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Discussion Starter #1
Im planning on getting one with 186000 miles, so i went to check it out at the wheels and deals in santa clara, and the car had no rust spots on it.
The suspension looked good and most of the interior (but not the right window and sound system) was working.
A random guy came and started talking about the car and said something I didnt hear about valves (?)
He said the car was quiet and the idle was low , and for some reason there was some rust dripping out the radiator hose onto the belts. I should have taken a photo and if required Ill go back and do it. Body is 100% fine imo I looked all around and aint seen rust.

Is this car worth the buy?

JT2MA70L7G0009525 (vin)
 

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It depends on the price. Is it manual? Is it a turbo? What year? Hard top?

Thoroughly inspect both of the rear quarter panels and even take off both interior plastic panels and inspect with a light for any repairs or possible hidden rust back there. Also inspect the spare tire area (take spare tire out) for rust also because the lower rear glass hatch triml or taillight gaskets could cause water leaks and you will have rust if not taken care of.
 

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also need the year. the early cars 86.5-89 had trim that was backed with metal and loves to rust. also a ton more (60-80k total) of the early cars so they should be cheaper

90-92, they are getting rare and more desirable. for example

186k miles 87 na non-turbo =1000-3500 in running condition (as you describe). its the details that make it worth more. original clean trim, no rust, complete interior with no cracks on dash etc.

186k miles 92 na non-turbo = 2500-5000 in my area. a pristine garage kept 9/10 car would sell for over 5k imho.

turbo cars get way more spread

87 turbo auto = 2500-6000 range in my area.
92 turbo auto = 4-5000 +

add 1500+ here if the car is manual turbo

this is in midwest, my perception of cars available for sale.

take a peek underneath. the pinch welds (jack points). signs of rust / deformation at lift points is a big problem / sign of rust deep in it. also look at the brake lines / fuel lines. original and not rusty ----odds are its a good rust free car. replaced / new lines all over = was rusty and then repaired (rust always comes back)

**also should point out to a noobie (x10 if your under 25 years old, not saying your either of these, just making note) its very common for a 6/10 car to be perceived as a 9.5/10 car due to inexperience ...not knowing what your looking at...and excitement. supra's with turbos and manuals are rad, make sure to relax a bit after you drive the thing...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It depends on the price. Is it manual? Is it a turbo? What year? Hard top?

Thoroughly inspect both of the rear quarter panels and even take off both interior plastic panels and inspect with a light for any repairs or possible hidden rust back there. Also inspect the spare tire area (take spare tire out) for rust also because the lower rear glass hatch triml or taillight gaskets could cause water leaks and you will have rust if not taken care of.
Its a 1986 Hardtop. Red. i havent gotten it yet so i dont think i can take panels off or anything like that
 

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also need the year. the early cars 86.5-89 had trim that was backed with metal and loves to rust. also a ton more (60-80k total) of the early cars so they should be cheaper

90-92, they are getting rare and more desirable. for example

186k miles 87 na non-turbo =1000-3500 in running condition (as you describe). its the details that make it worth more. original clean trim, no rust, complete interior with no cracks on dash etc.

186k miles 92 na non-turbo = 2500-5000 in my area. a pristine garage kept 9/10 car would sell for over 5k imho.

turbo cars get way more spread

87 turbo auto = 2500-6000 range in my area.
92 turbo auto = 4-5000 +

add 1500+ here if the car is manual turbo

this is in midwest, my perception of cars available for sale.

take a peek underneath. the pinch welds (jack points). signs of rust / deformation at lift points is a big problem / sign of rust deep in it. also look at the brake lines / fuel lines. original and not rusty ----odds are its a good rust free car. replaced / new lines all over = was rusty and then repaired (rust always comes back)

**also should point out to a noobie (x10 if your under 25 years old, not saying your either of these, just making note) its very common for a 6/10 car to be perceived as a 9.5/10 car due to inexperience ...not knowing what your looking at...and excitement. supra's with turbos and manuals are rad, make sure to relax a bit after you drive the thing...
Thanks.
Yes I am i noobie but I live in an area where I do not really need to drive anywhere. The car is 6k but Im going to try to bargain a bit.
Its not really easy to find many cars in the bay area and I cant really travel far. Its been my dream car for a while , and im planning to use it to learn how to work on cars.
 

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Head gasket would be your biggest concern on these cars. Ask the seller if it has been replaced. Odds are it has with that many miles if it is the original engine. Look the engine over and see if the head looks like it has been removed or looks newer/cleaner than the rest of the engine. That is a sign the head has been off.
 

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depends on what your buying it for. like is it transportation or a fun car ?

6k could get you a lot newer, more reliable and prob faster as well. a chevy cruze turbo 6 speed > non-turbo supra and much cheaper / easier to maintain

for 6 k I would really want a factory turbo car. way cheaper to start with a turbo car because every little part will nickle and dime you when you do a swap on a na car
 

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That seems incredibly expensive for what it is. I got a 87 Turbo for like $2500 some years ago. Keep shopping
 

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Highly recommend a hard top though. I have ridden in a few of these and the targa cars just don't feel as good as a hardtop to me. You can put a targa brace in and I'm sure it makes a big difference but there's nothing like a real hard top for a nice solid ride. Especially if you decide to upgrade the suspension later to stiff springs or coilovers. Downside is the side window trims for a hardtop are hell to find if you need to replace them.
 

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and I highly recommend a targa :)

x10 since were talking about a non-turbo supra here. targa is a fun option to have.

like destrux says they (targa cars) feel like a wet noodle at times on bumpy roads. and they leak. but cruising with the top off on a cool night, just can't be beat imho. I just love how the car sounds with the top off too, turbo spooling, bov burping, you can hear so much more. I park inside and keep the top off for months at a time in the summer.
 

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Yeah... I found a new one. Targa top like yall said, but I will add the braces for sure. I just need something to work on quick and the bay area is dry as hell. Its basically mint cuz the car been sittin and then dailyed for a bit afterwards . Im going to get my boy take a look at it with me on friday. I dont want to get a targa but its the only one in the area .... Its okay though. How much power can a 7m ge n/a handle ?
 

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Yeah... I found a new one. Targa top like yall said, but I will add the braces for sure. I just need something to work on quick and the bay area is dry as hell. Its basically mint cuz the car been sittin and then dailyed for a bit afterwards . Im going to get my boy take a look at it with me on friday. I dont want to get a targa but its the only one in the area .... Its okay though. How much power can a 7m ge n/a handle ?
You'll be happy with the targa (as long as you're not tracking it). With the top on, it's almost as stiff as a hardtop (I'd imagine - there's a noticeable difference between having it on and having it off).

I'm pretty sure all the performance mods are aimed at the turbo cars. The NA is really slow stock, and as far as I know, there's not really many aftermarket parts available to remedy the situation. You could probably put an exhaust on it...

 

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What about this one? Turbo, MT, hard top...

 

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depends on what your buying it for. like is it transportation or a fun car ?

6k could get you a lot newer, more reliable and prob faster as well. a chevy cruze turbo 6 speed > non-turbo supra and much cheaper / easier to maintain

for 6 k I would really want a factory turbo car. way cheaper to start with a turbo car because every little part will nickle and dime you when you do a swap on a na car
I had one all bolt ons, big turbo and e85. 250hp to the front wheels was fun and 40mpg when you wanted. lol
 
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