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· 7m love... dont hate.
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ok first off the crank needs to be on tdc compression stroke so turn the motor to tdc no1 till you hear air going out the exhaust then turn it another almost full turn(dont go all the way) then take a chop stick or something pull no1 cyl spark plug and put it in the spark plug hole and start turning the crank again(always in clockwise when facing the motor from the front as that's the way the engine turns when running) when the chop stick goes up and stops stop turning. you want to go slow with this part.

second there are 2 notches on the cam gear backing plate match the cam gear notches up with the backing plate notches.

put the belt around the crank gear and oil pump drive shaft then get it around teh cam gears. some times you have to make adjustments to the cam gears but just get them as close as you can.

last you should have equal tension on both sides of the belt.

turn the motor around a few times by hand to make sure the notches line up every time. or pull the efi fuse and crank then by hand line up the notches to make sure nothing slips.

there's nothing worse than getting everything together then starting it and hearing it purr for a second then turn to total shit because the timing slipped.

that happened to me a few times ago and i just ripped/ broke the upper timing cover off cause i didn't have any more coolant.
 

· BOOST IS BETTER!!
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The manual has pretty much all the info/pics needed to get the crank/cams at TDC. Once that is done the major issue is getting the CPS within its range, which may take a few/several attempts, then set it correctly using a timing light. You might want to put a little white/yellow paint on the timing notch on the crank pulley, it will make it easier to spot when setting the timing.
 

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Looking at the arched cutout on CPS where a bolt goes through and attaches the CPS to the head, is the range of timing you have w/the CPS. It is common for the shaft on the CPS(or distributor) to get moved once removed from the engine, so even if you mark the mounting bolt's location on the CPS when you go to instal it you are usually outside the timing range of movement.

When you go to install the CPS, either follow the manual, the mark you made(if you did), or the wear mark left by the bolt as a starting point. You will then turn the CPS forward/backward to retard/advance the timing to get into specs. Often you can't get it into range, so you would pull the CPS/Distributor out enough so that you can then move it one tooth forward or back depending on where the timing was, and then try to set the timing. It can take a little time, especially if you move to many teeth at a time or go the wrong direction.

I found timing the 7m a bit more frustrating than w/my other Toyota engines, but then again I kept finding leaks in the intake and bolts that were missing, which is just part of the joy of putting an unfamiliar engine together that someone else took apart.
 
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