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Swapping Mk5 2JZ

15K views 88 replies 27 participants last post by  Shady 2jz 
#1 ·
Hi, I currently bought a mk5 supra and wanted to save some money for a 2jz swap, what mods do you recomend at ~900 hp. For a future build
 
#2 · (Edited)
Indeed, let's discuss. Perhaps we can have a quick lesson here, and contrast what is needed to make 900+whp with the B58 lol

You need:
2JZ-GTE (I'd recommend the series 1 as opposed to the VVTi but that's just me)
Single turbo manifold
Turbo and injectors/rail/pumps to support that power (confer with your local tuner)
Large intercooler and wastegates
Race gas or E85(if choosing the latter, make necessary changes to fuel parts above)
272 cams
Large intake manifold and throttle body mod
Titanium valves, springs and retainers
V160/1 transmission and all associated drivetrain parts
Upgraded rear differential(Torsen, TRD, OS Giken, etc.)
Upgraded cam gears
4" exhaust from turbo back
Standalone engine management (AEM, ProEFI, Megasquirt, etc.)
High quality electronic boost controller
Upgraded head gasket
Clutch to handle your TQ numbers (confer with your local tuner)

That's all you really need to make 900whp (torque numbers will depend on the mixture of stock rod strength and how quickly your turbo comes on)

If you wanted to increase the reliability, you could to ahead and do a small build with upgraded rods(torque) and pistons/rings(heat) and perhaps some head work. It's not necessary but would definitely increase fortitude and leave you with room to grow as well.

Take this list to a well respected and verified tuner, and compare it to what they say would actually be needed for a B58 to make just 70% of that power on a dyno dynamics.

Create a build thread here and keep us updated!
 
#4 ·
car swap. drive it til the warranty is up and sell, then purchase mk4.

jk. swapping the driveline in the mk5 is a fantastic idea imho

if your serious and want to do this, why aim for 900 ? I mean your pot committed so to speak. you spent a lot on the mk5. the swap is going to be intense and expensive so do it big right ?? .... im thinking:


 
#7 ·
For a stock block 2jz-gte with 900whp, I'd start with a 71mm+ modern turbo. Your peak power will probably happen closer to 7k rpm give or take, but ultimately this will keep your peak TQ down, and keep the stock rods happy. Afterwards, I would be looking into a pair of matching camshafts to the turbine you plan to run, and an intake manifold to free up the restrictions at that HP, and to have a nice powerband to match.

Personally, I like a Intake manifold that has been modified with a larger plenum, such as Titan/SP/PHR/RSP, ect, because it frees up some top end, but helps retain some bottom end TQ by keeping the factory long length lower runners. However if you like all that top-end, plan to run 12 injectors down the road, or having an option to run a big TB without adapters, or simply the looks of a short-runner FFIM, then there are fantastic options such as CPC/Hypertune/Greddy/Veilside(Unicorn), ect.

For electronics, it's a little early to say because of the MKV being a modern car, with modern BMW electronics, I wouldn't be surprised to expect some challenges from swapping an older motor into a newer car and keeping all the body electronics happy, if one were trying to build a street car. For instance, I'd probably start looking into a modern EMS that can run a PWM controlled high pressure Direct injected fuel pump, and DBW because the MKV is DBW from the factory, so you'd probably want to run a DBW throttle body, unless you wouldn't care to hack into the car to run a cable setup, which wouldn't really make sense, given the advantages of a properly setup DBW.

A couple of modern EMS that I can think of on top of my head would be AEM Infinity/Pro-EFI/Motec, ect, but it's also really important to factor in the availability of tuners that supports that EMS, otherwise it'll be an expensive paperweight.
 
#33 ·
I was quoted MSRP, $49990. That's not far off from good condition, low mileage MKIV's. As for the swap, the MKV isn't supposed to be a straight line superstar. Throwing a 900hp 2JZ setup in will kill the car IMO. Even stock turbo MKIVs don't get boost until mid range. Nostalgia isn't worth the cost nor the performance decrease. If you don't really care about that and just want to put a Yamah... Toyota engine back in the car, then go for the 2JZ swap.
 
#27 ·
No don't blow it up 1st. Sell the stock driveline as im sure it will bring some nice money in to fund the conversion. There will be mkv soon looking for replacement parts
 
#29 ·
It would probably be more cost effective to build the motor the MKV comes with. I think their are some people already pushing 700 hp with it and they don't have internals upgraded. I have to believe that upgraded internals and a few more months of these tuners striving for high horsepower that there will be a solution soon. While I love the 2JZ you'll spend a small fortune getting it to work properly in this car without any performance mods. When you add all the parts you need plus the cost of the motor and transmission you'll have dumped a retirement account into this thing. And for that amount of money you could buy a whole host of fast cars.
 
#31 ·
Maybe wait till some shop comes out with a "swap kit"
You'll spend an ass ton getting the 2j to work, that's before getting any real power out of it.

You could always hit up Daigo Saito and ask how his drift team did it lol
 
#41 ·
That's the dry weight of the engine. Wet it's around 370.

I was always curious as to why the GTR engine is so heavy. That 3800lb curb weight with all that aluminum and carbon composite in the frame is crazy. Even more ridiculous is how competitive it still is at that weight all these years later
I think they've gotten heavier over the years too, and yet the lap times keep doing down. Granted they have thrown about 5-7% more power at it since its initial release.
 
#51 ·
As weight increases, so does stress, both with cars and in the dating world. :p

In seriousness though, friction = traction... weight is a factor, but far from the only factor. I'll take a lighter car over a heavier car literally every single time, in every single road condition.
 
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