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· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently switched to ProEFI and had the car on the dyno for the first time ever.

Last year on stock cams, the car did [email protected] on an AEM EMS

Havent been to the track yet, but on the dyno, with the proEFI and a new set of HKS 264 cams, the car did 626rwhp/487tq

This is on a MKIV with T67, .68a/r, 3800 stall (unlocked), and BL trans..

I'm questioning whether the trans or tq converter might have been slipping, as those numbers sound low to me
 

· King Ding-a-ling!
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3,283 Posts
I would say that is a damn good number for an auto car with a 3800 stall.

The horsepower calculator put you at 711 flywheel HP with your previous time with an estimated weight of 3600 lbs. If you figure in 15 % drive train loss you probably would have put down about 600 rwhp on the dyno.

I don't know what your car weighs or know that you have a 15% drive train loss... but those are some numbers to play with.

B
 

· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
car is full weight plus a 6point mild steel rollbar, full tank of race gas, and 185lbs of me

I'd assume drivetrain loss would be closer to 20% with this stall (its really loose)
 

· Premium Member
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5,399 Posts
Sounds right to me with your mods. So if the proefi can get you .11 faster, you do realize that mild steel 6 point is useless as you will need a 10 point at that point in time. My as well cut that thing out to save some wieght lol
 

· Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds right to me with your mods. So if the proefi can get you .11 faster, you do realize that mild steel 6 point is useless as you will need a 10 point at that point in time. My as well cut that thing out to save some wieght lol
I'm thinkign the Cams can get me .11 closer... the proefi will just allow me to control line pressure

But yeah, i realize the 6 point will need to go.. or at least I'll need to add to it
 

· Boost Junkie
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15,154 Posts
For comparison sake my car made 585whp back in '06 when I ran the [email protected] through a built auto and 3800 stall. My car was a little lighter than yours because I had NA brakes and the Weld package, which probably saved me 100lbs. I also didn't have a cage. I'd say you should be pretty close as long as you get a good launch.

Steve
 

· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
will do, going to the track this Friday, shooting for faster than 9.9

just not sure how much longer my trans is gonna hold up. It did something screwy the other day, starting to wonder if it was slipping on the dyno.
 

· Registered
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1,510 Posts
going to dixon or 75/80 ?
 

· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·

· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
what psi and what gas were you running. any nos? built motor? please give me the full run down on your car.
No NOS, havent run the car since the cams, proefi, or having it professionally tuned (ray @ PFSupercars). The [email protected] was with an AEM EMS and tuning it myself (with a little guidance from Brad Brooks)

I usually run at the track at 28-29psi and on Q16, dyno was at 28-29psi (most the wastegate will allow) on Q16

Stock motor, hks 264 cams, BC valve springs, delphi 84lb/hr injectors, homemade fuel system w/2 walbros and -6 feeds, HKS type-s fmic (air temp numbers are mega high), bl manifold, bl 4" downpipe/midpipe, apex gt-spec catback modified for vband to the BL midpipe, hks 50mm wastegate, PTE t67 dbb .68 a/r hotside, BL toyota auto (rebuilt by a local shop), PI 3800 converter re-spraged and rebuilt by midwest, proefi

otherwise stock..

I've got a lot of room to improve on the FMIC and exhaust.. the fmic again is an HKS type-s, the GT-spec exhaust has a 3" section at the very front of it before the first muffler, need to cut that out and replace it with a 4" (or 3.75" to match the rest) section. Air temps at the track are decent at around 125-140, on the dyno air temps hit over 185, albeit this was at the very top of 3rd gear, ~8250 rpm and ~150mph
 

· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I meant with this
just shifted funny 2 times taking off real light throttle from a stop (if im remembering correctly), clunky

Could also just be the settings in the proefi
 

· Fastest Factory Auto
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2,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I found some missing power.. my intercooler piping has boost leaks -everywhere-

Takes 55psi of air being pumped into the intercooler piping to hold 30psi, i have some really large leaks where some pipes appear to have ovaled out and the seal at the compressor cover is definitely not sealing

Gonna have to fix this and get it on the dyno one more time, i know I can get at least 650rwhp out of this thing
 

· Registered
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Well I found some missing power.. my intercooler piping has boost leaks -everywhere-

Takes 55psi of air being pumped into the intercooler piping to hold 30psi, i have some really large leaks where some pipes appear to have ovaled out and the seal at the compressor cover is definitely not sealing

Gonna have to fix this and get it on the dyno one more time, i know I can get at least 650rwhp out of this thing
Overtightening T bolt clamps do that all the time, glad you figured it out.
 

· Registered
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270 Posts
If you find your at a horsepower wall go up on the AR. It's too small to get the air out of the head. Iv'e been fighting with my car all last season trying to go faster then 143mph until VJ told me to check the AR. We were running a 78 S trim with a .70 ar. Too Small!!!

shawn
 

· Banned
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Trap sounds high for that hp IMO. For instance, my friend dynoed 730whp through a 6spd and only trapped 138. But yet again, he spun 1st through some of 3rd. And launches were fucken shitty too. SO maybe it does sound about right. And as ppl already stated, the ar on the hotside sounds some what little. You should try for .81
 
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