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Discussion Starter #1
I am having a little issue after mounting a new timing belt. i have mountet a racing blue timing belt from gates, and it called gates rpm belt on my 2jzgte, but can see the tap i have on the timing belt cover (have attach a picture with a red arrow), it is touching the timing belt on the outside of the belt, around 1 to 1,5 cm from the front of the engine and in, but on the timing belt, i did see it as i have a blue timing belt mountet, and i did see some blue material on the cover that goes over the cam gears and coils.. is that a comment problem when mounting another timing belt than stock? what does that tap do??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There would have to be a bad tensioner for that to slop and touch the cover. Is the guide plate on the front of the belt on the lower crank gear with the star points that the crank sensor reads off of?
Hi

that have been if my thought too but as i could turn the belt a quater of a turn, the belt should be tight enough, how can i test that?? i had no problem with the gates racing belt i had on before, i have changed the belt - tensioner - hydraulik tensione , is it possible the belt is thicker than stock belt and the gates racing belt? i have used this kit.

 

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It might just be the picture but in the one you posted of the belt on the intake side cam gear, the belt does not look like it is seated correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think i did found my problem, the new tensioner i got, the hole the bolt goes to the oil pump, the hole have a very tight clearance so when the bolt that goes thru the tension is torque to spec, the tension have not freeplay, so there are resistens , so my thought was that the tension could not be right, so i took it of put the bolt thru again on my table and again there was resistens when i pulled it forth and back in my hand, i had my old tension laying still, so i tried to put the bolt in that, and it did go thru with no resistens, and i could with no problem turn the bolt around in the hole with no resistens at all, so am i right that the hole in the new tension was not right?
 

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I think i did found my problem, the new tensioner i got, the hole the bolt goes to the oil pump, the hole have a very tight clearance so when the bolt that goes thru the tension is torque to spec, the tension have not freeplay, so there are resistens , so my thought was that the tension could not be right, so i took it of put the bolt thru again on my table and again there was resistens when i pulled it forth and back in my hand, i had my old tension laying still, so i tried to put the bolt in that, and it did go thru with no resistens, and i could with no problem turn the bolt around in the hole with no resistens at all, so am i right that the hole in the new tension was not right?
It is supposed to spin freely. The bolt in the hole is supposed to slide in and out and turn freely before torquing it and the pulley on the bracket should spin. Without the hydraulic tensioner installed, the tensioner pulley bracket should articulate up and down easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is supposed to spin freely. The bolt in the hole is supposed to slide in and out and turn freely before torquing it and the pulley on the bracket should spin. Without the hydraulic tensioner installed, the tensioner pulley bracket should articulate up and down easily.
Ok thanks, then i know for sure mine is faulty. you can get the bolt thru it, but only with some force, if you then hold on the bolt, the tensioner bracket dont go up and down easily, so for sure the clarence in the hole are not right on the bracket..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are there other that can confirm if i can reuse the idler pulley, as i have the old idler pulley laying around, from last time, if i look on the trsm on the supra, there is nothing about play, only about turning smoothness and not anything about play on the bearing. i now many will say if any doubt buy new.. but if it is possible to reuse it, i would like to, but if not, i have no choice to buy another one.
 

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