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Sounds way too low pitched to me for it to be valve train.
Rod knock is more of a thunk and clatter type noise.
Valve train is typically more like a ticking/ clicking or tapping.
 

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OP, before you do all this engine analysis, etc. Have you checked the TC bolts?
Its an easy check and could save you a lot of running around chasing different things.
This happened to me some years ago and they had backed out causing them to hit the bell housing making a very similar noise to what's in your video.
It may sound strange but it saved me from pulling my motor, etc because I thought I had rod knock.
If you have not yet, I highly recommend it as it very easy to do.
 

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I always find a stuck bucket or lifter hard to visualise....aren't buckets always kinda stuck to the stem of the valve? I get that it happens with hydraulic ones and they eventually do just clear through and go back to normal again.
not really. they just sit on the valve tip but the bucket to bore clearance is so tight that if anything gets lodged in there it could make it stick. also a collapsed spring would make it sit lower causing the lobe to smack it when rotating.
i have personally never seen any of this first hand on any toyota but i know its happened to people.
 

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I always find a stuck bucket or lifter hard to visualise....aren't buckets always kinda stuck to the stem of the valve? I get that it happens with hydraulic ones and they eventually do just clear through and go back to normal again.
The valve pushes against the spring which pushes against the bucket which pushes against the camshaft. The stop point being the head for the bucket and the head for the valve seat. On the way to very top or bottom of travel they can stick and then the cam "slaps" the bucket making that horrendous sound instead of contacting it. It has always cleared (freed) on every one of my cars and almost all of them have had it after sitting or having the valve covers off.

I've learned to spread a small amount of oil on the buckets before putting the covers back on, and I always cover the head now when they're off.
 

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not really. they just sit on the valve tip but the bucket to bore clearance is so tight that if anything gets lodged in there it could make it stick. also a collapsed spring would make it sit lower causing the lobe to smack it when rotating.
i have personally never seen any of this first hand on any toyota but i know its happened to people.
I've had it but only because I didn't keep it sterile. I'm convinced of it lol
 

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Like I mentioned earlier in this post check your torque converter bolts!

If you think it is a rod bearing then here’s an easy way to check. Pull the coil wire connector off one cylinder at a time. After you remove the coil connector rev the engine slowly ...if no change In sound move to the next cylinder ... when you find the spun bearing cylinder the noise will definitely change sound ... it will not be as loud or go away completely.
 

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Check your torque converter bolts, if they are loose it will make a knock sound. This has happened to me many years ago. If the bolts are not loose I would drain your motors oil check for metal shavings or tiny metal particles in oil.
 

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I agree with all of this. It shouldn't be a block issue to make that high tone sound. Like I said - the oil filler is bent in your photo. Pull it up with your finger. Easy fix.

Check the torque converter bolts. Drain oil to an oil sample container from Blackstone. Open the oil filter up. Do a compression check. There's so much that can be done compared to having the despair of the bottom end being bad.

I'm really looking forward to seeing what it was. Make sure you don't get taken for a ride by the shop. Supra owner to them = deep pockets and do not think they won't take advantage. It's a daily occurrence for us so finding a trustworthy shop is tremendously important.
 

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Cut your oil filter & drop the oil pan, inspect. If you've spun a bearing you'll know instantly.

If it's been down on power for a year due to misfiring/knocking it is very possible you spun a bearing.

If you're on a budget it's def possible to find a JDM pullout non-vvti GTE motor from an Aristo for <$4k.
And they usually have less than 80k miles on them.

Paying a machine shop to repair, reassemble, and swap back in your current shortblock/longblock will definitely cost more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Good call. You'll be happy with Don's work.

What was the diagnosis?
There was a bent rod due to the engine taking water in the past. There were also several maintenance items that were never done or done incorrectly. At least now I know things will get done correctly.
 
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