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Discussion Starter #1
Many of you may have read some posts I had submitted awhile back on my car and it's "lack of power".

At the time I dynoed I made ONLY 327-352 corrected RWHP on 5 runs on a dynojet at 70 degrees and 300ft. elevation.

Needless to say I had the regular BPU+ mods and was VERY dissapointed in the results. I changed the plugs, used race gas, tuned the car up to no avail.

Finally I decided it was time to use my extended warranty which I purchased 1 year prior in case something like this was to happen.

After tearing the motor down I found the following problems:

1. Low compression, 60-70 psi in 2 cyl. and 130-135 in the other 4
2. Valve seals were leaking oil
3. 2nd turbo was leaking oil badly
4. Cracked water pump

I just heard back from the warrannty company today and they sent out an inspector to "inspect" my car. In order for them to even look at the car they insisted I HAD to break the car down to uncover the root cause/failure. I did this with some concern but now my concern is becoming a reality.

In the warranty the text reads "a break down occurs when a working part (non-wear item (i.e., clutch, brakes, etc) is no longer functioning within the manufactures minimum tolerances"

Well folks I checked with toyota and minimum compression is 128-130 psi. Normal compression in the Supra's is 156 psi. It is obvious to me we have a break down on hand.

I argued 1 hour with the warrany shop explaining that the above logic illustrated they were legally bound by the warranty to fix the low compression.

I am on the verge of getting a lawyer to launch a full assult ;-) on these MF'ers!

My question to the board is:

1. What is your recommendation and do you think I have a legal case?
2. Where should I get literature illustrating the 128 psi minimum OEM tolerance? Toyota service manuals?

******* BEWARE OF YOUR EXTENDED WARRANTY PROVIDERS AS THEY WILL DO ANY AND EVERYTHING TO MINIMIZE CLAIMS WHETHER OR NOT THEY ARE ABIDING BY THE SERVICE CONTRACT **********

Thank you very much my Supra brothers......
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One thing to note...my milage is only 52K.
 

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The Toyota service manuals give the limits of compression: 156 or higher, no more than 14 psi difference from high to low, no lower than 128.

Fail any of the above and the manual recomends a rebuild. I would be glad to fax you the relevant pages, send me an e-mail.

What you are running into is the reason so few extended warranties are worth paying for.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Chip,

Thanks so much. My e-mail address is [email protected]

THIS warranty is a scam.

I did have decent luck with a $3700 repair on my Madza 93 RX7 bad turbos a $3500 repair on the same RX7: blown rotor and a $800 repair on a 93 Mazda Protege LX, and a $1700 repair on an 94 MX-6....come to think of it my cars have been lemons...all have been used at purchase...maybe I should by a new car but Toyota doesn't sell a Supra anymore!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What would be the most likely part(s) that need to be fixed assuming the pistons and rods are fine...no scorching or overheating.

Piston Rings and valve seals? Valve adjustment?
 

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Originally posted by Turk:
<STRONG>What would be the most likely part(s) that need to be fixed assuming the pistons and rods are fine...no scorching or overheating.

Piston Rings and valve seals? Valve adjustment?</STRONG>
Before you go any further have a leak down test done. This will pinpoint where the problem is far better than a simple compression test.

When they leak the motor the cylinder being tested is brought to top dead center (all valves closed on the compression stroke), a fitting is installed in place of the spark plug and pressurized air is introduced to the cylinder. There is a gauge (or two) on the hose leading to the fitting that monitors the flow of air into the cylinder. If everything is perfect no air leaks past the rings or valves, or into the water jacket via a bad head gasket.

If the rings are bad you will hear air escaping through the oil fill hole in the valve cover, if the valves are bad you will hear leaking in either the intake manifold (remove the air hose from the throttle body) or out the exhaust. A bad head gasket will show up as bubbles forming in the radiator.

If you are lucky all you will find are leaky valves, meaning a cylinder head rebuild.
 
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