Supra Forums banner

61 - 80 of 83 Posts

·
Registered
1987 Toyota Supra
Joined
·
430 Posts
Sounds way too low pitched to me for it to be valve train.
Rod knock is more of a thunk and clatter type noise.
Valve train is typically more like a ticking/ clicking or tapping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
OP, before you do all this engine analysis, etc. Have you checked the TC bolts?
Its an easy check and could save you a lot of running around chasing different things.
This happened to me some years ago and they had backed out causing them to hit the bell housing making a very similar noise to what's in your video.
It may sound strange but it saved me from pulling my motor, etc because I thought I had rod knock.
If you have not yet, I highly recommend it as it very easy to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,884 Posts
I always find a stuck bucket or lifter hard to visualise....aren't buckets always kinda stuck to the stem of the valve? I get that it happens with hydraulic ones and they eventually do just clear through and go back to normal again.
not really. they just sit on the valve tip but the bucket to bore clearance is so tight that if anything gets lodged in there it could make it stick. also a collapsed spring would make it sit lower causing the lobe to smack it when rotating.
i have personally never seen any of this first hand on any toyota but i know its happened to people.
 

·
Racing is Life.
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
I always find a stuck bucket or lifter hard to visualise....aren't buckets always kinda stuck to the stem of the valve? I get that it happens with hydraulic ones and they eventually do just clear through and go back to normal again.
The valve pushes against the spring which pushes against the bucket which pushes against the camshaft. The stop point being the head for the bucket and the head for the valve seat. On the way to very top or bottom of travel they can stick and then the cam "slaps" the bucket making that horrendous sound instead of contacting it. It has always cleared (freed) on every one of my cars and almost all of them have had it after sitting or having the valve covers off.

I've learned to spread a small amount of oil on the buckets before putting the covers back on, and I always cover the head now when they're off.
 

·
Racing is Life.
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
not really. they just sit on the valve tip but the bucket to bore clearance is so tight that if anything gets lodged in there it could make it stick. also a collapsed spring would make it sit lower causing the lobe to smack it when rotating.
i have personally never seen any of this first hand on any toyota but i know its happened to people.
I've had it but only because I didn't keep it sterile. I'm convinced of it lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
439 Posts
Like I mentioned earlier in this post check your torque converter bolts!

If you think it is a rod bearing then here’s an easy way to check. Pull the coil wire connector off one cylinder at a time. After you remove the coil connector rev the engine slowly ...if no change In sound move to the next cylinder ... when you find the spun bearing cylinder the noise will definitely change sound ... it will not be as loud or go away completely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Piratetip

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,059 Posts
Check your torque converter bolts, if they are loose it will make a knock sound. This has happened to me many years ago. If the bolts are not loose I would drain your motors oil check for metal shavings or tiny metal particles in oil.
 

·
Racing is Life.
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
I agree with all of this. It shouldn't be a block issue to make that high tone sound. Like I said - the oil filler is bent in your photo. Pull it up with your finger. Easy fix.

Check the torque converter bolts. Drain oil to an oil sample container from Blackstone. Open the oil filter up. Do a compression check. There's so much that can be done compared to having the despair of the bottom end being bad.

I'm really looking forward to seeing what it was. Make sure you don't get taken for a ride by the shop. Supra owner to them = deep pockets and do not think they won't take advantage. It's a daily occurrence for us so finding a trustworthy shop is tremendously important.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Cut your oil filter & drop the oil pan, inspect. If you've spun a bearing you'll know instantly.

If it's been down on power for a year due to misfiring/knocking it is very possible you spun a bearing.

If you're on a budget it's def possible to find a JDM pullout non-vvti GTE motor from an Aristo for <$4k.
And they usually have less than 80k miles on them.

Paying a machine shop to repair, reassemble, and swap back in your current shortblock/longblock will definitely cost more than that.
 

·
Master Shit Fixer
Joined
·
3,737 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
Good call. You'll be happy with Don's work.

What was the diagnosis?
There was a bent rod due to the engine taking water in the past. There were also several maintenance items that were never done or done incorrectly. At least now I know things will get done correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
Hello All,

Happy Thanksgiving to all. Just thought I'd give you guys an update.

It's been about 8 months since I sent my car to Accelerated Performance to get my engine rebuilt but it should be back soon.

Has anyone ever had their car sent to Accelerated Performance and what was your experience? How long do rebuilds usually take?

I'll certainly let you know how everything turns out when I get my car back.

To all those who mentioned checking the Torque Converter bolts, unfortunately I did not. I talked to Don and shortly afterwards sent my car in to get worked on. Damage was found on the crank and there was at least one bent rod.

Thanks for all your support thus far, I really was surprised at the amount of support and quality responses I got.

I wish everyone a happy holiday season

Your Bro,
Central
 

·
Master Shit Fixer
Joined
·
3,737 Posts
^ 8 months? Wow. I sent just my motor to Don via freight shipping and had it back within 2 weeks. This was 4 years ago tho...no pandemic.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,643 Posts
^ 8 months? Wow. I sent just my motor to Don via freight shipping and had it back within 2 weeks. This was 4 years ago tho...no pandemic.
From all that I know from personal friends who were customers of Accelerated Performance, bitshftr's experience is the exception, not the norm. Among my circle of friends, Don has a reputation of being very good, but very slow. Best of luck, OP.


Ken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
From all that I know from personal friends who were customers of Accelerated Performance, bitshftr's experience is the exception, not the norm. Among my circle of friends, Don has a reputation of being very good, but very slow. Best of luck, OP.


Ken.
Good to know.

Honestly I prefer to wait and have an excellent job done than vice versa.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
^ 8 months? Wow. I sent just my motor to Don via freight shipping and had it back within 2 weeks. This was 4 years ago tho...no pandemic.
Def not the norm, for any builder. They might've had a spare longblock ready to go, with your specs, and used yours as a core swap.
My Supra's billet main motor took ~5mo.
My Evo's took ~7mo.
 

·
Master Shit Fixer
Joined
·
3,737 Posts
Def not the norm, for any builder. They might've had a spare longblock ready to go, with your specs, and used yours as a core swap.
Nope...my block and head were returned to me, cleaned, honed, decked, with all new bearings and pistons, new modified oil pump installed, cylinder 6 EGR port blocked, head blasted, repaired, valve jobbed, & reassembled with BC springs...turnaround time was literally 2 weeks. I understand this is not the norm...I must've gotten lucky on timing. This was a rebuild...not a "built motor".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #80
Hi All,

It's been almost a year since this all started and a while since I've posed any updates.

I will be sharing my experiences to hopefully help others make better decisions.

Unfortunately this is not over yet and until it is I have to wait.

For now I ask if anyone knows a decent shop in Central Jersey that can swap OEM injectors for me?

Recommendations for a general repair shop for a modified 97 Supra are also welcome.

Thanks for all your ongoing support.
 
61 - 80 of 83 Posts
Top