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i switched to mobile 1 and had nothing but problems. it burned a lot of oil when previously burned hardley none and had the camshaft seals blow. i replaced them and they blew again. the motor had a lot of miles on it so i replaced it with one that had 44k. ive been running casterol synthetic blend. i have had no problems at all. the last oil change 2k ago i changed to casterol syntech a full synthic oil. now its burning oil again. does anyone else have any problems with full synthics? or am i just unlucky?
 

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Beats and Rhythm
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2,732 Posts
stay away from synthetic on old motors.....the tolerances are not made for such thin oils...even though a 20W50 synthetic appears to be as thick, it still is thinner than a true dyno oil ( which i run).....its late...i cant spell or put things together right, but it think you get the point :)

Like i said, our litteral tolerances inside our motors are too wide for synthetic....go dyno oil and never look back...plus its cheaper :wtflol:

thats just what i have come to a conclusion of.
 

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yea its not really good to switch an old engine like that. even if you had no oil leaks before the switch you will afterwards almost guarnteed.if you change the oil really often like i do (1500-2000miles) there is no need to go synthetic anyway.
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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Tolerances are too wide? That's totally BS man.

The fact is you can run 20/50 full synthetic oil year round in the Supra and have NO problems. Do not run that 5/30 shit. It is made for new cars with tight tolerances, but still is better oil than most mineral based ones availabe.

It's all about the carbon chain length. Too long and it builds up sludge. Too short, and it boils off and vaporizes too fast. The right sized ones don't break down, don't gum up, and just work well for a very long time. (Thus the reason you can run longer between oil changes.)

With the right filters, you can run a full synthetic oil like Mobil One 20/50 for 15k or more between oil changes. And it will keep your engine wear to a minimum.
 

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Beats and Rhythm
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adjuster said:
Tolerances are too wide? That's totally BS man.

I was aiming at the bearing clearances and oil pressure issues of the 7m motors in general. I was hoping to get the point across about going to a thinner weight oil in synthetic form...... Like you said:

Do not run that 5/30 shit. It is made for new cars with tight tolerances, but still is better oil than most mineral based ones availabe.

.........what was that about BS? :rolleyes:


-Jonathan
 

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Dr. Jeff Lange
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I run synthetic in all of my vehicles, and never had a problem ever, even with high milage engines. If you do have problems with it, I'm guessing it's just causing another already existing problem to be amplified.
 

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Synthetic oil is superior in every way except cost.

Problems arise when synth is used on old motors with hardened seals. Over time, dyno oil sludge begins to function as the glue that keeps an old motor sealed up (especially if using havoline or penzoil ---please, send me the libel suit). Synth will soften and remove these buildups resulting in a puddle in the driveway.

Do it right, switch at less than 10K or replace the seals before hand.

M1 had gone to great lengths to make its oil more agreeable in high mileage circumstances, but still proceed with caution.
 

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Dr. Jeff Lange
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I've never actually had synthetic oil cause a leak in a high milage vehicle either, most of the time that doesn't happen, but I suppose it could.
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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i hate synth.
Always have.

Always heard of everyone burning oil and such and I never had a prob on my cars that I ran reg Dino oil on and I beat my cars prob alot harder then most do.

I have a headache with my Supra that runs synth. I only kept it in becuase thats what the prev owner ran. $50 oil changes suck , as well as filling the oil all the time when it burns up. And I know it doesnt leak that much to make the difference it does. I run 10w30 Mobil one and hate it
Im tempted to switch back to Dino and see if that helps. But I heard it is bad to switch back once synth? Is that true?
 

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Beats and Rhythm
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yes switching FROM dino oil to synthetic is/can be alright given the conditino of your oil seals...but switching from synthetic to dino oil is a no no.....


so, you get your new valve stem oil seals in, get new mains....and drop in the synthetic....though 20w50 synthetic is HARD to get besides ordering Amsoil....

-Jonathan
 

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Big HP = Big Downtime
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Synthetic oils have detergents that clean out your motor which can cause leaks.

I just switched to 10w-40 royal purlple Full Synthetic and I have no issues as of yet.

10-40 is what the factory manual states you should use!!!
 

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I don't want an MK4!
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I switched to Mobil 1 on Friday. Put over 1000 miles on the car over the weekend including numerous 1/4 mile passes.

No leaks before/no leaks after.

Did not appear to burn any either.

I am running 10W-30.

I plan on extending my oil change intervals to 5000 miles so the cost won't be significantly higher as I was changing at 3000 intervals before that.

Dan
 

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i had issues when a switched to synthetic oil. i started burning quite a bit more than i had previously been burning, But now that I have a fresh rebuilt motor i'm going to run full synthetic from the beginning. 10w-40 or 10w-30 is what the manual calls for.
 

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Destroyer of Turbos
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switched 2 supras over to full synth and have had no problems. one had ~78k other had ~75k
 

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DDDDUUUUUBBBBBZZZZZZZZ
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As I've said before a million times, synthetic is fine if your motor is in good shape, regardless of mileage. Not a fan of mobil 1 personally, I prefer redline. I run it in all my cars, 15k intervals, and have no problems at all. It actually burns less than conventional. Mobil 1 concentrates too much on having a high detergency, that the high temperature stability and compatibility with older engines don't seem to be as good.
 
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I've been raised on valvoine, I havent heard anyone talk about it so what do you people think about this?
 

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Back to boosting!
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itr206 said:
i hate synth.
Always have.

Always heard of everyone burning oil and such and I never had a prob on my cars that I ran reg Dino oil on and I beat my cars prob alot harder then most do.

I have a headache with my Supra that runs synth. I only kept it in becuase thats what the prev owner ran. $50 oil changes suck , as well as filling the oil all the time when it burns up. And I know it doesnt leak that much to make the difference it does. I run 10w30 Mobil one and hate it
Im tempted to switch back to Dino and see if that helps. But I heard it is bad to switch back once synth? Is that true?
Uhh, why don't you go to 15w50? That's what I put in the other day switching from 10w30 dino crud and my oil press is nice and high.... and it's a $25 change...
 

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I switched over to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15W50 shortly after buying the car with just under 140,000 miles on it. Now at 150,000 miles, I still haven't had any problems.
 
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