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2j coming soon
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My motor is rebuilt and i was wondering if its okay to put a T88 in it. I know it will spool slower since the turbo is bigger but My goal is to have a high horsepower top end mk3.FLUBYUX2 I know that you have a T88 in your mk3 and I would like it if you would give me an advice.Im' planning to do this later on but I would like to know if its a good idea for my goal. I know i would have to go for bigger injectors afm, afpr and a standalone but i would like to listen to you SF guys for your'e opinion. It is greatly appreciated. My current modes are 3'' downpipe , elbow catback, mhg, arps,block bored to .60 (yes .60!) 6 pluck clutch and thats about it.I know i need alot more work to reach high horses with a T88 but I don't want to keep changing turbos till I have a well built motor to put the T88 i want, thats why I would like to know If it will be alright to buy the T88 now and have it on. I know I will need new oil lines an good ic piping an a good Ic too.PlEASE GIVE ME A GOOD ADVICE and TRY TOO HELP ME IN MY GOAL. YOUR ADVICE Would BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.



-JOSE
 

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function > form
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InvisibleMonkey said:
his car hasn't run ever in the time he's owned it, but i'm sure he can help
lol

It seems to me that an AFM on a T88 is rather... restrictive. I don't know how much flow the lex afm can measure, but I'm sure it'll be topped out by the airflow capabilities of a T88. You should really think about a smaller turbo for now.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
ive never driven my car. ive been building cars for everyone else this entire time ive owned my car.

Im only using the T88 because i picked it up for $500 and ive vowed to myself to see it on my car. once i run it, ill probably sell it in favor either a more efficient 76mm inducer turbo or real 88mm inducer turbo.

honestly, if you were going to spend $1200 on a turbo, i wouldnt recommend the T88. its only a 76mm wheel and there are turbos sporting the same size wheel with better efficiency and spool characteristics.

but, you will need at least 720cc injectors to run this turbo at 20psi. youll need at least 1000cc injectors to get this turbo close to its potential. i personally have seen this turbo put down 638rwhp at 19psi on pump and meth injection. so unless you want to run the turbo at a really low boost level (And be inefficient), youll need to do the fuel system before you can run the big turbo. the GReddy T88H has proven to make over 1000rwhp. the titan cars used to run the same turbo. the T88 is what propelled the fastest all-boost DSM to its record settng speeds.

if you are willing to "settle" for 900rwhp, i would highly recommend an SP71GTQ-HO. it spools faster than a T88 and has close to the same power potential. it also has a better efficiency range. ive personally installed this turbo on an MKIV that will run door-to-door w/ a 12.2 second MKIV and only use half-throttle.

The T88H is an old, dinosaur of a turbo. its big, its laggy, its inefficient and there are better turbos out there for the money... unless you get it dirt cheap like i did. its a turbo that time forgot... for a good reason. i just have it because i want to use it... and vice versa.

what else do you need to know?
 

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2j coming soon
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First of all thank you for helping me outflubyux2, I am getting it for cheap like $400 and I was wondering if you could give me an idea on what type of fuel setup i should use and do you think I'll be able to run good with a good fuel setup? Any other advice on this setup would help. I am trying to do this little by little. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mk3 brent before I answer your question I have to say that I admire your work and your car I think you have a well built mk3. I like the T88 because it's a big turbo that barely no one uses no more and I would like to be one of those few people that have it . I could get it for a cheap price also.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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just keep in mind WHY the T88's are cheap. no one wants them and there are alot of turbos out there that do the same job, but better.

with that said...

if you plan to maximize the potential of this turbo, you will need dual intank walbro GSS341 fuel pumps. convert the stock fuel line to a -6 where it comes into the engine bay. then run a completely new -6 fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine bay. get a custom dual-feed fuel rail and connect these 2 -6 fuel lines. then use a center return line from the fuel rail, -6 sized. connect it to an aeromotive AFPR. then use a hose barb on the AFPR to connect it to the factory fuel return line. you will want to get MSD 96lb/hr injectors. they will support 1000rwhp. i would suggest adding methanol injection too. it can supplement the fuel supply and boost the octane ratng when just using pump gas.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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$160 two Walbro GSS341
$700 six MSD 96lb/hr injectors
$125 one Aeromotive A1000 regulator
$20 one C/H brand liquid filled fuel pressure guage; 0-100psi
$100-$400 custom dual feed fuel rail
$100 -6 stock fuel line conversion
$200 -6 second fuel line from fuel tank to rail, with Earl's filter
$30 12v fuel pump wiring supplies; relays, wire, connectors, solder, etc

Total potential cost of 1000rwhp fuel system; $1735. prices will vary from new to used parts and custom made parts versus off-the-shelf retail parts (fuel rail, fuel line kit, etc)
 

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2j coming soon
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks a million. Do you think th long tube runner manifold on ebay would work for now ?
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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im not 100% sure. thats what i bought for my car. the manifold was originally designed by GReddy for the T78 kit. ill have to test fit everything on my car before i can tell you for sure. but i do know that the DP will be a tight fit cuz the turbo sits back so far. the WG placment might also hit the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks alot let me know. Plus do you think the car you run good after a good dyno tune with stock ecu or do i have to rush to get a stande alone. Again thank you your helping me alot
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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i wouldnt try to push more than 500rwhp w/ a stock ecu. if you plan to run more than 18psi on that turbo, youll want to get a standalone. $1550 for AEM, 5bar map, GM IAT will be all you need. plus, you can get a wide band o2 sensor for about $200. PLX devices just came out w/ a budget setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks I was thinking that when i have to make a decision for a standalone I think ill go microtech were I'm at alot of people mess with it and get incredible power with it and not only that it basically controls every important part in your set up and makes it run at is best. I know you problably have heard about it.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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alot of people w/ FC's run microtech's. i prefer the AEM though... after using it, i like the interface alot. the availability of base maps and ease of creating new base maps is definitly a plus. if you can get people who have base maps for the 7M, youre in luck.
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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flubyux2 said:
i wouldnt try to push more than 500rwhp w/ a stock ecu. if you plan to run more than 18psi on that turbo, youll want to get a standalone. $1550 for AEM, 5bar map, GM IAT will be all you need. plus, you can get a wide band o2 sensor for about $200. PLX devices just came out w/ a budget setup.
By 500 do you mean 500 on a karman sensor set up?

Don't forget about Neely and the Final Stage guys, putting well into the 700's with a VPC, and that's dinosaur equipment too.

IMHO 500hp/tq is doable with the stock electronics.
Speed density conversions are a power gain in themselves.
I can't find the specific article, but I believe it was somewhere between 20-30 hp just from going speed density.

I think Trent said it.
 

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I picked up about 27whp going to a VPC & 550's at the same boost level I was running on the karmann/440's previously. Running more boost of course made even more power.

How'd you get another .60 inch of bore diameter? You must mean .060 over.

Honestly, I think you have the number "T88" stuck in your head and it sounds cool.
Since you're going to have to spend at least $4-5k just to set up the rest of the drivetrain and fuel system and engine management, etc to support a turbo like that (a lot more if you built the head on a 7M to actually rev high enough to take full advantage of a turbo like a T88), you might as well spend the $300-400 more to get a more suitable turbo.

The best bet is to pick a power level and shoot for that. Since you're only 16 I'd recommend doing everything you can to get some rides in high power cars and see how much power you really want. There's no shame in shooting low - I have about 400whp on tap and I love my car - I walk C5 Z06's on the street and my engine bay looks almost stock to the untrained eye :)
Theres a lot more to how fun a car is to drive than how much power its making.
My next step will be for around 550-600whp, because having a fun, responsive powerband is a hell of a lot more fun for me than having some 5k rpm spooling roll-on monster that wins dyno competitions and highway races and not much else. Of course, that's just my humble opinion.
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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/\ agreed.

People always ask me why I don't turn up the boost.
But I say that 10psi feels just fine on the street, and I haven't lost a race yet.
Only 320 ft/lbs.

Maybe when I get bored of it, I'll go for 15psi.... so on and so forth.
 
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