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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Does anyone know what needs to be done in order to fit a TRD strut bar into a 2JZGE engine?
The main issue, of course, is that the air intake that goes over the engine causes it to hit the bar.

I've dug around the forums but most info is really unclear or a janky job, and the images (to help show what they are talking about) blanked out / expired links.

I haven't played with these before and would like to avoid making permanent holes etc to the car just to fit it in. My first thoughts are with some sort of a spacer to lift it up, but I don't have any experience with this sort of stuff so the info would be really helpful in deciding whether or not it's all worth the effort.

"But why don't you just get XYZ strut bar? It's wayyy better!"
Mostly for the aesthetic boxy design. It's also TRD, and gives that sweet sweet handling improvement too.

The TRD Strut BarThe bar in its usual 2JZ-GTE engine bayThe bar magically in a 2JZ-GE engine bay
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I had the same question, not thinking about clearance issues with the ge. After some research I decided to just shelf it until my gte swap. But if you're dead set on installing it looks like some washers will give you the additional space.
 

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Does anyone know what needs to be done in order to fit a TRD strut bar into a 2JZGE engine?
The main issue, of course, is that the air intake that goes over the engine causes it to hit the bar.

I've dug around the forums but most info is really unclear or a janky job, and the images (to help show what they are talking about) blanked out / expired links.

I haven't played with these before and would like to avoid making permanent holes etc to the car just to fit it in. My first thoughts are with some sort of a spacer to lift it up, but I don't have any experience with this sort of stuff so the info would be really helpful in deciding whether or not it's all worth the effort.

"But why don't you just get XYZ strut bar? It's wayyy better!"
Mostly for the aesthetic boxy design. It's also TRD, and gives that sweet sweet handling improvement too.

The TRD Strut BarThe bar in its usual 2JZ-GTE engine bayThe bar magically in a 2JZ-GE engine bay
View attachment 267808 View attachment 267809 View attachment 267810
The engine bay on the right is a JZZ31 SC300 aka Soarer, not a Supra. The suspension towers in the SC300 engine bay are slightly higher than the Supra's which is why the TRD bar fits over the GE.

For a Supra, you can stack spacer rings and widen the holes on the TRD tower bar to make it fit, but it takes a decently high spacer stack to make it work and it does require drilling/widening the holes in the TRD bar.
There were a few Japanese tuning shops that made front strut bars for the 2JZ-GE Supra, but they tend to look strange as they don't go over the engine, but toward the front of the engine to clear the GE intake plenum. You can find those on Yahoo Japan auctions every once in awhile but prices are high there these days.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
For a Supra, you can stack spacer rings and widen the holes on the TRD tower bar to make it fit, but it takes a decently high spacer stack to make it work and it does require drilling/widening the holes in the TRD bar.
I wouldn't mind drilling into the strut bar as I plan on keeping the GE intake, so this is something definitely worth considering. Apparently, when going NA-T with the GE engine you can keep the top end the same (if you don't want to push over 400 HP) while making some minor holes to the block for oil flow. If this is all true, then getting the TRD strut to fit would be really nice especially since all the work put into getting it on won't be wasted with a GTE swap. Legend says that it may even have a little low-end boost to performance too that the GTE doesn't. :unsure:

So would I need some of these spacers? Does anyone know the mm required and where to find them?
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Or are we talking about actual washers that lift up each bolt? Perhaps a combination of both?
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But at the end of the day, it's possible to lift the strut bar to clear the intake (without resting on the intake) and without it hitting the bonnet/hood when closed after adding a few spacers/washers right?
 

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But at the end of the day, it's possible to lift the strut bar to clear the intake (without resting on the intake) and without it hitting the bonnet/hood when closed after adding a few spacers/washers right?
The stock 2JZ-GE intake and top end can support 700+hp so long as you can make a big enough turbo fit between the distributor and the intake piping. That and have a proper standalone ECU and fuel system changes to support that of course (which routinely eliminate the distributor and that is absolutely a good thing)
Around 550-600hp you'll start needing more boost to make a given HP number and you'll see the powerband start falling off noticeably above 6000rpm.
But yes, if you wanted a fast spooling, high response, good off-boost torque producing setup that's good for 400-500hp with minimal fuss (on E85 anyway) a NA-T 2JZ-GE with the stock 10:1 compression and stock cams/intake manifold can work very well. Paired with a turbo like a Garrett G30-770 or similar small, fast-spooling turbo it'd be a lot of fun to drive.

As for the TRD bar, because of the angle of the shock tower, I'd honestly find some of the trim rings like those found in the MK3 Supra to act as a washer for the shock mount studs/nuts. The diameter and bolt pattern is the same as the MK4 and Soarer (in fact, you can use entire front coilover assemblies from a MK4 in a MK3 and vice versa, just not the rears) so using a few of those as spacers would work best IMHO. From there you'll need to 'egg' out the holes in the TRD bar itself so the studs will line up. Since the TRD bar is a fixed one piece deal, it'll take some trial and error to get the holes right wider flange nuts and using nice stainless hardware/washers can cover up any wider holes etc for a clean look. But less is more with changes like this, start with one spacer and then try two, etc.

You may also need to grind away some of the underside of the TRD bar where it goes over the plenum to allow space for engine movement etc without rubbing on the bar.

The other and final variable to keep in mind, is a thicker headgasket will elevate the cylinder head accordingly in the engine bay so if you go NA-T with a thicker headgasket you'll need to allow for that clearance as well.
 

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I just wanted to add that there is one strut brace specifically made for the GE. It is made by a Japanese company called Okuyama Carbing.
I would highly recommend to go with that brace when staying with the stock GE intake manifold.
I have that brace on my car and it literally fits like a glove on my SZ Supra. In addition to that I also find it pleasing to the eye and it leaves enough room for adjustment of coilovers or in my case even the Tein EDFC.
It also comes with a brake stopper for RHD cars.
Here is a link in case you are interested and also a picture of my brace installed (aluminium version painted satin black).

 

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@Wreckless mentioned it and I didn't realize this was such a head scratcher for so many folks
The strut bar comes with some washers, or mine did - different washers of different thicknesses.
I paid close attention to what the little japanese diagrams said in terms of which washer goes where. Some are thicker than others.... But yeah I put a a trim ring under the bar, plus the little washers like the diagram said. I'm not sure if the trim ring I'm using is from another car or another strut bar or what...

There's minimal (maybe 1/2") clearance between the intake manifold and strut bar. There's pictures of it somewhere on this forum I'm sure. I can take more pictures if I need to @Vorukanu
 

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I just wanted to add that there is one strut brace specifically made for the GE. It is made by a Japanese company called Okuyama Carbing.
I would highly recommend to go with that brace when staying with the stock GE intake manifold.
I have that brace on my car and it literally fits like a glove on my SZ Supra. In addition to that I also find it pleasing to the eye and it leaves enough room for adjustment of coilovers or in my case even the Tein EDFC.
It also comes with a brake stopper for RHD cars.
Here is a link in case you are interested and also a picture of my brace installed (aluminium version painted satin black).

Carbing IMO are the best strut braces money can buy for both GE and GTE applications. I had one on my old NA Supra and when I got my TT I swapped the same brace over. Fantastic product. More expensive than others though. The sting of its initial purchase cost will fade in time but a quality product will last the life of your car.
Exhibit A.


There are many manufacturers that produce strut braces for NA Supra's other than Carbing. Cusco also offer a strut brace for the NA Supra. Lots of smaller more 'boutique' manufacturers but their brand names don't spring to mind and I'm not even sure if they still manufacture them.
 
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Carbing IMO are the best strut braces money can buy for both GE and GTE applications. I had one on my old NA Supra and when I got my TT I swapped the same brace over. Fantastic product. More expensive than others though. The sting of its initial purchase cost will fade in time but a quality product will last the life of your car.
Exhibit A.


There are many manufacturers that produce strut braces for NA Supra's other than Carbing. Cusco also offer a strut brace for the NA Supra. Lots of smaller more 'boutique' manufacturers but their brand names don't spring to mind and I'm not even sure if they still manufacture them.
I LOVE that strut bar. Who did you buy that through?
 

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I LOVE that strut bar. Who did you buy that through?
I really couldn't tell you and even if I could it probably isn't relevant as that was 12-14 years ago now.

There are still suppliers around though. They are mostly ex-Japan so you're probably in for a wait with shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The stock 2JZ-GE intake and top end can support 700+hp so long as you can make a big enough turbo fit between the distributor and the intake piping. That and have a proper standalone ECU and fuel system changes to support that of course (which routinely eliminate the distributor and that is absolutely a good thing)
Around 550-600hp you'll start needing more boost to make a given HP number and you'll see the powerband start falling off noticeably above 6000rpm.
Great info!
But yes, if you wanted a fast spooling, high response, good off-boost torque producing setup that's good for 400-500hp with minimal fuss (on E85 anyway) a NA-T 2JZ-GE with the stock 10:1 compression and stock cams/intake manifold can work very well. Paired with a turbo like a Garrett G30-770 or similar small, fast-spooling turbo it'd be a lot of fun to drive.
Pretty much what I am after. I'll keep note of that turbo too.
As for the TRD bar, because of the angle of the shock tower, I'd honestly find some of the trim rings like those found in the MK3 Supra to act as a washer for the shock mount studs/nuts. The diameter and bolt pattern is the same as the MK4 and Soarer (in fact, you can use entire front coilover assemblies from a MK4 in a MK3 and vice versa, just not the rears) so using a few of those as spacers would work best IMHO. From there you'll need to 'egg' out the holes in the TRD bar itself so the studs will line up. Since the TRD bar is a fixed one piece deal, it'll take some trial and error to get the holes right wider flange nuts and using nice stainless hardware/washers can cover up any wider holes etc for a clean look. But less is more with changes like this, start with one spacer and then try two, etc.
You may also need to grind away some of the underside of the TRD bar where it goes over the plenum to allow space for engine movement etc without rubbing on the bar.
If it's possible, I'll probably give it a go. I better roll up my sleeves and grease up my elbows, it sounds like a weekend project. Thanks for all of the info by the way!!


@herb & @iwantablackRZ
Thanks for the suggestions! However:
"But why don't you just get XYZ strut bar? It's wayyy better!"
Mostly for the aesthetic boxy design. It's also TRD

@Wreckless mentioned it and I didn't realize this was such a head scratcher for so many folks
The strut bar comes with some washers, or mine did - different washers of different thicknesses.
Yea, it's the result of having no experience. As mentioned before, I haven't played with those parts so I am not familiar with them and how they connect to each other. I haven't even bought, let alone seen, the real strut bar. I'm just trying to get as much information as I can before throwing money at people's "Bro it's genuine TRD trust me, never installed, brand new in box. Don't worry about that dent over there, you can polish it off, trust me."


Exhibit A.
.
Is... Is that the rear Supra badge stuck on the engine cover? Hahaha that's a great idea


Alright, in that case, I will begin my hunt for the bar and then fiddle around with the installation until its on. Ill keep this page posted with how it turns out and hopefully get it to become a one-stop shop for people thinking of adding a TRD strut bar to their NA Supras. Thanks for all the comments!
 

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Is... Is that the rear Supra badge stuck on the engine cover? Hahaha that's a great idea
It's actually just a generic Supra decal. My 'new' Supra has the same albeit it's black.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's actually just a generic Supra decal. My 'new' Supra has the same albeit it's black.
Where did you find that? I can't seem to find any decently sized stickers. The only one that comes up are the calliper stickers, and the rest are the "Supra" rear badges
 

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Where did you find that? I can't seem to find any decently sized stickers. The only one that comes up are the calliper stickers, and the rest are the "Supra" rear badges
I got it on ebay. You can try messaging a seller (either on ebay or elsewhere) about making something up for you in your preferred size/colour.
 
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Ive always wanted a TRD or Carbing strut brace, as theyre the only ones I have seen for the Supra that are a solid piece, and dont have a centre bar bolted to the mounts on top of the suspension.

I have a Carbon bonnet though, and its lower on the inside face than a factory bonnet, so I would need to test fit before pulling the trigger. Trying to find a Supra in the same city with a specific strut brace aint easy lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
There's minimal (maybe 1/2") clearance between the intake manifold and strut bar. There's pictures of it somewhere on this forum I'm sure. I can take more pictures if I need to @Vorukanu
Could you please do that? This is on a GE engine right? And the hood closes?
 

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Could you please do that? This is on a GE engine right? And the hood closes?
yes but my hood is a seibon OEM style hood - so there’s no matting or padding. I sold my original hood maybe a decade ago to a fellow SF user to complete a yellow car that was a build thread

I very much regret selling my original hood and it has since been destroyed

I’ll go take some pics
 
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