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Its a long shot but have you checked the Torque Converter bolts to see if they backed out and are hitting the trans housing?
If not, remove the rubber cover on the housing and look inside. Spin the motor and check to see if any of the bolts have backed out.
Good luck!
 

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I don't know Gonzy - but you've done the right thing to come on here and ask for help.

I say this in all humbleness: find a different source for information on this stuff. Rebuilding your engine will not mean it'll happen again. Ever. 20w-50 is not the oil to run in this car. Ever.

You didn't do anything wrong.

I run 5w-30, 0w-30, 10w-30. My race car has 5w-40 but only because it's engine was built to be run on 40 to 50.

As for the sound... God that sound eerily like when I accidentally bent the oil filler plate. Open the oil filler cap, look inside there's a plate there. Pull it up if it is bent in any way downward.

I doubt this is the actual issue but it would be a great save if it was just that silly metal plate.

I've had stuck valves/buckets, and done some other damage over the years. I've put 213,000 miles on my first 97, and about 500,000 miles on MKIVs (sorry fellas).

Your engine is absolutely able to be rebuilt and saved. Stop. Take a deep breath. You got this. It isn't over. Don't buy another engine.

Come join my group and ill be happy to get you approved and many in the community can speak to your situation on a less "screen names" approach.

The Original MKIV JZA80 Supra Owners Group. Look us up on Facebook and go to group info and find admins and my name, Jason Leonard, and message me. I'll get you in the group. The forums seem to be coming alive again. But in the meantime we have 2000+ actual Supra Owners there. And only Supra Owners.
 

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Spin bearing on rod. Just had this on new build. After 4th pull on dyno started a knock after pulling 890WHP. On teardown tang on rod bearing spin on number 3.
 

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Yea Englishtown got shut down sadly. I've been told mixed things, one side says you need to use the recommended oil weight from the manufacturer otherwise you'll break something. On the other hand It does make sense that these are old engines and a heavier weight is required as things wear down. My engine is non-VVTi so oil weight shouldn't matter as much.

I'll stop in to check out Cars and Coffee as well. I just need a recommendation to a good machinist who will know what to do with my engine.
If it didn't starve of oil, then it won't wear down. The lower the first number, the faster the flow rate on cold start up. 0w-30 FTW. Also helps with fuel economy, not that we care that much about it.
 

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Spin bearing on rod. Just had this on new build. After 4th pull on dyno started a knock after pulling 890WHP. On teardown tang on rod bearing spin on number 3.
Hey Mike! ?
 

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I have 215,381 mies on the car.


I haven't done anything with it yet, waiting on a word from Gonzy.
Damn bro it sounds bad! I've heard that same noise on my buddy's car and the motor was toast. Over 200K miles? How long have you owned the car? Just wondering what kind of care the person that had it before you did to the car. Good luck man!
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I don't know Gonzy - but you've done the right thing to come on here and ask for help.

I say this in all humbleness: find a different source for information on this stuff. Rebuilding your engine will not mean it'll happen again. Ever. 20w-50 is not the oil to run in this car. Ever.

You didn't do anything wrong.

I run 5w-30, 0w-30, 10w-30. My race car has 5w-40 but only because it's engine was built to be run on 40 to 50.

As for the sound... God that sound eerily like when I accidentally bent the oil filler plate. Open the oil filler cap, look inside there's a plate there. Pull it up if it is bent in any way downward.

I doubt this is the actual issue but it would be a great save if it was just that silly metal plate.

I've had stuck valves/buckets, and done some other damage over the years. I've put 213,000 miles on my first 97, and about 500,000 miles on MKIVs (sorry fellas).

Your engine is absolutely able to be rebuilt and saved. Stop. Take a deep breath. You got this. It isn't over. Don't buy another engine.

Come join my group and ill be happy to get you approved and many in the community can speak to your situation on a less "screen names" approach.

The Original MKIV JZA80 Supra Owners Group. Look us up on Facebook and go to group info and find admins and my name, Jason Leonard, and message me. I'll get you in the group. The forums seem to be coming alive again. But in the meantime we have 2000+ actual Supra Owners there. And only Supra Owners.
Thank you for all your support, the more I research the more I see you are correct.

I checked the oil filler but everything looked normal:

249809


249808


249805


I requested joining you group, I don't spend much time on FaceBook but thank you for including me.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Damn bro it sounds bad! I've heard that same noise on my buddy's car and the motor was toast. Over 200K miles? How long have you owned the car? Just wondering what kind of care the person that had it before you did to the car. Good luck man!
Since 2010.

Not sure but it defiantly had a strange lag and then suddenly surged at about 3000 RPM for a while now.

I figured it was leaking vacuum hose or something. It was bearable.
 

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249810


For comparison sake: this is how the flap should look. Be aware this is a nearly brand new valve cover. There shouldn't be a bend there. I've had this metal plate get pushed far enough down that it caused the camshaft to strike it. Making a knocking noise.

But the amount of sludge in the oil makes me want to say oil starvation at the oil sump pickup. This is a good case for oils with detergent to be used. This is a 5,000 mile valve cover. Granted, I'm on ethanol (a cleaner) and it's super low miles.

Check your inbox here on Supraforums. I'll send you another message. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
find a local supra group here or on FB and see who they recommend locally. AP is one of the best but there are many others than can work on a 2j. sounds like in your situation finding someone local is the way to go.
Thanks I did get hold of Don. I am working on getting my car to him.

Thanks to all.
 

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Check your converter bolts ... there are 6 of them ... make sure one hasn’t loosen up and is hit the transmission bell housing. I doesn’t sound like a rod knock. Rod knock has a lower deeper sound.
 

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I had a similar issue last year, my car was parked for a while started it every now and then....ended up with the same noise. I use 5w30 synthetic oil btw. Replaced my spark plugs and valve cover gaskets and then this happened. Mind you I didn’t drop anything inside the engine. Have you done any work with spark plugs or had your valve covers removed by any chance? Drop the oil and see if there metal. Perform a compression and valve leak test. If that checks out good then check your harmonic dampener, check the transmission bolts flywheel or torque converter. Is the car misfiring? Pinpoint the noise to to exact cylinder mines was 4 if I remember correctly. Push down on the piston individually at top dead center see if you have play in the rod bearing. Anyways if all checks out you might just have a stuck valve. Mines magically went away thank god. Hope fully yours too.
 

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Having been there myself, I'd recommend starting off with an oil sampling service, such as Blackstone. This is assuming you haven't already drained out the oil. They'll tell you exactly what is in your oil, and be able to give you an idea as to the health of your engine. Fluid analysis is a useful tool.

Second, if you decide to rebuild, be realistic in what you want out of the car, and how you use it. This is the step where there are a LOT of cool "while you're in there" options. It's not hard at all to let a project snowball at this point, trust me. Not saying I'm unhappy with my build, but man... I wasted a lot of money where I truly didn't need to, so that's an expensive lesson learned. End result though, the car is a hoot and a half to drive when everything is cooperating.

Third, keep us posted, success stories are appreciated! :)
 

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Good luck with the repairs man. I vote for a rebuilt motor too. Sounds like rod knock or at best hydraulic tappet....but these motors don't have hydraulic tappets.
 

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My vote is a stuck valve/bucket. Every one of them came free after a while. The leaking stem seals carbon them up and they'll stick.
 

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My vote is a stuck valve/bucket. Every one of them came free after a while. The leaking stem seals carbon them up and they'll stick.
I always find a stuck bucket or lifter hard to visualise....aren't buckets always kinda stuck to the stem of the valve? I get that it happens with hydraulic ones and they eventually do just clear through and go back to normal again.
 
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