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Discussion Starter #1
After 4 months of waiting, my car is finally running. My car had got rod knock. so i had to take the engine out, stripe it down, and brought it to a machine shop. where they had to replace the crank, shotpeen the rods, put in ross pistons, milled head/block, ARP everything and other things... then while i was waiting for them to finish that, i had to get some things too... spec stage 3 clutch kit, 60-1 ct26 upgrade, NA cam, 3" catback exhaust, semi-solid engine mounts, Cometic mhg.

Well last tuesday I finally got a chance to start it. i've got just about 200 miles on it so far, changed the oil at 50, still have crappy oil in it. seems to be running normally, although when it was sitting during winter, a hole made itself in my downpipe, just before the 2nd cat... so looks like that's gonna have to get replaced too...bic.... I just want to say thanks to DL. for referring me to Borchardt in Milwaukee, they seem to have done a good job.

On another note, I was talking to my amsoil dealer, and he said that after an engine rebuild you should wait a good 4-5k miles before switching to synthetic.... isn't it like 1k or 1.5k? 4k seems like way to much.

I do have a small video clip of the car starting for the first time, nothing special, but here... http://65.30.134.27:5080/videos/suprastart.wmv
 

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90_mkIII_7m said:
On another note, I was talking to my amsoil dealer, and he said that after an engine rebuild you should wait a good 4-5k miles before switching to synthetic.... isn't it like 1k or 1.5k? 4k seems like way to much.
First, congrats on getting the car up and running! I know what a relief it can be, especially after so much downtime.

As for the oil question, it really depends on the engine. Some of the high-end German cars say it is OK to run synthetic right away as the closer tolerances of today make "break-in" a thing of the past.

The 7m, while a good engine, doesn't fall in that category. I would personally recommend changing the oil frequently during break-in with dinosaur oil. And while I'd consider 3000 miles a good break-in, there really is no harm in waiting till 4,000-5,000.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it's just that i've checked the oil every day, and there is no oil consuption, after 200 miles, i'm prolly going to put synthetic in at 1500. if things aren't broken in by then, they probably won't, the cylinder walls are probably allready smoothed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yea, how much does a bvsv vlave go for new? the little thing that goes int he thermostat housing, top left of it i think. it has to hoses on the top. the top one broke off of mine, and duct tape is holding it on. there is one on ebay, used, for like $22.
 

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90_mkIII_7m said:
yea, how much does a bvsv vlave go for new? the little thing that goes int he thermostat housing, top left of it i think. it has to hoses on the top. the top one broke off of mine, and duct tape is holding it on. there is one on ebay, used, for like $22.
heh, you can probably get one at any junkyard for <$5. I've got them off of corollas, camry's, tercels etc.


I've search toyotaworld.com, and can't find a listing for either the "BVSV" or the part number from this EPC diagram: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291410/1708_2.html You could just call your local dealer and see how much they'd charge if you really wanted a new one.
 
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