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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys.

I found a thread here people said that you can change the belt without taking off the crank pulley but how exactly is that done? Is there a write up anywhere. My engine is out of the car at the moment by the way.
 

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LexusTico
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Ascari_2 said:
Hey guys.

I found a thread here people said that you can change the belt without taking off the crank pulley but how exactly is that done? Is there a write up anywhere. My engine is out of the car at the moment by the way.
I really don't see how you could do it. Removing it yes - cut it. Installing it... um... er.. uhhh... no.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Crap I am too tired. The other thread said cam pulley not crank. Anyone have any ideas on how to break the bolt with the engine out of the car?
 

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Stock Twins King
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I have taken my timing belt off several times by just loosening things up. But reading closer, are you wanting to know how to get the crank pulley off when the engine is out? Hmm that should be rather easy. In fact we just did it tonight on a B16. Requires putting 2 fly bolts back in, and a flat bar.
 

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LexusTico
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yeah you can jam the flywheel from turning... the thing is I don't know how tight the bolt is on a B16 but I can almost guarantee the Supra crank pulley bolt is going to be a lot tighter. you're going to have to get a buddy to help you hold the engine stand so you don't tip the whole thing over.

that or you can use one of those crank pulley holders that use a belt or chain and you won't really have to worry about the engine tipping over.
 

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I used a chain wrench and a 1/2" breaker bar with a long pipe attached to get mine off. I think you better have people to hold the stand in place while you attempt it.
 

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1.there is a plastic cover behind the crank pulley so you have to pull the pulley off.
once the bolt is loose you will need a puller to take it off and also inspect the channel on the pulley and make sure its not cracked cus it happens
2.you can use 2 pair's of vise grips to hold the pulley just wedge them under and find a hard pice of plastic to put between the plier jaw and pulley so that it doesent get scrached then get a breaker bar and large pipe.
3.you can use a impact just have to pull the radiator and what ill do is hold the cut of on the compressor so that it builds 180PSI or more then let her have it.
4. also look for oil under the sproket incase the FMS is leaking u can change it at the same time
hope this helps
augie
 

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the torque spec for that bolt is 239ft/lbs so you might not be able to get it with an impact. An impact gun wouldn't brake mine loose, that thing was really on there. I would also replace the FMS while you are there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am going to be attempting to break that bolt lose in a fw hours. I'll let you know how it goes. I am hoping that the long Husky wrench will do the trick.
 

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LexusTico
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how long is long?

i'm at the point where I need to torque mine back on... I dunno how I'm gonna do that though :dunno:
 

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Ascari_2 said:
Crap I am too tired. The other thread said cam pulley not crank. Anyone have any ideas on how to break the bolt with the engine out of the car?

Snap on sells a tool that screws into the spark plug hole and stops the piston from moving....We just did this on a friends car
 

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LexusTico
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onefastsupra said:
What is the FMS ?
scary

onefastsupra said:
Snap on sells a tool that screws into the spark plug hole and stops the piston from moving....We just did this on a friends car
front main seal
 

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We had no issues with the tool at all...Its what the tech at toyota recommended
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The damn bolt is a no go. I'll have to actually wait til the engine is back in so I can lock the crank via the rear wheels. Seems like the easiest thing to do unless someone's got some good ideas. I know I could've taken off the oil pan and jammed a 2x4 in there to stop the crank from moving but I don't really feel like doing that.
 

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Ascari_2 said:
The damn bolt is a no go. I'll have to actually wait til the engine is back in so I can lock the crank via the rear wheels. Seems like the easiest thing to do unless someone's got some good ideas. I know I could've taken off the oil pan and jammed a 2x4 in there to stop the crank from moving but I don't really feel like doing that.

onefastsupra said:
Snap on sells a tool that screws into the spark plug hole and stops the piston from moving....We just did this on a friends car
..........
 

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LexusTico
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What did you use to stop the crank from spinning? By the way you won't have much luck locking up the wheels or putting it into gear and doing it by hand even with the brakes pressed.. The car will still want to jump forward and there is also some dead play which you're going to have to overcome before the bolt even begins to take some torque to snap loose... that dead play can toss the breaker bar right back into your head :nono:
 

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Vengeance is mine
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Ascari_2 said:
The damn bolt is a no go. I'll have to actually wait til the engine is back in so I can lock the crank via the rear wheels. Seems like the easiest thing to do unless someone's got some good ideas. I know I could've taken off the oil pan and jammed a 2x4 in there to stop the crank from moving but I don't really feel like doing that.
I think you are missing what Stu was trying to say. Your engine is out of the car, so go take a piece of say 1/4 think aluminum plank. You should be able to find something similar at Home Depot. It will be around 1.5-2" wide, 1/4" thick and however long you buy it (make sure it is long enough to touch the ground from whatever height your engine is at). Now drill two hole's in it so it lines up with 2 of your flywheel bolts. Bolt it on with two flywheels bolts to the block. Now one end of the bar should be touching the ground at an angle. This will keep the motor from turning as you try and remove the crank bolt. Have some people hold the engine while another person takes a long pipe and a breaker bar and removes the crank pulley bolt. It should come off pretty easy with a long rod and a good size breaker bar. Using a 2x4 jammed into your crank doesnt sound like a good idea.
 

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Ingersol-Rand and 120 psi is your friend.
 
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