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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I replaced my valve covers this weekend i discovered that the process can take a little time if your motor is a stock TT. I am no mechanic but I have re-stored two older hot rods and I am a newbie when it comes to supra. So if there are some mistakes in here please feel free to pitch in and of course I take not responsibility for anything that happens to your vehicle while performing these few pointers.

Anyways here are few pointers that will make removing the valve covers easier.

Tip 1.) After you have removed the spark plug cover outlined here:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/spark_plugs/index.html
Be sure to clean the spark plug alley. Chances are that you are replacing the valve cover gasket due to on oil leak so you want to be sure to have this area clean so that you can tell if you have fixed the leak in the future. I used a shop vac with a pre and post vacuum after wiping the alley down with a small rag. BE SURE NOT TO REMOVE YOUR SPARKPLUGS. Don’t want any crap falling down into the motor.

Tip 2.) Loosen the spark plug wires that run behind the cam gear by releasing the grey wire loom. Be sure not to pull on wires with excessive force. Nothing worse than tracking down an intermittent electrical problem.



Tip 3.) Loosen both ends of the hose that runs to Air Idle Control Valve.

Then be sure that the hose is not blocking the valve covers.


Tip4.) After you are done removing all the bolts and nuts on the valve cover be sure that after you remove the two nuts, that the washers are not left on the two studs.

If really needed you can use a flat head to pry a little at the ears of valve cover studs. Be careful, you can crack the valve cover as it is made of aluminum.

Tip 5.) You can create a strap by placing in two bolts from the spark plug cover and connect them with something metal bar, strap, etc. This will make removing the valve cover a little easier as it applies a more even pressure around the valve cover.


Tip 6.) For the passenger side valve cover, the rear bolt is a bitch getting to and chances are you will probably drop the bolt. Be sure to have a magnet and an adjustable socket head.
 

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LexusTico
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3,172 Posts
Very nice writeup! I'm sure it's going to help a few members. It should be stickied, good job! :bigok:
 

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291 Posts
In tip #3 when u r pushing that hard line out of the way there is a metal clip holding it. I couldnt get the clip far enough out if the way so i unbolted it(1x10mm bolt). Made it alot easier for me
 

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Remove bolts/nuts, lighty tap with rubber mallet. Done in 10 mins. Not sure whats up with the straps, removing wiring, etc..
 

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568 Posts
Good writeup. Also a prime time to replace broken coil pack clips since they seem to be aged and falling apart.
 

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Raising the BAR
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Power drill with deep 10 mm socket. 45 seconds to remove nuts and bolts, pull up slightly on the inward ports to lift the inside washers up enough to remove with your hands.
 

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MMA Addict
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Few months ago when I did my valve cover gaskets and cross tubes it was such a pain in the ass. All the hoses and rubber grommets were baked stiff and that in itself was the biggest pain.
 
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