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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I’d like to thank George “Karaki” from Raptor Racing and Robert from 935Motorsports. They helped in me in finding and getting all of my suspension parts as well as answering all of my tech questions.

I want to write this up with my experiences for those of you, just like me who a year ago understood nothing about cars but really just liked them and loved to drive them. Also to give you insight to how much work, time and money is need to do upgrades to the car. You really gotta start off researching what your options are and what your budget is. You can definitely dream big, but you gotta be realistic as well. I was criticized at the beginning when I didn’t quite have the money or the knowledge to do the upgrades but with dedication you can make anything possible.

After continually researching on the forums and asking many questions I finally decided on what I was going to do. My budget wasn’t really set, but all I knew was that I wanted to build a nice car for the occasional daily cruise and weekend warrior at the track and for local drift events. Patience is a big one when gathering the parts necessary since I didn’t just have a lump sum of money sitting around. I planned I would decide first one what I wanted and then slowly stock pile the parts until I had all the parts I needed to do the total install. Since my car was so old (20+ years) and had so many miles (319,000+ miles) on it I decided that bushings were a must. I believe that suspension is really important, power is important also, but if you don’t have the handling you aren’t going to get anywhere. I need a suspension that was gonna be pretty stiff, aggressive and responsive, some thing not leaving me wanting more. I decided on the higher spring rates since I knew that one day I was going to be running a 7mgte in my car and plus getting used to a stiff ride would be better then rethinking lowering springs. Since I was going to be doing extensive upgrading, I wanted only the best that I could really get, this way I knew I would certainly be happy with the handling of the car. So that meant I really had to dish out the money for the good stuff I knew it was gonna be worth it. All in for just the suspension parts I spent a good $1600. But you better believe it was worth it.

Alright so I finally got around to installing all of my suspension parts that I had been researching and collecting for about a year. I also installed a new rack and pinion, ps pump, Sparco steering wheel with hub along with a nice set of new shoes. I still have a Precision Gear Clutch type 2 way LSD to install soon, and that very same week I bought my friend’s 1987 MkIII Supra Turbo for $700.

Alright it’s a long list but here is what I bought. My new suspension consisted of:
(Karaki at Raptor Racing)
Dobinson Standard height rear springs 250lb/in
Front and Rear Addco sway bars with hardware
Super Pro Rear Sub-frame bushings
(Sean Chung from CS forums)
8 way adjustable Rear KYB AGX Mustang shocks
Super Pro rear control arm bushings
(Robert at 935motorsports)
T3 Camber Plates
T3 35mm Roll Center Adjusters
Ground Control Coilovers with Eibach springs 450lb/in
4 way adjustable front KYB AGX MR2 struts
PST full front bushings;
Control Arm
Strut Rod
Sway bar hardware
New ball joints
New outer tie rods
(SupraWes from CS forums)
TSC Rear Strut Bar

This was other stuff besides the suspension that I though was necessary:
(Don L from CS forums)
16x8 Racing Rims
4 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport tires 225/50ZR16
Momo Hub 7711
(Precision Gear)
Power Brute 7.5” clutch type 2-way LSD
OEM Toyota LSD parts;
90366 35023 77 Inner Pinion Bearing
90368 50006 Carrier Bearing
90311 38010 Pinion Seal
90311 38011 Side Seals
41182 22011 Cover Gasket
90179 18001 Pinion Nut
90366 30078 Outer Pinion Bearing

Yes it’s a Momo hub and horn button, they guy I bough the Sparco steering wheel from didn’t have the Sparco horn button he had a Momo one so I took it, and Sparco doesn’t make hubs for my car.

1987 MkIII Supra Turbo

The install was pretty straight forward, I’ll list links to topics on the CS forums that was great info for the install. Took me a good week to get everything installed, shouldn’t really take that long, I just didn’t have some of the tools and needed some help from the local machine shop.

I started out with the rear since I had all the parts necessary to do the install first, plus to me the rear seemed to be a little simpler then the front was. There’s a couple ways you can disassemble the rear to install everything, I decide that I would take out the entire rear suspension including the differential and part of the drive shaft. You’ll also need to disconnect the brake and e-brake lines in order to get it completely out, disconnecting them is easy, and it’s right near where the drive shaft needs to be disconnect as well. You’ll also need to disassembly the exhaust from the cat back since you need the pull the sub frame out and the exhaust is underneath it. From there I just dropped it and start to disassembled the rear control arms behind the car, make sure that you make a mark on the toe adjustment so that when you put it back in it’ll be good enough to get you to the alignment shop. I then pushed out the 20+ year old 300,000+ mile bushings that were badly worn and replaced them with the nice Super Pro Bushings; you better believe it was a tight fit to get back in. I figured out that it was easier to first put in the bushings and then insert the metal sleeves, if not the bushings seems to be a little bit bigger with the sleeves in and are harder to insert together into the control arms and sub frame. Here’s one mistake that I made, when pushing out the old sub frame bushings there is a small bolt and bracket that holds the bushing in, you must take that off in order to get the bushings out, ask me how I figured that out? Put everything back together and get ready to put it back up into the car. This was probably the hardest part because you gotta line up the large chassis bolts that mount the sub frame bushings as well as the differential mount and then bolting it up. Of course there’s different ways to do this but I figure this would be the fastest way. Of course I had the help of crew to align, rise it up and mount it back up into the car. Next just install I installed the AGXs and Dobinson and raised both control arms up and install the rear Addco sway bar. Once back in, I bolt everything back up don’t forget your brake lines and your e-brake, double check everything just to make sure. Once in I took it out for a test drive, it was nice and stiff, just how I wanted it to feel like.


11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The front end was just as straight forward are the rear was just some cutting that need to be done and some fabrication of the strut assemblies but otherwise easy. Taking out the front struts, I used hangers to hold the brake calipers up and since I was taking apart everything it was easier to unbolt the sway bar, strut bar, outer tie rod in order to pry the control arm down and pull out the strut assemblies. Don’t forget to loosen the nut on the top of the strut assemblies while they are in the car, it’s much easier this way, I found out the hard way and had to reinstall them to get the leverage I need to break the nuts loose. Install the spring compressors and disassembly everything including pulling the I decide not to cut the entire spring perches off and reweld them lower to accommodate the full size sleeves from the GC Coilovers kits because the sleeves weren’t all that much longer, that saved me a lot of time and troubles since I’m not a welder. Instead I just cut off part of the spring perch and trimmed them down to fit the sleeves. I cut the sleeves to length and fitted them on the strut tube. From there I inserted the AGXs struts with the washers as spacers and put on the T3 camber plate and prepared them for the install. Mean while I took off the front control arms and pushed out the bushings. The ball joints in the control arms were the toughest part for me. They were tucked in the control arms pretty well, but since I was throwing them away anyways I didn’t mind taking the hammer to them. Getting the new ones in, that was a tough one, for that I had the machine shop help me out a little bit. After that I took out the sway bar and strut bar mounts. The holes in the members where the sway bar goes through need to be enlarged in order to fit the sway bar ends since they are a little bit wider. A dremel tool made short work of that. The mounts will also need to be trimmed on the corners to fit inside the mounting members. After all the different parts where finished I installed the Front Addco sway bar along with the mounting members with new strut rod bushings, then the control arms with new bushings, steering knuckle, T3 roll center adjuster, and then finally the strut assemblies came in. It’s nice to have a buddy thread on the camber plates from the top while you hold the strut assemblies from under. While I was under the front I also installed the new rack and pinion. Put on the new rims and tires and dropped my supra for measurements in height and camber. After a few trys I got the car right were I wanted it. Next up was the simple install of SupraWes rear strut bar. And yes I’m missing the front strut bar; just waiting till the production of the infamous LJM strut bars again - the best that money can buy!!!

The PS pump replacement was a tough one. I couldn’t get the pulley off of the original ps pump. The replace one had the pulley still attached along with the mounting bracket. So I figured I’d just take the entire ps assembly off and replace it with the new ps assembly. The mounting bolts to the mounting bracket of the ps pump were a tough one to get to since they’re really tuck up under there. Once installed I was glad to have my power steering back. After that installed I put in the new Sparco Suede 383 steering wheel with the Momo 7711 hub. I needed the steering wheel puller to get the stock one off, and it’s really just that retain nut on the hub and you get a brand new Sparco suede competition steering wheel, gosh it sweet, it goes so well with car and the new suspension set up, plus I don’t fell like I’m driving a truck. BTW the Sparco 383 I got is 330mm way smaller then the stock Supra steering wheel which measures out to about 15 inches IIRC.

Alright and finally the finished product!!!

And next to my MkIII Supra Turbo

Here are the links that I believe helped me the most, you’ll find a lot of good info here, and if not ask questions that’s what the forum is here for.

Online TSRM

SupraWes – AGXs, Coilovers, Addco Sway Bars, Super Pro Bushings, and much more

SupraWes – 5 new Suspension and brake articals

Williamb82 – Coilover writeup

Williamb82 – True Trac writeup

wjanusz – Total Suspension Rebuild

zank – Ground Control and AGXs installed

SilverMk2 – Precision Gear Power Brute

Raptor Racing

Rabid Chimp


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