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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
(re-edited May, 2007)

Finally have finished my stereo conversion on a relatively low budget. I want to thank Steve T for the ideas and his freind Wes who has designed a fantastic speaker upgrade for the MKiV. I mostly appreciate Steve Ishii for helping hammer out the stock wiring plug-n-play system.

The Idea here is using all of the OEM wiring. Purchasing 3 sets of Toyota Harness adapters for about $50. 1) Integration Harness 2) 10-Pin Speaker harness 3) 6-Pin Speaker harness . I can show you what they look like and you can probably get them on Ebay. Or direcltly from Scosche (more expensive) http://www.scosche.com/what_fits.aspx ..Or...METRA


The difference between a stock OEM system w/o Amp, and the system w/Amp is the actual speaker harnesses that are behind the dash. These "ARE NOT" in any EWD from Toyota. Thanks to Steve Ishii for pointing this out. They do this so it is more plug and play at the factory when installing a system with an Amp. So they put these speaker connectors behind the front panel, just behind the Trac buttons. They just plug in the speakers (wires) into this junction harness that feeds directly to the Amp under the seat. These are called IH1, IH2 and IH3. We are not messing with the IH3 because that is the SubWoofer, and we are keeping that in tact, and using the OEM Amp under the seat to run the SubWoofer ONLY.

Here is the EWD showing the harnesses:



Here is an actual picture, with the completed harness. See the IH1, IH2, IH3 in the center right of the picture:




These Harness carry all of the speakers, front and rear. So all you have to do is buy the matchng harnesses, and then you can *snap* these together.


Here is the complete list of items needed, basic color codes, Pin #'s Note that you will need all harnesses in order to have automatic antenna functions.



Here is the picture of the completed wiring harness, including the Integration 15 Pin, the 10 Pin and the 6 Pin (IH1, IH2) Speaker Harnesses




Here is the actual wiring diagrams for the "do-it-yourself" Basically for any other type of head unit: This one is compliments of Steve Ishii. Note here that I have revised this wiring diagram to now show a installation of an Antenna switch. I was unhappy that the antenna would go up and stay up, even when playing the CD. This is NOT how the OEM radio works. If your playing a CD on the OEM radio, the antenna stays down. With this diagram, you can control the antenna whenever you want with the switch. You can see the switch on the last picture of the actual radio installed in the dash.




So this is the whole systems wiring. Total cost, $50 and some time.

_________________________________________________________________

Now for the actual Speaker upgrades. First is the speakers that Wes has built for me and for Steve Theodore. These speakers can handle full 100% volume with 0 distortion. Wes has retrofitted the OEM front door speaker boxes with these 4" Peerless 830516 CD Woofer W/ 20MM tm02j6 Audax tweeters W/ crossover.

The new rear speakers are rated as high. They are Audax VP160OGO. FYI, when I took out the rear OEM speakers, they were stamped "15W" which tells you the overall rating of the OEM system.

Front Speakers:


http://www.97supraturbo.com/Radio Conversion/New Door Speaker 3 (Large).jpg


REAR SPEAKER:







Now for the Head Unit that I just got.
I was lucky to get the brand new Nakamichi CD 500 HU. These are rated at 47W per channel into 4 ohms. Including a SW Out, which we are not using because we are using the OEM Amp to pump out all its got just for the SW. This new unit is MP3 compatible, and I have already made 1 CD with 150 songs on it. The Nakamichi also has 10 different color display settings to match any OEM car display colors. I am using Grn/Grn, and Amber/Grn for now.

Here are a couple of pics of the finished install:

Green Green:




Green Red:



So, that is my install. This system pumps plenty enough bass for me. Enough so the rear view mirror shakes, and I can feel it in my chest. I can crank it full up without any distorion.

Total cost depends on the Head Unit of course, and I cannot recommend what you would decide on. I picked this Unit because it was a single DIN, so I could install new guages, its MP3 capabilities, and its Illumination schemes.

But I paid around $275 for about everything except the head unit.
Also forgot to mention that you will want a single DIN Box to cover the lower section if you switch to a single DIN radio. I bought one at CarToys for $30 to find later they are $10 on Ebay:

Or call Elmhurst (Curt) He has them as well.
Part# 55521-16030 pocket 1 din plastic list $5.33

I glued a flat peice of plastic over the box opening so I could have a flat area to velcro on new guages


Hope this is of some use for for anyone thinking of a *mid* use style of upgrade.
 

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Hi Stu,
Looking good! I can't wait to hear it at a meet. You might want to let the 97-98 owners know that they will have to source a set of front door enclosures from a 93.5 to 95 car, if they want to follow your example, since the 97-98 cars don't have them. I guess Toyota had to make up that $10k drop in MSRP somewhere. ;)

Best regards,

Ken
 

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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #6
Ken,

Jeesh, I totally forgot to THANK YOU for the door panel enclosures. On my amazement, and as mentioned, the 97-98 do indeed have the front door enclosures. So I have an extra set~lol! What I am interested in , is if anyone can produce a photo of a rear speaker enclosure. It is still speculation if there is one at all. On my rear speaker, you will see that it has a heavy guage polypropulene enclosure hot glued formed to the frame. I think that is there version of an enclosure.
 

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ˆê”Ô ƒGƒAƒ�ƒgƒv‚d‚q
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Stu,

Thats great! I'm so glad everything worked out as planned! Good Job!!! I bet the wiring was amazingly simple once you had all the parts in your hand. Can't wait to hear it myself one day......

Ishii
 

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Stu Hagen said:
Ken,

Jeesh, I totally forgot to THANK YOU for the door panel enclosures. On my amazement, and as mentioned, the 97-98 do indeed have the front door enclosures. So I have an extra set~lol! What I am interested in , is if anyone can produce a photo of a rear speaker enclosure. It is still speculation if there is one at all. On my rear speaker, you will see that it has a heavy guage polypropulene enclosure hot glued formed to the frame. I think that is there version of an enclosure.

Hi Stu,
LOL-you're very welcome. That's very interesting. I will ask my installer if there were any rear enclosures, but I doubt it. He gave me everything else back that he pulled out of the car, so unless he reused them, there are none.

Ken
 

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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #11
rwmotorsports said:
Where did you pick up the headunit from Stu? Also.....I sent you an email....
Didnt see your email yet?

I bought my radio on ebay. I watched for it for a week or so, and when it got to $420, I bought it. This guy had 4 total. I did a google search the other day, and none popped up. So they seem to be rare? They are brand new, so maybe it will take awhile for them to get into the market.
 

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feeding your habit
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would you suggest using those speakers with a stock system (stock amp/hu)?

I have the 93-96 rear speaker boxes ready to install for my 97 (which has just the sheetmetal like you have) Do you think they are worth installing?
 

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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #16
MoogieBoogie said:
Just curious, but what is the difference between doing this and using the Metra harness to connect your new aftermarket headunit to your existing speakers?
I guess there is "no" difference because this is exactly what is being done. So I am confused. We are using the Metra harness(s) to instll the new head unit, so we don't have to cut any wires. If you are wondering about the amp, this system allows the use of the OEM under seat amp to run the sub woofer only.

U do need a total of 3 Metra harnesses to do my method. One for the HU, and (2) for the usage of the OEM speakers. ( 1 for the car speaker input and 1 for the HU speaker output)
 

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Stu Hagen said:
I guess there is "no" difference because this is exactly what is being done. So I am confused. We are using the Metra harness(s) to instll the new head unit, so we don't have to cut any wires. If you are wondering about the amp, this system allows the use of the OEM under seat amp to run the sub woofer only.

U do need a total of 3 Metra harnesses to do my method. One for the HU, and (2) for the usage of the OEM speakers. ( 1 for the car speaker input and 1 for the HU speaker output)
Now I understand. I didn't realize that you were retaining use of the stock amp for purposes of using the stock subwoofer.

Thanks for the clarification.
-Brian.
 

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ˆê”Ô ƒGƒAƒ�ƒgƒv‚d‚q
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MoogieBoogie said:
Just curious, but what is the difference between doing this and using the Metra harness to connect your new aftermarket headunit to your existing speakers?

I'll explain in a little more detail why the wiring is done this way, for everyone who doesn't quite see whats going on.

If your Supra has the external amplifier (under seat amp) The connector (R6) that connects to the factory radio has no connection to the speakers.

The speakers connect to the under seat amplifier via IH1 and IH2.

If you just used that connector (amp integration connector) the factory under seat amp will Power the main speakers. But because the new aftermarket radio has more power than the factory amp, Stu wanted to power the main speakers with the new aftermarket head unit, So.....

....the speaker wires that come from the aftermarket headunit go into the Connectors IH1 and IH2 via the normal 6pin, 10pin aftermarket radio harnesses which you would normally use to put a aftermarket radio into a NON externally amplified 6pin, 10pin toyota stereo system.

But, since we are still using the factory underseat amplifier to power the subwoofer, there are a few wires that need to go through IH1 and IH2. Thus you have to buy the other harness kit (theft repair kit) the connectors that normally plug into the factory Toyota non externally amplified 6pin, 10pin radio.

This is a really cool set up becuase not a single wire in the car needs to be cut. You can wire everything up on a bench and just plug it into the car!

Have a look at the first wiring diagram again and you will see how easy it is!!!


Ishii
 

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WOW!! Ishii, I am glad you chimed in. The idea to run the stock sub by the factory amp and speakers by an aftermarket head unit is sweet :bigthumb:
 
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Ok, I think I kinda understand this, it basically just bypasses the stock external amp and sends the power and signal directly to the speakers via a aftermarket deck (vs. just sending signal to amp, and then amp powering speakers). The reason I ask is I just had a aftermarket Alpind deck installed at Best Buy and it is horrible! The speakers hiss and have static in the background and POP whenever the car is turned off. Also, when the volume control is on 1 it is quiet, 2 is normal listening, 3 is loud, and 4 is maxed out! (when my volume control can probebly go to 30 alteast. I don't have the subwoofer, but I really need to do something about the current setup, so is this the harness I would need or is it even simplier without the use of the subwoofer? I have read everything on aftermarket decks in here and i'm still a little confuned on what I need to correctly wire it in. Thanks for the help!
 
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