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bust that car into hundreds of small parts and ship it (get an ebay seller account)

you are sitting on a gold mine of used parts that will sell. if I was in your shoes, that is what I would do. easy 4-6k in sales. not exaggerating at all, have done exactly that myself 2x in the last decade.

the money coming in from the used parts then can be used to buy shiny new parts for the other one. the trick is to not sell the handful of things you need for the other one.
 

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I figured the head gasket was coming as I read through you thread. Madison is right money to be made in parts. I got some from him to get ours running. I soon will be doing a auto to manual swap. It took a while to find a donor car, but it was easier than just parts and cheaper.
As for your car I would change the head gasket on your red car and drive it some more if you enjoy the car. We had a rod nock after bringing our car back to life and purchased a JDM 7m motor with a warrantee. Your plan to swap to a 2jz will give you new problems with your experience. I would look at dong something like that as you get funds to buy the engine then start parting the red car. Or if you don't need the spare parts for your cars sell them now for some funds.
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Guys, I have over 150psi in all 6 cylinders. I have white sweet smoke coming out of the exhaust,seems to be going through coolant lile crazy, also overheats, also runs rough randomly (also had the milkshake on the very first oil change after it had been sitting for 15 yrs) My 2nd oil change which it ran for about 1 hr had no milkshake... Is it possible to have a BHG with good compression?

Obviously I believe it's a BHG i just want confirmation before I replace it. Does anyone have an answer?

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No need for confirmation.

the milkshake oil tells you everything.
 

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intermittent / very small failure

stop driving before you take out the bearings / cams. milkshake oil is awful to run on, very hard on things

your compression is good, and if even across all cyl I would just slam a HG and arp studs in it and be done. have a machine shop verify the head is square and give it a light plane to clean it up.

be very careful taking the head off and work the bolts out in the opposite pattern of installation. I always step the head bolts loose in several passes, staring with 45 degrees on each bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just drained the oil again, total milkshake, headgasket operation a go.

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Discussion Starter #27
bust that car into hundreds of small parts and ship it (get an ebay seller account)

you are sitting on a gold mine of used parts that will sell. if I was in your shoes, that is what I would do. easy 4-6k in sales. not exaggerating at all, have done exactly that myself 2x in the last decade.

the money coming in from the used parts then can be used to buy shiny new parts for the other one. the trick is to not sell the handful of things you need for the other one.
Madison I like the idea of selling the maroon one to fund the white supra, I'm hoping this headgasket job goes well and I can post it for sale and drive it until it sells.

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Discussion Starter #28
Update -

So I got the head off, both times I took the turbo and the lower intake manifold off coolant fell out on the ground below. Lol. Anyway I don't see any signs of Blown Head Gasket, do you? I'm thinking throw it back on and re torque.
BHG 1.jpg
BHG 2.jpg
BHG 3.jpg
BHG 4.jpg
BHG 5.jpg
BHG 6.jpg
BHG 7.jpg
BHG 8.jpg
BHG 9.jpg
BHG 10.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So i got quoted 140$ for the head to be resurfaced, the guy i talked to specified that's with everything taken out and a bare head.. My question is.. How hard is it to dissasemble and reassemble the head? Is it worth it to just pay more or what? I'm pretty clueless on this topic. Could someone please shed some light on the subject?

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yup throw some of the rtv black on her, re-torque and send it

jk. you should be able to plane the head with just the cams removed.

first bhg / supra I did that (like 20 year ago haha) I know for sure I didn't take the valves out or pay to have that done (disassembly and reassembly valvetrain is prob 4x the cost of a simple resurface)

the motor in my current car --A rod knocker I rebuilt with a new crank / pistons -- I just checked the head with a straight edge and hit it with an sos pad. old school. that was about 10 years ago and the felpro mls / arp studs are holding up just fine with ~14psi boost

should prob add those pics make me want to remove that motor, put it on a stand and take the oil pan off to get all the crap out of it. and check a rod/main and thrust bearing. and change the rear main. but that could just be my ocd+those pics. I just can't see cleaning that with the motor in the car
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Just dropped the head off, took the cam caps off, took the cams out, left the buckets/shims in the head, and the machine tech guy pointed it out because I didn't even notice, a real nice older gentleman who does it out of his house; he is going to make sure to keep the buckets/shims matched to the valve.

I got quoted for 190$ to do a pressure hardness test and a resurface.

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Discussion Starter #33
So guys, kinda thinking outloud. With the head off I'm kind of tempted to pull this motor fully, pull the white car motor and trans and then replace the clutch and mate this motor with the r154 and put it back in the white 5 speed targa.

How hard would that be? What do you guys think of that idea?

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I think it depends on what you want. You can definitely throw some parts together from both Supras to make a Supra that will run, but then you're left with one that doesn't. If you want longevity and a solid nice 2 cars, you may want to just get rid of any time limit you set for yourself. Grab some sand paper, engine de-greaser, rags, seal sets, and slowly renew everything you can. Will take work and might seem daunting, but you'll have piece of mind later on. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
So probably will just put the head back on, drive the car, attempt to get it running smoothly for awhile and then make a decision then, anyway here is some update. Got the head back from the machine shop, the guy helicoiled 2 exhaust stud holes for me (were totally stripped) and cleaned it up good. Also cleaned and sand blasted my valve covers, getting ready for paint. The first pic is actually after cleaning the valve covers with solvent and scrubbing.

Also been running through some of the files in the car, I got these 2 cars from the original owner (who has now passed away), have the receipts for both these cars when they were bought brand new from the dealership, also service records dating back to that point. Pretty cool, starting to appreciate them more and more.

valve cover pre sandblast.jpg
valve cover post sandblast.jpg
head post clean.jpg
head post clean 2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just learned yesterday that my place of work had a paint room, temperature controlled/ventilated so I took advantage of it, could fit a whole car in there.

paint room1.jpg
paint room.jpg
painted valve covers.jpg
 

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how did your machine show clean that cylinder head ?

if they used blasting --soda blasting-- those valves need to come out and the valve guides cleaned very well. if not, like they cleaned it with the valves in, material will have migrated down there (possibly ruining the seals) and could heat up and stick a valve / cause a problem

same if they dunked it inside a sonic cleaning table.

both of those should only be done with it disassembled.

paint room nice !! looking like your making good progress
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Madison, I'm not sure.. but he is a very experienced gentleman, I'm really not worried about it.
Also, cleaning my block and noticed some indents by the water ports. Do any of you see this as an immediate issue and if so is there anything I can do to mitigate that? Also what's your preferred method for cleaning the block and making it baby smooth? Thanks...

block deform1.jpg block deform 3.jpg block deform 2.jpg
 
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