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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Got my engine today. Still tearing into it to see what's what. Also debating if I keep the twins and upgrade as I go, or do single from the get go. Last weekend in the wet the GE was breaking things loose. What the hell is a GTE with a single going to be like? :nervous:

But hey at least this will stop Tom from pointing/laughing and saying, "Look at it! It's not even a turbo!"

Also here's a youtube video of the engine being compression tested. It tested high so I'm expecting a fair amount of build up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdZGuvLHKls

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well took off a few more parts to get at the turbos. Gotta say all those vacuum lines are a complete PITA. Some of the hoses were so hard they didn't slip off, but simply cracked. So the whole engine will need new hoses except for a couple which were obviously replaced.

I did manage to peek at the cold side of the rear turbo. There's no shaft play at all, and it does spin decently. You see a bit of pooling at the gasket which isn't good, and not exactly clean in there. So I'm thinking either it has a bad seal, or the CCV has been getting a serious workout. Mark and his friend at PACNW said the turbos would probably be bad just need confirmation.


Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Other turbo(front of the engine) shows a bit of a different story. Dry as a bone with a bit of carbon build up. So I'm pretty sure the seal on the rear turbo is shot which means rebuild.

Assuming $500'ish or more to rebuild the things, and they won't make my eventual power goal they're off the table. Now I could go USDM twins for less than that, but those eventually run out of steam before my eventual power goal. So that means I logically go single from the get go, plus I don't have to put all that fracking plumbing back on the engine.

Now off to the dyno section to see what's what. If you guys have any recommendation for an auto setup I'm definitely interested.

 

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You may as well go with a single turbo now if you are even considering it down the line since you have everything apart anyways. It will save you a lot of time and money, even if you do have to wait a little while to stack your chips
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You may as well go with a single turbo now if you are even considering it down the line since you have everything apart anyways. It will save you a lot of time and money, even if you do have to wait a little while to stack your chips
Yeah I completely agree. The twins are just too much of a pain to put them back on. I've got all winter to get the project done, so I figure I can piece things as I go. Hopefully in time to make Centralia returning with a single'd car.

i have a turbo for sale...its a 67mm with a .68 hotside...600 shipped plus paypal...
Thanks dude, but I'd have to piece meal a good portion of things still. So I'll probably go kit to make things easier on myself. It's more expensive I know, but this is my first dealings with turbos so the less variables the better.
 

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thats cool...good luck with your build....and i would do the same thing, if it was my first time too....i'm sure one of the venders will beable to hook u up....
 

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Car guy
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67mm is going to be pretty laggy on a auto with a stock stall. Go with a 58mm, 60mm or a billet 6262 with a small hot side.

What are your goals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
67mm is going to be pretty laggy on a auto with a stock stall. Go with a 58mm, 60mm or a billet 6262 with a small hot side.

What are your goals?
Wanted to hit 500'ish RWHP keeping things as streetable as possible.
 

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adammackintosh.net
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+1 single it now/once you can.

youll thank yourself everytime you help someone take off their stock twins.

btw single'd 2jz is nutbar on the street.

mine was spinning 4th gear at 200km/h last week now that the roads are so cold.
on 12" wide street tires....

keep motivated, youll love the end product no matter what it is.
looking forward to seeing this beast completed one day.

[edit]
ah yea 500rwhp is perfect for street in my opinion.....
at that power i was able to brake boost in 3rd gear and get traction most of the time.
at 600+rwhp i cant get traction if my life depends on it and the supra isnt even fun anymore around town.
it just spins and spins and spins at any speed less than double or triple the posted speed limit.
sounds amazing though at 8k rpm and kinda makes up for it.

if ricers give you trouble you just drop a gear and blast 8k rpm open wastegate into their open rice window and they tend to GTFO pretty quick after that.
 

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GT-R DUN, Son.
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go single..just keep all your stock parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update:

Thanks to the Black Friday Sale from MVP I'm definitely a lot lighter in the wallet. Went with the PHR Stage 1 kit with a Greddy 3-row.

Also after breaking things down and doing a bit more research I'm a bit behind so I'm back to parts collecting AKA saving up my dollars and cents. The only oddball parts I still need are an OBDII auto ECU, and TT DS. The rest is just wait till I have the cash to snatch it up.

Big thanks to Mark(ra24man) for being my OEM source. I've broken a couple things so once the accounts recover you'll have another order.
 

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GT-R DUN, Son.
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fuck yea! :) sounds like your doing things right! keep the build updated, and post pic of the kit (if you got the time) when you recieve it. just pull it out of the box and snap a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright so to update this thread with the latest. GE is pulled. GTE is mostly torn apart as I need to switch over oil pans from the GE to GTE, fuel system, harness, water pump, and jazz. Currently in the parts waiting game on putting the engine back together as I saw the oil pan difference way late. Hoping for an early June/late May completion. I really don't want to bring zee german to PacNW.

As requested here's a pic of the PHR Stage 1. I'm extremely happy with what they delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Figured I'd update this. The GTE is mostly torn apart, pic below. I had to swap pans as the GTE was front sump. Was sort of an interesting picture to compare. You can easily tell which pan has seen 193K miles. While tearing the old one off it was curious to find that the front main seal was shot, and the front two oil pan bolts were loose enough to turn with your fingers. Explains the mound of caked on oil from the No:1 oil pan and below.



Here's the engine in it's current state as of last night. Just have to remove the cams and it will be ready to start putting parts back on. Been fighting parts washing as well since I've been doing it by hand. Is there a better way to get this done? Also there's a special place in hell for the engineer that created those grommets on the valve covers. They're a royal pain to remove from the posts, and they're stuck in a corner.

 
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