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Discussion Starter #1
I was rolling in my car hard last night (w/ the trac fuse in and turned on) and when I drove the car the next day the trac fuse/engine light and red triangle light on the tach came on simultaneously).

When I shut the car off and turned it back on the red triangle light on the tach was still on then the trac fuse/engine light came on again simultaneously.

I cheked the trac fuse which was not burned out. I pulled EF Main 1$2 to reset ECU. Pulled trac fuse, checked battery terminals and still the same issue.

Car is not overheating, no oil leaking, and EGT looks fine.

Any ideas what it could be? How do I get those damn lights to go off?

Help please :)
 

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Fuck those lights!

I BPU'd my car and got SO sick of those lights that I took the goddamned bulbs out. Do you have any idea how nice it is to have an idiot-lightless dash? Yank those sum-bitches!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FYRARMS

FYRARMS:

Dude I hear ya...I am contemplating the same shit. Did you also have the red triangle on the Tach come on? I can't turn that one out.

What do you think it could be? Perhaps I damaged the traction controll system...if so I don't care. I just care about my fricken engine. What else could it be? Emissions? I have a 94 like you.
 

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I asked my boys at Sound Performance. They said it had to do with the traction control. I also aced my airbag steering wheel and replaced it with a Sparco. That gave me more idiot lights! :mad:

Finally, I yanked the stupid bulbs, which was a pain in the ass. The "!" light is there only to say: "Hey, moron, something is wrong". But the thing is, if something IS wrong, you have various other idiot lights to warn you (oil, temp, engine, etc.).

FUCK 'EM. Yank them and save them in case other bulbs in the dash ever burn out. I've yanked:

"!"
TRAC
airbag light
door ajar light

Car runs fine. Dash looks nice. Lights are GONE. :D
 

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Check my other post on the reply... this is most likely what happened with yalls car also... pretty common.... for people that take out there dash a lot... this WILL fix about 99% of the problem that people has with those trac/trac off/triangle warning coming on at the same time or on and off or half on half off....good luck...

or search : Trac & Engine light keep coming on

http://www.supraforums.com/supravb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12199
 
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I have a 94tt too. I also just recently experienced that problem. It happened after I did a really BIG burnout. I'm not sure if any of these things are related to the problem, but then the next day my car wouldn't start. Turns out the neg terminal of the battery was just loose. (I had a shop working on my car, and they must have loosened it.) All I did was wiggle it and then the car started again, but then the trac and engine light came on and off, all random. I tried to see if there was a pattern like everytime i took my foot off the gas or up hills or acceleration, high boosting or what, but nope, it just came on at random times, even at idle. I checked out the pos terminal of the battery, that was loose, so i tightened it. But when tightening it , i kinda bent it out of shape, and i knew that it didn't contact too welll with the terminal, so i took it off, bent it back into shape so that it would have good contact. Problems been off ever since. I was also afraid that I would loose all my boost and AFC settings, didn't loose it though, and the terminal was off (while i was bending it back to shape) for a while too, resetting the ecu all at once. BTW, how do you pull the bulbs, my airbag light is super annoying, i reset it (using the diagnostic trick. touching certain AB, and TE (something like that) to the neg terminal of the battery). It worked for a while, but i don't think my car has an airbag, so a couple of days later it came back on, but i had it off for a while.
 

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Re: Fuck those lights!

FYRARMS said:
I BPU'd my car and got SO sick of those lights that I took the goddamned bulbs out. Do you have any idea how nice it is to have an idiot-lightless dash? Yank those sum-bitches!
That is the worst advice you could give. You want to yank your lights - go ahead. Then when something goes wrong that the computer could detect, you'll just keep driving until something blows up. Then you can pay big bucks to fix it.
iturk-
If you get a MIL - check the code and FIX WHAT IS WRONG. If you don't, and continue to drive with the MIL and/or check engine light on, you will also never know when something else goes wrong.
 

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You dumbass...

Re-read my advice AGAIN. Did you even see which lights I removed? I didn't say pull the low oil level or temperature light if it comes on. Tell me how something bad is going to happen if you pull the fucking "!" light. I'll say it again for you since you missed it...

THERE ARE OTHER MORE IMPORTANT LIGHTS THAT INDICATE A REAL PROBLEM. EXCESSIVE IDIOT LIGHTS ARE FOR IDIOTS.

The "!" light indicates a problem.
The "trac" light IS the problem.

Why do you need 2 lights to tell you there is a problem. If you can't see an orange "trac" light or "engine" light on your dash, you should get glasses.

"Gee, my TRAC button is on, but I can do a long burnout." You have a traction control problem. Duh. :rolleyes: Guess that doesn't need an idiot light to make you aware of a problem.

If you like all the useless, excessive idiot lights, go buy a Buick...

iturk: You only need to be concerned with the "engine" light, "low oil", "temperature", and anything that correlates to the actual engine operation. The ONLY time my "engine" and "trac" light came on simultaneously was when the weatherpack connector that attaches to the TRAC butterfly assembly was disconnected. Check your connection there. It did NOT affect my engine function in any way, just more annoying lights. Check the codes that were set when the lights came on. You may find that a small EGR hose has a leak/crack. This is another popular problem. Again, no engine function problems, and I heard the exhaust leak myself with no need for more annoying, excessive lights...
 

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When you "yank" the bulb on the MIL (!), you have done EXACTLY what I referred to. It tells you to check for a code - you may not get ANY other warning.
So, you say you have separate lights/guages for problems with:
crankshaft position sensor
camshaft position sensor
O2 sensor
ECM
intake air temp
AFR lean or rich
sub TPS
MAF sensor
TPS
EGR
fuel pump or fuel pump ECU
.
.
.
and a few others.
Now, re-read my advice again. I only had to read yours once to know it was bad - but, hey, yank 'em all.
 

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Geezus...

I would think the majority of the possible malfunctions you have listed would result in a noticable change in vehicle performance. Whether it be engine knock, backfire through exhaust or intake, misfire, stumble, black or white exhaust smoke, etc. Golly, I wonder how I managed to keep 10-second and 9-second DFI and Speed-Pro cars alive for so many miles with no IDIOT light? :rolleyes: It's a wonder they didn't explode, huh?

I have more important things to do than check and clear codes because of some annoying light that comes on 40-50% of the time the car is running, just to tell me: "Wow, those cam gears and VP C16 leaded fuel aren't agreeing with me."

You must have been a BIG fan of "Knight Rider", huh? :cylon:
 

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Re: Geezus...

FYRARMS said:
............Golly, I wonder how I managed to keep 10-second and 9-second DFI and Speed-Pro cars alive for so many miles with no IDIOT light?

You probably have some skill and luck.


I have more important things to do than check and clear codes because of some annoying light that comes on 40-50% of the time the car is running.

I take it back - you apparently only have luck if your MIL would be on "40-50% of the time":rolleyes:
(I suppose if you are in the hospital for something serious, you'll take the same approach for all the monitors and sensors? You wouldn't want to be annoyed by all those annoying lights and beepers.)



You must have been a BIG fan of "Knight Rider", huh?


Not at all.

As I said before, please do unplug ALL your lights and sensors. I suggest the same approach with your computer.
Just don't give such bad advice to other people without explaining the downside - and there is a BIG one.
Now - I have more important things to do than waste time on this.
 

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"I take it back - you apparently only have luck if your MIL would be on "40-50% of the time"

I run 22psi at the track. To avoid timing retard at high rpm I run 116-octane leaded race gas. Your buddy the MIL comes on, and I don't enjoy clearing the damned thing every time I use such gas. 40-50% of the time the car is running, I am using race gas. THAT'S why it is on that often, Einstein. :rolleyes:

"Now - I have more important things to do than waste time on this. "

Right. You better go clear your MIL (Mississippi Idiot Light). :dunce:

Amazing that someone would depend SO much on that damned light. What would people do? They might actually have to perform routine maintenance and use diagnostic equipment! GASP! :eek:

Guess it won't matter anyway as soon as I finish installing this Speed-Pro unit over the winter. :p

Happy motoring, Ralph Nader... :gay:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
code error #71

Guys -- I checked my engine code error and #71 came up....EGR malfunction.

Why after having the EGR diabled after 5 weeks would the engine light come on for the EGR? Why not after the first minute? Also the trac and ! are still on yet I have now pulled the trac fuse.

Any idea on how to at least clear the engine codes and turn off these damn lights short of pulling them?

Also I have not checked to see if the soldering has come loose. I will check that next.
 

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Re: code error #71

iturk said:
Guys -- I checked my engine code error and #71 came up....EGR malfunction.

Why after having the EGR diabled after 5 weeks would the engine light come on for the EGR? Why not after the first minute? Also the trac and ! are still on yet I have now pulled the trac fuse.

Any idea on how to at least clear the engine codes and turn off these damn lights short of pulling them?

Also I have not checked to see if the soldering has come loose. I will check that next.
When you say the EGR is disabled, do you include the resistor mod? If so, perhaps the resistor has come loose. It should take care of the light if it is working, whether or not the plate is in.
If you pull the ECU fuses for 20 sec or so, it will clear the lights. If they come back and still indicate EGR, check the resistor again. BTW - the EGR code doesn't trigger immediately, mine took a couple of days.
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #16
VickSupra,

<<When you say the EGR is disabled, do you include the resistor mod? If so, perhaps the resistor has come loose. It should take care of the light if it is working, whether or not the plate is in.
If you pull the ECU fuses for 20 sec or so, it will clear the lights. If they come back and still indicate EGR, check the resistor again. BTW - the EGR code doesn't trigger immediately, mine took a couple of days.
HTH>>

I am not certain if that includes the resistor mod. I had Altered Atmophere do the mod so I need to ask them first. I pulled the main fuses and the lights just came back on.

Where exactly is the resistor located? Sorry for such a seemingly dumb question.

Thanks
 

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iturk said:
VickSupra,

<<When you say the EGR is disabled, do you include the resistor mod? If so, perhaps the resistor has come loose. It should take care of the light if it is working, whether or not the plate is in.
If you pull the ECU fuses for 20 sec or so, it will clear the lights. If they come back and still indicate EGR, check the resistor again. BTW - the EGR code doesn't trigger immediately, mine took a couple of days.
HTH>>

I am not certain if that includes the resistor mod. I had Altered Atmophere do the mod so I need to ask them first. I pulled the main fuses and the lights just came back on.

Where exactly is the resistor located? Sorry for such a seemingly dumb question.

Thanks
Nah - it's not a dumb question - I have to ask a lot of them to find stuff out.
Look at mkiv.com here to read about this mod.

This describes different ways to do the mod. One of these describes how to defeat the check engine and MIL lights. Look here to see that.
I think I would then call Altered Atmosphere and ask them if they removed the egr or just put the plate in - and specifically if they put the resistor in to defeat the lights. I would hope they put the resistor in - look at the mkiv stuff to see where it goes.
Good luck.
 
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