[blown1]

I have nate johnsons old car. 1994 single billet th400 supra. I am making 730 on e70 currently and i am running toyo r888s. they are 315s. My suspension consists of billstiens and koni springs i believe. Traction is my problem as of now. Wanted to see if you guys have any tips on suspension or any other advise.

thanks
adam

 

[piwko4]

Get a ProEFI...

 

[blown1]

there are no tuners in mn fimiliar with that setup, it was definitly a option i was pondering though.

 

[Nick 95 6sp]

I'm running Racelogic TC with my AEM v2. Racelogic is relatively easy to tune especially since the parameters for the MkIV have been well developed and publically shared for many years....there is a Racelogic Yahoo group and Stu Hagen and others have often shared the data files. I've had the RLTC since I was basic BPU. It works great on the street and on roadcourses but I have no drag racing experience with it.

Short of traction control, all you can do is get tires that are softer and need less heating up to hook than the R888's. Maybe later this week I'll shut off my RLTC and see how my 315 R888's handle my meager 620whp.

 

[RikTT]

Hmmm maybe step over to a 15's DR setup ?

 

[zmw]

traction is no doubt a problem with these cars - get a proEFI and be done. FWIW my car will break traction at over 100mph, and my car is "only" 630 whp.... on my R888s after about 60mph i'm good...

 

[Craig Bush]

traction is no doubt a problem with these cars - get a proEFI and be done. FWIW my car will break traction at over 100mph, and my car is "only" 630 whp.... on my R888s after about 60mph i'm good...

this is becoming a controversial subject... there is another thread in which folks claimed r888's are holding 2nd gear at 800whp. in that thread, i commented that i found that surprising because my car would smoke 315/30 18 MT DR's at the top of 2nd, at the same power level. your anecdotal experience with the r888's (holding 600'ish whp in 2nd) is much closer to what i'd expect; i just can't see the r888 holding more power than a MT DR.


craig

 

[scoooby slayer]

well im on pirelli p zero 305/30/19 760 rwhp 636 rwlbft and my car will break traction every time in 3rd gear coming onto boost or mid gear at 6000 rpm and punch it and it still spins hard, i basically drive at 1/4 throttle to get traction then punch hard from top of 3rd up.

 

[blown1]

appreciate all the feedback guys. warmer weather will help also current temp is 35 in mn, lol this is summer i guess. Was also looking into some coilovers to squat some of the shock but not sure how much it will help.

 

[Hurrakaine]

A TRD LSD helps, you will still spin, but you will spin both wheels, instead of the car rear end coming out to the right.

 

[blown1]

both wheels are spinnning, but you are right it does fade to the right.

 

[blown1]

trd is next on the list anyway. The th400 and 373s are rpm happy on the freeway.

 

[T6Rocket]

M/T 275/40-17 DR's are the minimum I would ever run on a Supra. They still handle okay. Sure, not great in the rain, but you shouldn't be driving it in the rain anyway.

Got to have traction to actually feel the power of the car. Cant feel g's spinning or punching it at 60 MPH!

Al

 

[agm]

this is becoming a controversial subject... there is another thread in which folks claimed r888's are holding 2nd gear at 800whp. in that thread, i commented that i found that surprising because my car would smoke 315/30 18 MT DR's at the top of 2nd, at the same power level. your anecdotal experience with the r888's (holding 600'ish whp in 2nd) is much closer to what i'd expect; i just can't see the r888 holding more power than a MT DR.


craig

i suspect alot of people omit sometimes critical information such as heat when they make statements about traction.

for example my 285 yokohama avs sport, at 630rwhp hook 3rd pretty well in august, and to replicate that early in the day or in spring/autumn i need to do a big rolling burnout in 2nd gear to get anywhere close to that traction.
then all goes to scat once the weather cools down.

i put my car away once it starts spinning 4th gear on dry pavement.

so what are my tires good for? never really hooked 2nd but i do hook 3rd but also spin 4th? lolwut

and for the record i suspect i am deprived on g-forces. ive never launched on slicks so the most ive experienced is a rolling burnout in 2nd and fully planting 3rd gear and i got tunnel vision.
i cant imagine hooking 2nd gear :crazy:

 

[Craig Bush]

^^^two points:

1. burn-outs can be counter-productive with street tires; you often exceed their ideal operating temp resulting in WORSE traction

2. 2nd gear may not accelerate any harder than 3rd b/c the car is under less load and probably generating less boost/power


OP, if you're overpowering r888's, you likely need a drag radial. traction control is another option. a point to remember regarding TC though - it does not actually increase traction! only "more" tire (bigger or stickier compound) does that. TC just manages the available traction better, so you spin less and, hopefully, accelerate faster.


craig

 

[twitch69187]

short of traction control, all you can do is get tires that are softer and need less heating up to hook than the r888's. Maybe later this week i'll shut off my rltc and see how my 315 r888's handle my meager 620whp.

vid??

 

[Wreckless]

Lowering the car with stock rear upper A-arms, and not having the car re-aligned, almost always results in too much negative camber.
Even if you have the car properly aligned to Lance spec, you can often max out the stock hardware before you get anywhere near appropriate camber values. This problem gets worse the more you lower the car.

It doesn't matter how wide or sticky your tires are if you're not even keeping a flat contact patch in a straight line.

I would strongly suggest either fitting the original rear springs to raise your ride height in the rear, and thus get back to where you need to be on the stock camber curve to get a flatter contact patch, or buying a set of PHR or Titan adjustable rear upper control arms so that you have the camber adjustment you need to flatten out the contact patch.

Even on stock springs & stock ride height, adjustable upper arms are a big improvement since you can dial in *positive* camber so the camber curve makes the tire 0* under acceleration/weight transfer. While running slightly positive camber in the rear would hinder cornering performance, Being a TH400 car I'm assuming that drag racing & highway pulls are what you're concerned about so such tradeoffs are negligible.

 

[HellBringer]

For what it's worth, my car hooked in 2nd gear on 275/40/17 MT drag radials on a 60 degree day at 26psi (about 660WHP). It would actually hold 1st gear well enough that while it would spin, it was controllable; however, if I banged 2nd gear like I meant it, it would send the tires up in smoke. If I gingerly hit 2nd, or just punched in 2nd it would hold pretty well. I never had any issues in 3rd gear up. That was on the bone stock suspension with the rear camber pushed as close to zero as the stock hardware would allow (about -0.04 degrees). Now that I'm on HKS coilovers and dropped about an inch the car is more spin-happy then it used to be at low boost on pump gas. I haven't run higher boost yet and I sold the DR's -- planning on getting R888's for my CCW's. At close to $400/tire I hope they perform as well as the hype...