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BPU is so 1997
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I've put it off long enough, and it's now time to get it fixed. Paint flaked off the other day from where the rust sits, and that's when I knew it is time for me to get this taken care of.

My two options are: A.) Get the rust "repaired" for about $300 + $75 to R&R the glass and risk the potential for it to come back or B.) Buy a new hatch from Toyota for about $550 + $75 to have the glass pulled & reinstalled + $100 to paint.

For those of you that have gone with option A, please answer these questions:

1.) Year and color of car:
2.) What type of climate/environment is the car exposed to:
3.) How long ago did you have it repaired:
4.) Any signs of the rust coming back yet?

I have spoken to quite a few of my friends that work in bodyshops, and they have all said that it's a gamble to repair rust. Even if you completely remove all rusted areas, it's still in the metal and has the potential of coming back. :( I guess the best thing would be option B, but I guess that'll put me back a few weeks on going single turbo. :sadwavey:

Thanks for your feedback guys. :)
 

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painted cf hood advocate
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409 Posts
Instead of going to option B wouldnt it be better to buy a carbon fiber hatch instead? Maybe someone that has replaced their stock hatch hatch with a carbon fiber one can chime in on the fitment. I would guess that getting a carbon fiber one and getting it painted would be a very good alternative oppose to buying a new stock hatch from Toyota.
 

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i lift trucks
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i myself would choose Option B in all honesty.....id rather have paid more and have no worry of future headaches than paid less and have to wonder how long it will last until you have to pay to fix it again.

know what i mean?
 

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Will work for Supra parts
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Wow, where exactly does the rust form? I didn't even know there was a trouble spot like this on the hatch. I'd like to know just so I can keep an eye on that spot.
 

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Espeefan said:
Wow, where exactly does the rust form? I didn't even know there was a trouble spot like this on the hatch. I'd like to know just so I can keep an eye on that spot.
Same here...

And a CF hatch would be even more expensive :(

Personally, I'd say option B too. Just think, it'll take longer, but once you go single you won't have to worry about your hatch!
 

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painted cf hood advocate
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Rust tends to form on the lower corners of the hatch where water tends to get trapped.
The carbon fiber hatch is not that expensive.
 

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Greddy T78
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blaze1539 said:
Rust tends to form on the lower corners of the hatch where water tends to get trapped.
The carbon fiber hatch is not that expensive.

Can you have real glas on the Carbon fiber hatch ?
Or you gonna have to get Plastic ?
 

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Premium Member
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5,382 Posts
Just do A, it wont start to rust if all rust has been sanded off. It's a poor paintjob if it starts to rust again and the bodyshop should fix it.
 
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Krister said:
Just do A, it wont start to rust if all rust has been sanded off. It's a poor paintjob if it starts to rust again and the bodyshop should fix it.
Agreed, no difference esentially if the prep work is done right. If you were quoted $300, they are not going to spend enough time to do it right. Look at the hourly rate there, but I still think the repair runs a little more than that.
 

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This is where I have a little rust too, Used picture of a different car though, by the way mine is a 94 alpine silver if that matters? And the car was a Jersey car that I bought in Chicago and now in Indiana. I plan on eventually going with a carbon hatch though. Any problems with going with one of these hatches?
 

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I'm glad you posted this thread hua because I'm in the same boat as you are. I have the dreaded Hatch rust as well :rant2:

For those who didnt know, they used to say it was a WHITE supra problem only, but now we can see that it plagues other colors as well. Have a 97-98 model ever had this problem?

The Seibon Carbon Fiber hatch is about $840 from HPF. Although this would be a good idea and a great weightsaver, I'm not sure if i would like to be taking the weight off the rear in an already nose heavy car.

I may go option A, my bodyshop has a warranty so if it comes back, I'm positive they'll fix it. It's a good time to shave that rear wiper though!!
 

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Administrator
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I would do Option B myself for the peace of mind. Option A might work, but Option B is guaranteed.
 

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I would go with option B, don't want to worry about future headaches. How good is the bodyshop you're thinking of going with?
 

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I plan on doing a carbon hood too, so the weight ratio will somewhat stay around the same.
Do you think it would be wise to stay with the stock hatch shocks with a lightweight hatch?
wouldn't you have to get a lighter shocks because of the weight difference? When you open the hatch wouldn't you think that it will open fast or just more of a pop?
 

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BPU is so 1997
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
racinghart said:
I would go with option B, don't want to worry about future headaches. How good is the bodyshop you're thinking of going with?
I use a Honda dealership body shop. I used to work there, and many of my old co-workers still work there, and have been for the past 10 years. So I trust them with my car. My initial statement of $300 to repair the rust is based on previous threads regarding this problem, and the amount people paid to fix it. They aren't going to charge me normal labor since it will all be done on the side. I doubt that even if I pay full price, a body shop will guarantee their work that the rust doesn't come back, but I will check into it. If it costs as much as a new hatch to repair my old one, I'll just get a new one to save me from wasting cash on something as stupid as this.

twitch69187 said:
I plan on doing a carbon hood too, so the weight ratio will somewhat stay around the same.
Do you think it would be wise to stay with the stock hatch shocks with a lightweight hatch?
wouldn't you have to get a lighter shocks because of the weight difference? When you open the hatch wouldn't you think that it will open fast or just more of a pop?
I'm going to stay with the stock hatch hydraulics either way. Those things aren't cheap. My stockers are probably a little worn as is, so it'll work out perfectly if I get a carbon. Either way you go, you can always compensate with your hand if it opens up quicker than normal. I hardly ever open mine anyways, so it doesn't matter much to me.


edit: BTW, my car started life in WV where it was purchased by the owner of the Toyota dealer, then it went to PA where in 3 years it only accumulated 506 miles, then it came to Ohio in 2/'99 with 1,558 miles on the odometer. Then in two years, the guy I bought it from here in town racked up 47k miles on the car. It was garaged, but it was his daily driver. The rust started visable on the surface about 2 years after I purchased it, which was back in Sep. '01. I have kept it in a garage, it's seen rain three times since I have owned it. I guess I shouldn't have washed it so many times. Damn water just channels down the rubber seal and sits there.

After you guys wash your car, push down on the glass in the bottom corner of your hatch where the rust usually forms. If water squirts out even minimally, looks like rust is imminent since that is how mine used to be. :sadwavey:
 

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Hua said:
I use a Honda dealership body shop. I used to work there, and many of my old co-workers still work there, and have been for the past 10 years. So I trust them with my car. My initial statement of $300 to repair the rust is based on previous threads regarding this problem, and the amount people paid to fix it. They aren't going to charge me normal labor since it will all be done on the side. I doubt that even if I pay full price, a body shop will guarantee their work that the rust doesn't come back, but I will check into it. If it costs as much as a new hatch to repair my old one, I'll just get a new one to save me from wasting cash on something as stupid as this.


I'm going to stay with the stock hatch hydraulics either way. Those things aren't cheap. My stockers are probably a little worn as is, so it'll work out perfectly if I get a carbon. Either way you go, you can always compensate with your hand if it opens up quicker than normal. I hardly ever open mine anyways, so it doesn't matter much to me.

Hua, i've been through this already. I chose option B and that is what i did on mine. If you think the rust is bad on the outside,just wait till you pull the glass and see whats under neath. To me its not worth risking all the time and effort into fixing something thats cancerous. I mean it could fix it, but why take the chance when you already have to pull the glass out and spend atleast $300 to repair it. Thats just my opinion from my experience. For those that thought about the Carbon fiber hatch, it is something i thought about too, but no company that i know of makes one that can support a spoiler. You cannot just drill into the carbon fiber and mount the spoiler on there. The reason is because it isn't designed for it with support.

My car is a 93, was anthracite, repainted alpine silver by previous owner. The car is subjected to weather but is under the car cover usually. I bought mine with teh hatch rust problem, it didn't get much worst than when i had it, and fixed it about 6 months of ownership.
 

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Boost Junkie
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The stock hood is pretty light-aluminum. By going to a carbon fiber hood you'll save maybe 6-10 lbs. The carbon fiber hatch is much lighter then the stocker, but you need all the weight you can get in the back of the car, especially one making a lot of horsepower. If you are going to get the carbon hatch, I'd relocate the batter to try and make up the difference in weight.


Steve K.
 

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LexusTico
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There are problems with both options... If you have it repaired and don't do it right, it'll come back quickly and depending on the shop you used, you might have a warranty or you might not.

If you buy a new hatch, you are guaranteed for it to happen again, as the problem comes down to the way it is prepped and manufactured - they did not take enough care to protect an area that collects water.

I had mine repaired in nov. 2002 and, knock on wood, it's still good. My body shop was great though, as a matter of fact, the guys are from OH :) They removed the glass and ground down a good portion of the metal, cleaned it, ground some more, cleaned it, on and on... they were then very meticulous about the way they prepped the metal, and the way they painted it... how much paint coverage (you don't want too much or it can crack and let moisture in, or too little that the same might happen).

With the new stock hatch you're good for a while, but it'll come back. You've also only got one year warranty from Toyota and your body shop might not warranty it after the job is done unless they strip it and prep it themselves because it comes primered from Toyota.... they'll just blame Toyota if the rust appears.

Bottom line if you have it repaired is make sure you go to a GOOD shop - not one that will only charge you $300 :)
 
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