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Your Supra isn't riding too high without them being cut? Do you have pictures? A member stated he had to cut 1" from the rod and 1" on the body
 

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Slavery Is Freedom
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78 Posts
Reserved while looking for pics (sunday night)

I took an all day [business] road trip today and noticed some more details of how sweet it is...

Another well known winding-and-really-shitty road travelled today, w/ wet spots. Same driving style: try to have a little fun, but not go off the cliff or attract the attention of oncoming cops. One part is so rippled that I had lost interest in even trying to get around it fast like I used to. You see, I purchased the car in 07 w/stock suspension. It was great, for awhile, and I used it up like a $2 whore on these very same roads. Many great miles on those crappy stockers, LOL.

There's also a treacherous hard-right kink (not bend) transitioning to uphill from flat, with so much patching and transition from flat to uphill/right, that I had just learned to go around it, lest I bottom out. I hit it this time slightly to outside to see how it went. Ni-i-i-i-i-i-ice. No bottom out just smooth, but sudden transition with no chassis noise.

The lack of Chassis noise is a major indicator of improvement. I still had not noticed this till later on I-5. There is a section I travel regularly, where, for like 15-20 miles, it's super shitty in the right lane. It is so bad I have made it a habit of left-lane-parking while in that section because it is THAT unbearable after a only a few minutes. I could also feel it in my aging and broken back, LOL. Tonight, I was like, "hmmm the road noise seems a tad high... Oh snap! I'm on "that" section again, only now I can chill in the right lane again. Yay!" (I know-- :ghey:)

This is an old shot, but if i don't squat down and eyeball my setup, I really can't tell the difference. Even then, I'm not sure that I'm not just "seeing" the difference cuz I know that it's been "changed". If anything I think I detect a better forward cant. However slight, it seems more 'muscle' or 'drag' stance (angled nose down), than 'flat' which is how I would describe the setup before. I'll try to get pics soon. Had to drive work yesterday, and drive today while it's dry enough...Been storming up here. Thursday should be clear, and if there's a gap in the rain tomorrow I'll get something up. The problem is finding an old pic that was taken from 'level' or low angle, and then getting a new one with the car in the same spot, and at the same angle.
On the ride height: Trust me, it looks nothing like BruceWayne's '4wheeler' pics! It's more like stock. I can put two fingers in w/ a little room to spare, but definitely cannot fit three. I'm sure this setup with the helpers could be lowered, but I live in the mountains and daily drive mine, so I need it practical, not scraper (which I do actually like). Remember, though, Drew did not spec this setup out for slamming. There isn't a whole lot of travel to work with.
If I lived in the city, and this was a weekend car, I would totally mess with lowering or cutting the shocks, but I would never be embarrassed to drive it as-is. Even at meats, no one ever told me it was 'too high'. I've only ever seen that on here, LOL.

Man I'm tired, but loving it so I had to check in cuz it's a great setup... I can't wait till it's dry, or to hit up the track.

PS. I got new bushings all around in January, too, along with a new steering rack/PS pump rebuild and other stuff. So pretty much new suspension all around now.

"BEFORE" PICS for reference wheels are 18"

These are from April, & Sept/October of this year, respectively.

 

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Slavery Is Freedom
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78 Posts
So These were three days after install. I still have not gotten any shots similar to or same as the ones above. You can see, however, that same stock looking ride height i is there. I would love to slam it, but I need the clearance and shock travel.

Close up shot.
There was actually a THIRD cat behind the one on the right... fuckers. ... And I thought thieves would be the problem!
 

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i am getting ready to build this set up, shocks are off the car (i had the oem Bilstein) and ready to go out for a revalve. but i wanted to ask what you thought about my spring rates. i am looking for a track/street set up but i have a non turbo so it may be lighter than most turbos. i am going to run 650 and 450
i had my car weighted
total 3072lbs (half a tank of fuel)
total with me in it 3269lbs
861 (LF) 801(RF)
838 (LR) 769(RR)

so do you think a 650 spring rate will put me close to what gixxer had listed for the track set up of 800
also will i need helper springs all around?
 

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Slavery Is Freedom
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78 Posts
I don't know anything about spring/car weights prediction, but my experience says that you will be fine. For me, this setup is basically too hard for the street. The only reason I got it this hard is because I track it. You will likely need the helper springs, but for some reason other people have only needed two. Unfortunately, you may have to wait until install and setup to see whether or not you need them. If they are available locally (and returnable) I would buy them and have em ready, or at least know they are in stock. ShockShop would only take three days to get to you anyway. a full set from him was about $200.

There is barely any squat up front - as quickly as I can hit the brakes, it sets/squats into a turn so I can let off the brake and accelerate out. I also have the titan adjustable swaybars, and I completely understand the too-stiff judgement earlier in the thread. I may have to go back to stock. There is zero body roll in back. I have only tested sliding in the wet & it was quick to let loose and without any feeling or "letgo"-- it just goes from traction to sliding... I'll have to check it out in the dry...
 

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Your Supra isn't riding too high without them being cut? Do you have pictures? A member stated he had to cut 1" from the rod and 1" on the body
I could have set mine at stock ride height without cutting the shocks. But #1- stock height looks silly and #2- there would have been no preload on the springs and barely any travel (into the bumpstop repeatedly)
The 4x4esque pictures that i posted had the bare minimum preload on all springs. With it set this way i would still run into the bumps every once and a while. If i were to lower the car anymore i would have had NO preload and would hit the bumps even easier. I highly recommend that you guys put a zip tie on the rods of all shocks and check them periodically to see actually how high they are getting pushed up. I couldnt tell i was into the bump until i did this. After having them cut i could lower my car below stock, have preload on all springs and i no longer hit the bumps. I truly believe that these Bilsteins have grown in length since Drews original write up
My car now
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1421744759.113434.jpg
 

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How relevant is this setup now?
I've recently purchased a 95TT, it has coilovers but I'm not sure how long they've been on the car.
I'm looking at replacing (maintenance items) most of the suspension and looking for a good setup for daily driving / track days.
 

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Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
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12,199 Posts
These are still relevant IMO. I have BC BR's on both my mk3 and SC300. I initially thought they were better than what I had which was a set of HKS hypermaxes which I got used, and the rears ended up being drift ones with a stupid rebound. REALLY SHITTY SETUP. I blame a forum member for that and not telling me about them being the same coil overs front to back.

Fast forward to 2015 and I bought BC BR for my mk3, they rode like a dream by comparison... I always found them bouncy though and not quite that enjoyable for street driving. I would have them on full soft and they would be soft but harsh dependant on the type of bump, and it simply didn't feel balanced.

Fast forward to 2020, I installed BC's on my sc300, and since I DD this car and rarely drive the mk3 it was easy to forget what I hated about the BC's. After just 2 months with the BC's I decided they must go. (Bought both sets of BC's new.) I then went on a quest to find a better suspension setup and found Specialists in Automotive Suspension Optimization | The Home of Creating Ride Harmony | Fat Cat Motorsports, Inc. he runs a youtube channel called suspensiontruth and gives all sorts of interesting info on shocks specifically Bilstien. He's extremely expensive and cost me 650 for consult since I was just so unhappy with the performance of my suspension being that it was firm yet soft and if I adjusted the shock dampening valve on top it would just get worse on the bumpy stuff and a little better on the too-soft stuff. Besides who the hell wants to always play with knobs? I just want to drive.

So on my quest to find better suspension, I tried looking around for Bilstein's new or used. I ended up finding a set of Bilstein's used fronts only on Eibach springs. I swapped out my BC's and lowered the rear spring rates on the BC's from 10k to 7k. The car drives SO much better. I'm going to order the 1243's from ECS tuning to replace the rear BC's.

The final thing you can do if you have BC's is to re-valve them with Bilstien internals.

Here's the comprehensive guide to doing so. DIY Shock Revalve: PARTS 1-3 - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion


Anyways, to find the shocks, I was able to order them from ECS tuning as they order directly from Germany even though the US does not carry them anymore.

They can even get the snap rings machined in before time for 15$ per shock.

On a side note, I found that the energy bump stops suck because they are so hard, and moreover, they do not fit properly, as you will rub the fender liner (at least with sc300) because they are not long enough.

I ended up ordering 58MM soft bump stops from resuspension

Note that they also sell the shims and the Bilstein pistons there if you want to revalve the BC coil-overs. This is for the people who want Gixxer Drew setup but lower than stock.
 

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Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
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The set from Germany, I question if they are the same valving since I know these were made in California and changed form the german spec or something. I'm not sure what the difference is though. I'm trying to decide if I revalve my BC BR's with Bilstien internals or try to go down this road.
 
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