so listen for obvious signs. Ultimately you should be doing this on a load bearing dyno with realtime tq readings its so much easier and safer.

paul

You are mistaken, the ignition fires BTDC not after !! So at 35 degrees BTDC you are firing too early.
 

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First off, your timing map is flat from 4500 to redline, you want to add timing as rpm goes up. Add 3 degrees at redline and interpolated across. Also at 17 psi you can run more than 13 degrees. I usually have 15 at peak torque and 18 at redline for a safe street car.

Do you find with e85 or race gas that you can run more timing ramp from pk tq to redline?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have made a few changes to it. It is still pretty flat in some spots but I hope to get more fine tuning done on it this week, for now I am trying to get the general idea in motion.

 

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Timing seems pretty low at 17 psi. I'd like to see 17 peak timing ramp up from 15.5 around 5000 there. Depending on 93 octane+ and a good intercooler.
Just telling you what I would do - nothing more.

Even with that there would be more room on the table I'd say. A/F should be around 11.1 if you've got E10. 11.5 If you're running straight Gas.
 

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Another tip is to always look at the 3d map when making a timing map. You never want any sharp peaks or valleys. Every cell should smoothly transition from one to another. Use the interpolate function to smooth it out! It will run much smoother!
 

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that looks better. anouther thing is your redline is set to what. looks like 9k on that. you should take the stock motor to 7800 at max imo. you should be able to add more timing then that after the 5500 mark.
 

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that looks better. anouther thing is your redline is set to what. looks like 9k on that. you should take the stock motor to 7800 at max imo. you should be able to add more timing then that after the 5500 mark.
It's just where the breakpoints are set. Rev limiter is setup from another menu, at least on AEM Pro.

If the OP wants more tuning resolution and will never rev up to 9k, change the break points that the max rpm break point is 8000rpm.
 

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I find it kinda odd that everyone is giving ignition suggestions without asking if the dudes ever sync'd the igntion.. . .
+1
 
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