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Awesome write up(s)! But I had a few questions after installing and reading through this thread.

So just to be clear, the ONLY reason to have the female 6 pin and 10 pin connector is for the power "fishing pole" antenna? because I did not install that connector (unintentionally) and as it seems everything works fine, except for the antenna raising. But, I did plug in the power antenna cable into the back of the new HU, so was that pointless to plug it in?

That brings me to another question. I have this extra wire with no where to plug into on the back of my HU, it looks like a smaller version of the power antenna wire/plug. I saw people mentioning an R6 cable that doesn't need to be plugged in, is it this one? Here's a picture of the wire I am talking about.



And now my final question. Before installing my radio I did continuity on the harness to make sure everything was connected/soldered well and to the proper wire/connector. When it was installed I noticed that it did NOT shut off when I turned the car off. Now, what I could do is turn Source OFF, then turn the display off. But that seems a little odd to have to do that every time. And I am not even sure if that shuts it off completely, I'd guess not. For reference the head unit is a pioneer FH-X700BT. If anyone has any ideas as to whether it's normal, or if something is wrong I'd love to know!

Thanks,

Brett
 

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whooohoooo!
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That brings me to another question. I have this extra wire with no where to plug into on the back of my HU, it looks like a smaller version of the power antenna wire/plug. I saw people mentioning an R6 cable that doesn't need to be plugged in, is it this one? Here's a picture of the wire I am talking about.
hey brett, the "extra wire" is for the diversity antenna (the glass/roof antenna). instead of using the good old fishing rod (powered) antenna, you can use this adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Antenna-Adapter-Cable-DX-A1122/dp/B001RENI2A?tag=viglink21083-20

and plug it into the "extra wire" then into the HU. i just did this to mine and it works great; also b/c my fishing rod was stuck in the "up" position so this way i didn't have to buy a new powered antenna assembly, just the adapter, and i just shoved the rod back into its hole lol. but be aware - good reception may depend on your area tho.

my source - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?639214-antenna-adapter-cable&highlight=diversity+antenna

sorry - i don't know the answers to your other questions lol. i'm trying to bypass the factory amp also (using aftermarket HU), still trying to understand all these wiring diagrams...
 

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Bumping this again- apologies. I have installed my aftermarket stereo, but am getting no base and the speakers sound tinny. I'm guessing the harness I used did not remove the amp from the setup. Before I go in and take everything back out, does this sound like the type of issue I would have if I didn't properly remove the factory amp?

Apologies for the vague/lazy question- it's cold as hell out there and I don't wanna risk frostbite if it's not necessary :)
 

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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #144

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I dont know if anyone else had an issue with the male and female connections. It seems that I wired it up backwards because I thought of female being a female plug, not a female pin. As such, everything was reversed on my setup. Trying to redo it now.

*Edit - Alright I got it all switched and it seems to be working fine. Not sure if it matters but I dont really need the antenna so I didnt wire it up and I also left out the two female plugs (with male pins) and it seemed to work just fine. Not sure if they were only needed for the antenna setup or not.
 

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Cant believe I have never seen this thread before. Stu is the man as usual. I was a senior in high school when this thread was started haha. I just installed a BNIB oem subwoofer and found out I have no power bc my R6 is not plugged in to aftermarket head unit. Looks like I will be ordering these harnesses to power my Polk Audio front and rear speakers via the head unit and hook power up to utilize the factory amp and new subwoofer.
 

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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #147
I have had many people contact me not really "getting" it as far as the wires to IH1 and IH2. This is a pretty good detail of how it should look like before inserting into the car.



This shows completed with the addition of the 15-Pin integration plug (where the OEM radio plugs into)

 

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Stu,

Thank you for all the help on this wiring since most of this isn’t available on the drawings from TIS.

I do have a few questions as they confuse me a little.

1. Why does the Aftermarket HU Speaker out get split into the factory amp input and the speaker input? Basically it’s going into 2 areas and which does it power up?
2. The RCA outputs of the Aftermarket HU gets tapped into another amp input. Which actually provides the signal to the factory amp?
3. I’m planning to get an aftermarket HU and have the RCA out power an aftermarket amp. I want the aftermarket amp to power the speakers but not cut any factory wiring and not rewire the entire car.
a. Which plug doe the amp speaker outs get wired into? Assuming IH1/2 Female side
b. Do I need to provide power, accessory power, ground and remote to the IH1/2 Male side for the power antenna?
Thanks for all your help.
 

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Stock Twins King
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Discussion Starter #150
Stu,

Thank you for all the help on this wiring since most of this isn’t available on the drawings from TIS.

I do have a few questions as they confuse me a little.

1. Why does the Aftermarket HU Speaker out get split into the factory amp input and the speaker input? Basically it’s going into 2 areas and which does it power up?
2. The RCA outputs of the Aftermarket HU gets tapped into another amp input. Which actually provides the signal to the factory amp?
3. I’m planning to get an aftermarket HU and have the RCA out power an aftermarket amp. I want the aftermarket amp to power the speakers but not cut any factory wiring and not rewire the entire car.
a. Which plug doe the amp speaker outs get wired into? Assuming IH1/2 Female side
b. Do I need to provide power, accessory power, ground and remote to the IH1/2 Male side for the power antenna?
Thanks for all your help.
Sorry missed this...are your questions answered?
 

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040 hardtop turbo
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What's wrong with connecting the ground wire to the ground from the 15-pin? Won't it be cleaner? I've noticed Stu pics show it going to a ring terminal to invariably to screwed down to something.
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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What's wrong with connecting the ground wire to the ground from the 15-pin? Won't it be cleaner? I've noticed Stu pics show it going to a ring terminal to invariably to screwed down to something.
I think this is typically done because the size of the 15-pin wire is unknown, and a thicker/shorter ground wire is always better, especially as you increase the power demand with a more powerful aftermarket head unit.
 

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I think this is typically done because the size of the 15-pin wire is unknown, and a thicker/shorter ground wire is always better, especially as you increase the power demand with a more powerful aftermarket head unit.
Understood. Yeah based on some further google research it seems that the original harness ground wire may not provide adequate resistance and can cause audible interference and some type of "grounding loop." It wasn't supra specific but seems to be noteworthy.



Is there a preferred chassis ground that is solid to use? I noticed it didn't come up in Stu's writeup.
 

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some type of "grounding loop."
A ground loop occurs when the power that is supplying the component (radio for example) can find its way to ground through a signal cable (like speaker cable or more commonly, patch/RCA cords), then through another component like an amp. It produces a noticable hum in the signal. The effect is minimized by making a good solid ground closer to the original component (radio) so that it doesn't "choose" to go the longer route.

Is there a preferred chassis ground that is solid to use?
No. Pick something solid, close and clean (scrape the paint away). As I recall, there a few good grounding points just aft of the shifter, and one just under the radio.
 

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040 hardtop turbo
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Just to preface I'm using a Sony XAV-AX100 and stock trash speakers lol.

I hooked everything up and used one of the 10mm bolts holding down a tiny ABS computer bracket (located right in front of the no.2 trac ecu I believe it is) for the HU's ground. It's right there when you remove the radio.

Only the HU is using that ground, I have the stock amp using the same ground it's always had from the 15-pin plug.


I reconnected the battery turned everything on.
1. There is a minor but noticeable hissing or buzzing sound coming from the speakers.
2. Random sharp noises that sound just like R2D2 come and go.

I played some music to test, and all the speakers are working and so is the stock subwoofer in conjunction with the new HU. Could it be the ground is no good? Or could it be too much wattage to the stock speakers? The adapter harness seemed pretty straight forward, I doubt I wired it wrong otherwise it wouldn't work right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated :D

EDIT: It’s definitely a bad ground. I fired up the car and drove around and the sound gets louder with revs. Lol just my luck, the one piece of information that Stu left up to us is where I have fudged up. Story of my life.. I’m going to go and buy a volt meter and watch a YouTube video and find a good place to ground this thing.
 

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^ I also have a Sony XAV-AX100 (love it) and I think my ground is in the exact same spot as yours, from the way you described it. However, I am not using the factory amp (JL Audio amp in the back) or speakers (replaced with Infinity years ago).

I'm not sure what R2D2 sounds are (in relation to a car stereo), but I have no hiss or buzz in mine. You said the sound gets louder with revs. Louder, or faster?
 

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040 hardtop turbo
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^ I also have a Sony XAV-AX100 (love it) and I think my ground is in the exact same spot as yours, from the way you described it. However, I am not using the factory amp (JL Audio amp in the back) or speakers (replaced with Infinity years ago).

I'm not sure what R2D2 sounds are (in relation to a car stereo), but I have no hiss or buzz in mine. You said the sound gets louder with revs. Louder, or faster?
Nice, its a great radio. It looks stock which is even better :D But yes, its like an electronic whining sound, "noise" I guess is the best generic description.

So the first unusual thing is when I turn the key to acc or start and everything's on, after a couple seconds a single loud electronic zipping sound from the speakers happens which I think is the amp powering on. Then that sets in motion my lackluster audio experience lol. At idle there's a very subtle hissing/buzzing noise what have you, and after a few minutes there's constant bad electronic "tearing" sounds.

Im thinking maybe its the amp, maybe its not well grounded but then again it's grounded from the 15-pin. It could be the HU but you're saying that you have yours grounded in the same spot most likely.

I got the volt meter so going to do some detective work. I doubt its the HU overpowering the stock speakers, wouldnt make sense for it to generate this noise. It's in my nature to over-complicate simple things, so im curious if the solution was in front of me the whole time or not lol.

Video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwqp2g9kreecbhm/2018-12-02 19.59.00.mov?dl=0



EDIT/UPDATE: So I used a multimeter and its a solid ground. So if the HU ground isn't to blame and I'm still getting noise its probably a ground loop because the amp which is getting grounded from R6 (15-pin). According to google the textbook solution is to ground everything into one so I'm going to cut and resolder. If this doesn't work then its probably too advanced for me.
 

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I run a kenwood HU, Kenwood 901x, and Focal components.

For the HU i run multiple grounds, 1 with the stock 15pin, and I split it to connect to a solid clear of paint spot around the shifter location.

For the AMP i mounted it in the stock location. I ran the ground to one of the bolts under the seat. I sanded the paint so the amp will have a clean ground. No issues with my setup.
 

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040 hardtop turbo
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I think I know what's going on.

Double checked my harness with multimeter, all the wires are solid. Combined it all into one ground. Interestingly it didn't fix the problem, but a noticeable improvement for those who aren't sure about using a single ground to prevent ground loop.

So knowing all my connects are good, and after some google research people swear that grounding the RCA's works like a charm. I double checked the schematics and it shows the RCA's getting grounded from Pin#11 on R6, BUT Metra uses Pin#12 (signal ground) which has been covered in this thread as well. So rather than taking wire and wrapping my RCA's inputs to ground them I'm going to try to switch it to Pin#11 and go from there.

Also as others have mentioned, super cheap Metra leaves out the orange dimmer wire. So I'm going to de-pin another harness and make my own I guess.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6lq9opts8npgd4l/2018-12-03 10.23.11.jpg?dl=0
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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Are you sending speaker-level output to the amp? The amp expects line-level signals.
 
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