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Targa leaking really suck but you guys drive yours in the rain? Yikes!
don't have a huge choice in seattle, lol.

Some Supra owners drive in dry weather only. thats just fine but I don't think there is any harm in driving in the rain. at least it hasn't done jack to my paint job on the past 3 years, and my inside doesn't leak, but to each his own, ya know.
 

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I have just performed the repair and want to share the pictures. Pretty much followed the initial directions in the post, and it seems to have worked. My hypothesis is that the seals degrade/melt/fall apart over time and the holes to the plastic drain tube become obstructed. Then, the water has no where to go but up and over the gasket, back down the gasket, and into the car. The pictures will tell all. I am going to get a new gasket to be safe, but I think the problem is fixed for now. Water drains down the tube and not into the car. Whoever wants to claim responsibility for the post (Sean, blksupra, whoever) I can email them to you if you like. Thanks...Tony
 

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It seems as if someone with a vested interest shut the original poster up ... so definitely post pictures and the info.


I have just performed the repair and want to share the pictures. Pretty much followed the initial directions in the post, and it seems to have worked. My hypothesis is that the seals degrade/melt/fall apart over time and the holes to the plastic drain tube become obstructed. Then, the water has no where to go but up and over the gasket, back down the gasket, and into the car. The pictures will tell all. I am going to get a new gasket to be safe, but I think the problem is fixed for now. Water drains down the tube and not into the car. Whoever wants to claim responsibility for the post (Sean, blksupra, whoever) I can email them to you if you like. Thanks...Tony
 

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My targa is leaking...but I think mines is a Targa weather stripping problem. It seems to be leaking where the targa and the a pillar meet. And its dripping down onto my passenger seat.
 

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pictures of repair

Ok, here was my culprit. First, a quick anatomy of the seal system: The drain holes in the seal are semi-circular and there looks to be three of them. The primary drain hole is circular and sits kind of between the two mounting studs. The other two holes are ovular and circular, moving towards the outside of the seal respectively. The drain is the flat plastic piece secured to the car with two Phillips screws that secures to the clear drain tube running into the car. The little drain holes in the seal are supposed to mate up to the drain in the car and allow proper flow of water down the tube. My targa seal collapsed with heat, age, elements, etc. and became disfigured, which obstructed the water, causing it to come over the top of the seal and into the car. Look in the attached picture and see how the holes are goobered up.
 

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picture problem

OK, I might be doing something wrong, but the forum won't let me upload any pictures. I tried to sort it out by compressing the pictures and using the test area, but no joy. If a moderator chimes in and help outs, I'll get the pictures posted. Otherwise, please feel free to PM me and I will get the pics to you directly. Thanks! Tony
 

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OK, I might be doing something wrong, but the forum won't let me upload any pictures. I tried to sort it out by compressing the pictures and using the test area, but no joy. If a moderator chimes in and help outs, I'll get the pictures posted. Otherwise, please feel free to PM me and I will get the pics to you directly. Thanks! Tony
The pics likely need to be hosted elsewhere. We are going to try the fix today and I was hoping for some pics. If you send to me, I will host and update in the thread, or send you the online link to use for 'em... [email protected]

...or, if we get to it early enuff today, will take some pics and post 'em up.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
It seems as if someone with a vested interest shut the original poster up ... so definitely post pictures and the info.
???

I'm still around....just dont read this website as much as I used to years ago. I'll help if anyone has any questions. It just sucks that I didnt have a camera way back when I was doing this to my car.

sean
 

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Got the address man....traveling today and tomorrow, I will email you the pics at the earliest convenient time. Thanks for your help! Tony
 

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Found the same results as vtony water was leaking onto the seat and i took the car apart to preform the writeup/diagnose the problem. The seal has collapsed on the passenger side. While i removing the bolts securing the seal i found that plate was starting to break down within the gasket also causing debris to also tear a small hole within the seal. The writeup did however slow the leak on the passenger side and fixed the drivers side. Worth a shot but at least i found i do need a new seal and will be heading to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Found the same results as vtony water was leaking onto the seat and i took the car apart to preform the writeup/diagnose the problem. The seal has collapsed on the passenger side. While i removing the bolts securing the seal i found that plate was starting to break down within the gasket also causing debris to also tear a small hole within the seal. The writeup did however slow the leak on the passenger side and fixed the drivers side. Worth a shot but at least i found i do need a new seal and will be heading to the dealer.
Just remember that a new seal doesnt cure the leaks...in fact, sometimes causes a worse leak if the details in this write-up arent addressed (and mainly when they aren't positioned JUST RIGHT). Get a new one since you need it, just make sure to add adhesive per this thread because I doubt the new seals have any more adhesive on them than they get from the assembly line. Considering it's a hole in the roof (targa), it's a great design...just need to perfect the fitment and adhesive issues. Unfortunately, we can't just slap on a new seal and think it's all done right then and there.
 

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Preparations to repair the seal

To refresh yourself, please see my above post regarding how the seal was goobered up. What I did was to peel some dynamat adhesive backing away from it's foil, and roll it into little tubular looking lengths. See attached thumbnails. I will apply these rolled up beauties to the degraded parts of the seal. See the next post for that.
 

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Repairs to the seal

Prior to initiating the repair to the seal, make sure that you prep it with a non-petroleum based cleaner to get rid of the old sticky, dirty, and destroyed parts of the seal. I used Simple Green. In the attached thumbnail, I formed the rolled dynamat around the holes in the seal that were originally designed to direct the water down the drain hole and out of car via the tube. The purpose of the rolled dynamat is to restore the integrity of this channel. Like the OP stated, it is important not to clog the drain holes with the dynamat, as this will impede the water from draining and compound the issue. Be patient and thorough when forming the dynamat. It will want to stick to your fingers and the incorrect parts of the seal at times. Just keep working at it. If the dynamat becomes too saturated with your finger oils or contaminates like the old seal remains, dirt, bug guts, or any other crap, throw that piece away and use another. Use some rubber gloves to reduce the likeliness of the dynamat fighting you.
 

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Sealing the studs

You will also want to reinforce the seal around the mounting studs. Be careful not to use too much dynamat or the seal may be difficult to reinstall. The amount shown in my pictures may be borderline too much. I recommend slightly less for your application. Again, make sure that the seal is cleaned around the posts and not jacked up with bits of old seal, goo, or bug guts. It will only be harder to reinstall the seal with the extra material that you are introducing. You can use an exacto or snips to trim away the old seal bits if needed.
 

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Preparations to seal the drain hole

Here is a picture of the drain hole prior to applying the dynamat. Clean the area around the drain holes of all debris, grime, and age related funk. This is where your newly repaired seal will mate up with the car, hopefully properly directing the flow of water from the targa through the hole and into the tube. I attached a picture of the drain tube for reference. You might want to inspect it for degradation.
 

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Sealing the drain holes

Once your preparations are complete, apply the dynamat to the drain hole area as shown. Don't use too much based on aforementioned reasoning. I think I could have done with less, use that as a consideration for your application.
 

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Sealing the channel

Bear with me on this one, the picture didn't come out too great. Ambient light and too many frosty barley pops impeded proper picture snapping. With the seal removed from the car still, stand above the A-pillar and look down at it. Take note of the aluminum looking channel that serves as the system that affixes the seal to the car. In the attached thumbnail, I laid a thin strip of dynamat to the top of the channel. To aid in seeing the application, I tried to point at it with my metal pick. After you apply this strip, you are done with the dynamat and ready for reassembly.
 

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Reassembly

You should be ready to put it back together now. There are a couple little plastic trim screws that hold the seal to the car at the terminus on each side. It helps to place these screws in the seal prior to reinstalling it on the car. Use a dull implement to guide the seal back into it's channel along each side of the A-pillar. At the top of the car, when the seal mates up with the drain hole, take extra precaution in lining everything up. You don't want the dynamat on the seal and the drain hole to bunch up and block the hole. Tighten the four nuts onto the studs snugly, but not excessively. Replace all the trim, wind-deflector, and sun shades. Put the targa back on and test with running water from a hose. Good luck!
 
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