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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This tech article deals with how to remove the whole EGR system and install both block off plates. The single EGR block off has already been covered in the single EGR block off tech article. In my first attempt I was able to remove the whole EGR system and install both block off plates in about an hour. This worked on my 93 6spd - I assume it will work on other years, but I haven't tried. Also note that I took the pictures after I was done - so the EGR is already removed in the pics.

Step 1: Assemble the parts and tools
Parts needed to remove the EGR system:
  • EGR block off plates (available from PHR, HPF, Mohd, etc)
  • 10K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor (available at Radio Shack, etc)
  • Electrical tape
  • 2 Vacuum caps
Tools needed to remove the lower of the 2 bolts on the lower EGR pipe:
  • 12mm deep well socket (preferably 6-point)
  • 2 - 6" extensions
  • 2 - 3" extensions
  • universal joint
  • ratchet
Tools needed to remove the upper of the 2 bolts on the lower EGR pipe:
  • 12mm ratcheting box end wrench
Tools needed to remove the nuts and studs on the upper EGR pipe:
  • 12mm ratcheting box end wrench
  • 5mm socket and ratchet
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Step 2: Assemble the ratchet and extensions

Assemble two separate pieces in this order:
Piece 1: 12mm deep socket + 6" extension + universal joint + 3" extension
Piece 2: 6" extension + 3" extension + ratchet


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step 3: Find the lower EGR bolts

Reach your right arm next to the intake manifold behind the oil dipstick. Run your hand along the EGR pipe to where it meets the block. It may be a tight squeeze, but you should be able to reach the block and the two bolts that need to be removed. Familiarize yourself with the area by touch as it will make the next steps easier.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Step 4: Attach the socket section (piece 1) to the lower bolt

Reach your right arm the same as in step 3 except with piece 1 in your hand. Feel where the lower bolt is with your hand and then slide the socket onto the bolt. Once the socket is on the bolt, slide your other hand down to hold the universal joint and pull your right arm out.


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Step 5: Attach the ratchet section (piece 2) to the socket section (piece 1)

Attach the ratchet with extensions to the exposed extension from step 3. It is hard to turn a universal joint at a 90 degree angle, so try to lean the ratchet as far to the driver side as possible. From here just remove the lower bolt.


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Step 6: Remove the upper bolt on the lower EGR pipe

The EGR pipe itself gets in the way of the upper bolt if attempted in the same way as the lower bolt. It is easier to reach the upper bolt from directly above. A regular 12mm box end wrench will work, but it will take a while. The ratcheting box end wrench makes life a lot easier and can be bought from Sears for less than $10. Make sure once both bolts are removed that you keep the gasket.

If you have trouble with the wrench and want to use the ratchet combo like with the lower bolt - you will need another universal joint. Assemble the piece 1 in this order: 12mm deep socket + universal joint + 6" extension + universal joint + 3" extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Step 7: Remove the nuts on the upper EGR

Remove the two nuts at the back of the intake manifold either with the 12mm box end wrench or with a 12mm socket and ratchet.
Next remove the studs with a 5mm socket and ratchet.
As with the lower one - make sure you keep the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Step 8: Remove the EGR system

Disconnect and unbolt the EGR actuator from the top of the intake manifold.
Disconnect the EGR temperature sensor.
Remove the EGR system with pipe and all the hoses connecting to it.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Step 9: Install the lower block plate

Use the lower gasket you kept from step 6 and install the lower block off plate.
The two bolts can be installed the same way they were removed.


 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Step 10: Install the upper block plate

Use the upper gasket you kept from step 7 and install the upper block off plate. The two studs and nuts can be installed the same way they were removed (or you can use bolts instead of the studs and nuts).


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Step 11: Finishing up

You should end up with two open vacuum ports, these need to be capped with the vacuum caps (optionally zip-tie the caps tightly in place).
Put the 10K Ohm resistor in the temp sensor socket and tape it in place.


 

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KICK ASS...nice writeup bud. :)

This is definitely Supra FAQ section material...I'll move it there once enough people have seen it here.

Steve T.
 

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Bump: make this a sticky in FAQ!
 

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Steve Theodore said:
KICK ASS...nice writeup bud. :)

This is definitely Supra FAQ section material...I'll move it there once enough people have seen it here.

Steve T.
already done ;)
 

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Thanks for this write up! I just installed the plates this evening and this write up proved invaluable. We had a harder time though because of some of my other aftermarket parts (Titan fuel sys. mainly). With the Titan fuel rail it gets in the way a little more than the stock rail. So it just requires a litte change in the type of extensions you use to remove the lower bolt for the lower part of the pipe. After that its all down hill!
 

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93mkiv THANK YOU.. this is an excellent write up and should def. become a sticky in the FAQ section. The detail that you wrote with and the pictures make this write up second to none, I wish more guys would take the time to snap pictures and do a write up on mods that they do, it really helps out alot of the guys here at SF. Thanks again!
 
G

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This is a GREAT write-up, and should also be mailed to MKIV.com, as most of us use that as an installation and DIY bible for our Supras. Q though, once this is done, we'll throw a code on the ecu right? How can we keep that code from coming up, any way to fool the ecu?
 

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Can you tell me what is the Gain with this mod?

Thanks
 

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Lower temps in cylinder #5 and #6 due to the non-recirculation.

These are the hottest two cylinders in the 2JZ engine. Some HP, but mainly safety precaution and one less area for boost leaks.


DP
 
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