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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Toyota Supra, formerly known as the Toyota Celica Supra, made its first debut in 1979. Available to car enthusiasts in both Japan and the United States, the original Mark I Supra came equipped with a 110hp, 2.6L SOHC Inline-6 Engine, and was originally made to compete with the Datsun (Nissan) Z. Fast forward to 1993, the 4th generation Mark IV Supra underwent a huge transformation that set the Japanese supercar apart from any other vehicle on the road. This included a 3L, inline-6 engine that dished out a whopping 316hp engine with 315 ft/lbs of torque from the factory and a timeless figure with styling that can outshine the design of many new cars to this day. Although Toyota ceased U.S production in 1998, Supra has become known as one of the greatest forms of automotive engineering ever created, with many still able to push 1000+ hp on a chassis that is more than a decade old.

Unfortunately, the PAINT condition on some of these cars is a completely different story. With Hot Import Nights just around the corner, the owner brought over his 1995 Renaissance Red Toyota Supra for preparation. He had told me that the car was never detailed during its 14-year existence and hadn’t been washed in nearly a month. After taking a good look around the car and seeing what APPEARED to simply be a lot of swirls that the car accumulated over time, we went ahead and scheduled a 10-hour paint correction that we predicted would be enough time to remove them….Boy, was I wrong! 5 minutes into the polishing stage and I realized that the swirl marks found throughout the paint surface actually concealed an ABUNDANCE of random in-depth scratches. These defects quickly turned the original plan of 10 hours into a hardcore, extensive detail that ended up taking me 20 man hours in less than a day and a half. This was definitely THE most frustrating and exhausting detail I’ve done so far…But at the same time, it was a GREAT learning experience that definitely tested my efficiency, skill, and how much I’ve truly learned about detailing up to this point. Finally, it was a pleasure to be able work on one of my favorite cars of all-time, and there were several instances during the detail where I had to remind myself that there was actually a Supra in my garage :lol:. HUGE thanks to Jinno for his efforts in helping me document the job, my brother Greg for spending nearly as much time on the wheels as I did on the car, and to the owner for giving me the opportunity to work on it!

Overview:
-Car dropped off at 12:30PM
-Wheels Removed, fender wells cleaned with Meguiar’s APC+ (4:1), Meguiar’s Slide-Lock Brush, #0000 Grit Steel Wool then dressed with Chemical Guys Trim Shine and Protectant
-Wheels re-mounted, underside of hood cleaned with microfiber towel, engine cleaned with Meguiar’s APC+ (4:1) and Meguiars Slide-lock brush, then dressed with Chemical Guys Trim Shine and Protectant
-Rinse down small areas around the car, presoak with Meguiar’s APC+ (20:1) and agitate lightly with Meguiar’s Slidelock brush or Q-Tip.
-Clean exhaust with Meguiar’s APC+ (10:1) and #0000 Grit Steel Wool followed by Meguiar’s NXT All Metal Polish and a Microfiber towel.
-Wash car using 2-bucket method w/ grit guards, Dawn, and 2 sheepskin wash mitts
-Bring car inside garage and blow dry
-Begin to compound using M105 w/ 6.5” Purple Foamed Wool Pad with a spritz of water halfway through the polishing cycle.
-At the same time, wheels are removed again and hand polished one at a time during the duration of the detail.
-Follow-up with Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (PO83) on a White Lake Country Pad
-Sleep @ 2:30AM
-Wake up @ 6:30AM
-Compound areas that were not touched the previous night followed by Menzerna SIP on white.
-Go around entire car again with 3M UltraFina on a Lake Country Blue Pad.
-Bring car outside, rinse off polishing dust, bring back inside, and blow dry.
-Ensure all crevices are free of leftover polish residue using a Q-Tip and Microfiber Towel
-Denatured alcohol wipedown to ensure complete removal of any fillers.
-Wax using Wolfgang’s Fuzion on a Meguiar’s Yellow Foam Applicator Pad
-Remove wax using Meguiar’s Ultimate Quick Detailer with a clean microfiber towel
-Clean windows using Stoner’s Invisible glass and a clean microfiber towel
-Car finished by 1:45PM

12:30 PM - Vehicle Inspection & Complete In-Depth Decontamination

Here is what the car looked like when it had first arrived. 14 years worth of exposure to the elements and everyday living really set its toll on the Supra’s appearance.

















 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·






This is how it was on every single spot on the car’s surface. Whenever you moved, the defects would move with you. It kind of makes you dizzy if you stare at it long enough. But before I was able to tackle the surface of the paint, I went ahead and removed the wheels for an in-depth cleansing of the wheel wells.



The surface of the plastic protection was completely faded, while years of grime and dirt were embedded onto the surfaces of the suspension and brakes.











The control arms were FILTHY and completely covered in grime.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I started out by presoaking wheel well with Meguiar’s APC+ 4:1, and agitated everything with a dedicated Meguiar’s Slide-Lock Brush.



The inside of the brake calipers were not forgotten.



Once those were cleaned, I tackled the control arms using the Meguiar’s APC+ and some #0000 grit steel wool.



After a couple minutes of some hard scrubbing, the entire wheel well was rinsed down and Chemical Guys Trim Shine Protectant was used to restore the black finish on the fender liners.






Other side.



Once all four wheel wells were cleaned, I proceeded to clean the wheels.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Meguiar’s Hot Rims All Wheel Cleaner was used for the wheels, and Bleche Wite Tire Cleaner was used for the tires. Meguiar’s Slide Lock Brush and a Tire brush were used as well.







Cleaned. You can’t really see it here, but there were still those little weird streaks seen in the previous pictures that wouldn’t get out, so I knew that there were many hours of wheel polishing to come.



The process was repeated for the other 4 wheels before reinstalling them in order to wash the car. By this time, the sky became overcast and I felt confident it would be safe to wash it outside the garage. The first thing I started with was the engine bay. I couldn’t help but notice how dirty the underside of the hood was, so I decided to give it a quick wipedown with a microfiber towel to remove all the slimy dirt from the openings.







The engine wasn’t too bad, only some water spots and dust to clean up.





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·


I soaked the engine with Meguiar’s APC+ (4:1), agitated with a Meguiar’s Slide-Lock Brush, and dressed with Chemical Guy’s Trim Shine and Protectant once dry.

After:








With already nearly 3 hours into the detail, I finally was able to wash the surface of the paint. Before I tackled the large panels of the car, I made sure all the small areas were clean in order to avoid them getting missed. Meguiar’s APC+ (20:1) was used along with a Meguiar’s Slide Lock brush and several Q-Tips to get into the hard to reach areas.









 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gas Cap:











Trunk area:





During this time I realized that I didn’t clean up the exhaust. Here’s how it looked when it came in.



I rinsed the car down and used Meguiar’s APC+ 10:1 with #0000 grit steel wool, followed by Meguiar’s NXT All Metal Polish. The results are in the after pics.



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Finally once all the small areas were cleaned, the usual two-bucket method w/ grit guards were used along with 2 sheepskin wash mitts and Dawn as the wash medium.





After being rinsed down, the car was brought inside my garage and clayed while it was still wet. Surprisingly, there wasn’t much baked on surface contamination.





Headlights and glass were clayed as well





At this point, the car was completely stripped of any oils and contamination. No beading was present at all.



This also showed the true condition of the paint.





 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·










Here’s a shot of the hood:





5:00 PM - Compounding and Cutting Stage

Considering the fact that the car had never been polished, the amount of defects present, and the hardness of the car’s clear coat, I knew M105 + Wool would be needed to remove the defects. After one pass, there were still some scratches remaining:



After 2 passes:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Unfortunately, this panel was one of the easier panels to correct. Here’s a 50:50 shot of the hood after 2 passes with M105/PFW





Most of the swirls and oxidation were gone, but look at how many deep scratches were still left! At this point, I gave the owner a call had him swing by the house. There was no way I was going to give him back the car looking like that, even if it was still better than before. Luckily, he gave me until 2pm the following day.

Throughout this time, Greg was with me ensuring that each and every wheel was as good as possible. He spent nearly 15 hours hand polishing with Meguiar’s M105 followed by Meguiar’s NXT All Metal Polish.



Each section of the car had to be compounded at LEAST twice, but some sections needed 4-5 passes with a small spritz of water halfway through the polishing cycle to give it more cut. Here’s the gas tank/rear fender area.

Before:


During:



After:





Completed:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The rear fender also needed several passes to get completely corrected:

Before:



After 1 Pass:



After 2 Passes:



After 3 Passes:



After 4:




The headlights also had large amounts of oxidation. These were taken care of using the Porter Cable, Meguiar’s M205 on Orange, followed by Plast-X. Notice how cloudy the face of the right headlight housing was.




I did the opposite side to show the difference.

During:


After:


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The both of us stayed up until 2 AM working to get as much as we could get done before the next morning. This was the first detail I did with my new lighting install in the garage. It helped TREMENDOUSLY.







By the end of the night, the car was finally showing some signs of revival







Under the Brinkmann:



At this point, we decided to call it a night.

6:30AM - Finish Cutting Stage, Begin Refining Stage

After a short 3 ½ Hours of sleep, we got back up at 6:30AM and worked quickly to pick up from where we left off. After compounding with M105/PFW and SIP/White, I finally went one last time around the car with Ultrafina on Blue to remove any hologramming and further enhance the gloss of the paint.






 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·


I put Greg on the porter cable once he was finished on the rims. He used M105/Orange followed by M205/White for the smaller areas on the car.



Now, at this point there was so much dust on the car that it was hard to see the progress:







I decided to bring the car outside and hose it down to reduce any risk of inducing new scratches into the paint during waxing. The car was looking beautiful.





I was surprised to see beading already present on the car, even without any wax on.



 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After being rinsed down, the car was brought back inside the garage and blown dry once again.





Greg and I went around the car one more time to ensure that there was no longer leftoever residue present.





12:45 PM - LSP Application, Cleanup and Finish

Finally satisfied with the condition of the car’s paint, and just in time too (it was already 12:45), I waxed the car using Wolfgang’s Fuzion on a Meguiar’s Yellow Applicator Pad, removed using Meguiar’s Ultimate Quick Detailer and a clean microfiber towel, then applied Meguiar’s Endurance Tire Shine to the tires, and Invisible glass to the windows.





After photos!

Wheels Before:



After:
 

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amazing job. eventually when I have a couple of days off I have to detail my car too. Have all the equipment but no time. Have you guys ever used 1z's paint polish.
 
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