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Old School
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Discussion Starter #1
Since I am sick of being "All trap and no ET" I'm really think hard about running ET Streets.

For those of you that have, could you fit the 26" x 10.5" x 16" size under the fenders without rolling or grinding? Hoosier makes a Quick Time Pro (same as ET Street) in 26" x 9.5" x 16", and I have heard that the Hoosiers are more stable top end than the MT's. I wonder if the smaller tread width of the Hoosier would be a traction problem though.

Also, are you guys running skinnies in the front, or regular radials?
 

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OG
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Chip-

do you have a few timeslips of your best runs?

I always like to examine how the 60 foot affects the final outcome.
im also interested in seeing your the 1/8 mile stats.

i can finally run consistent 1.9's now on the BFG drag radials on the stock 17 inch wheels. however, I still haven't figured out how some of these guys run 1.7's on drag radials with a 6 speed.

no matter how many different launches I try, I just cant get the car to launch any better without losing traction. Im getting sick of peddling the car to keep traction in first gear. im about to dump these BFG's for the et streets also.

do you have any idea yet on what type of wheel/tire combo you want to run? thats pretty much the only thing that is holding me back at this point.

Jade Supra-
how bad is the "float" from the ET streets? Is the instability of the rear end that bad? what kind of wheels did you mount those tires on? and whats your best 60 foot with that setup?

im pretty anxious to get better 60 foot times, but at the same time, I dont want to take a huge risk of putting my car into the wall at 100+MPH.

thanks
 

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OG
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oh...

one more question for those of you that are running the slicks...

from what i've heard, there are no clearance issues with running the et streets in 26x10.5x16.

how about the the 26x11.5x16? Im considering this size to help keep the rear end planted and more stable.

I just want to make sure it will fit under the fenders.
 

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King of the NA-T's
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I don't think that the larger tire size will help with stability. The tires are just inherently instable due to the thin sidewall. Prob best to stick with the 10.5 that mose people run.

I run ET Drags and the "float" is unnerving at times. The key is not to over-correct, but to let the car move around and just keep the car pointed the general direction you want to go. It sounds bad, but you get use to it. I drove around on the street a while to get a feel for the tires, before making a banzai pass at the strip.
 

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OG
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thanks for the info Dave.

sounds scary but im still interested.

you ran [email protected] MPH?
thats an awesome ET for that MPH.
that really makes me want to get the ET Streets now.

I didnt even come close your ET when I ran my 123 MPH pass.
I ran a [email protected] MPH with a with a terrible 2.2 sixty foot. :mad:

what kind of 60 foot did you pull on that 10.86 run?

and do you have to run the tubes inside the slicks?
i've seen some guys running without them because they cant get the valve stems to line up.

are the tubes really necessary? I wonder how much they affect the "floaty" feel at the top end.

im interested in your wheel/tire combo as well.
could you share more details about your setup too?
wheel size, tire size, air pressure, etc...

if im gonna go with the slicks, I want to do it right.

thanks
 

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Old School
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Discussion Starter #7
Alfred, you don't need tubes, especially if you are only going to use the tires at the track. They add about 9 lbs per tire, BTW.

My quickest 1/8 is 8.1x, off a 2.1 60' in Vegas. I have run 1.9x sixties.

The guys running in the 1.7's are good drivers on well prepped tracks. You don't hear about anyone here in SoCal cutting 60's like that on DR's in a 6 speed car, including F-bodies. I know more than a few guys with LS1's, even they need to run an ET street to get 1.8 sixties with a 6 speed. We have some of the worst track conditions around.

Last night I ran out at LACR. Cold, windy, not good conditions. My best pass was a 12.8 at 114, 2.09 60'. What sucks is I ran two 1.9 sixties, but both times I spun bad through 2nd gear, you could hear the tires screaming. Those runs were 12.95 and 13.09 :eek:. I was heating up the DR's, getting a good amount of smoke for ~5 seconds, I'm not sure what more I can do on the Nittos, which is why ET's look tempting. Even on a soft 60' if they hook all through 1st and 2nd it would help versus the Nittos which spin no matter what 60' I run.

S far as scary, I worry about that too. I know better than to try and steer the car but I think running a 3.5" bias-ply skinny tire in the front makes the car feel much more stable. I think CCW sells rims that fit both front and rear.

A good, cheap way to put ET's on the rear is to use the 16 x 8 rim from a 93-95 RX7 TT.
 

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Run the tubes, safety reasons aside, I 60ft better with the tubes(real drag race tubes, which will set you back 50 apiece, don't use some cheap 7 dollar rubber tube) Plus your stability is improved vastly on the big end when you run tubes, plus, you don't have to keep airing them up every so often. Benefits far outweigh the extra few pounds of rotating mass. With out tubes, they tend to lay down a much more uneven footprint opon launch and subsequent gear changes. I was running High 1.6's and the switch to real drag race tubes netted me high 1.5's with vastly improved stability on the big end...just my 02 worth...Also, you'll want to drill the rims for set screws and put 8 screws per side. Summit sells em for about 15.00...
 

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Old School
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Discussion Starter #9
turbodg said:
Run the tubes, safety reasons aside, I 60ft better with the tubes(real drag race tubes, which will set you back 50 apiece, don't use some cheap 7 dollar rubber tube) Plus your stability is improved vastly on the big end when you run tubes, plus, you don't have to keep airing them up every so often. Benefits far outweigh the extra few pounds of rotating mass. With out tubes, they tend to lay down a much more uneven footprint opon launch and subsequent gear changes. I was running High 1.6's and the switch to real drag race tubes netted me high 1.5's with vastly improved stability on the big end...just my 02 worth...Also, you'll want to drill the rims for set screws and put 8 screws per side. Summit sells em for about 15.00...
Good info. Thanks.

What car do you run, and what transmission? Skinnies up front?
 

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I was talking to a Z owner who has hit 11.9 in his car, and he runs on ET Streets as well. When i addressed my concern with stability at high end, he said "get tubes, they'll make it very stable at high end". Some people tell me DR's get squirly at high end too.. So why not just run the ET Streets =)
 
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So lag & team toy are going with ET'S huh. I am about to do the same. a couple of thing's i have found out is. 1. run tube's 2. run more tire press. 17+ psi and you need better suspension. I almost have my custom suspension done it might be avaliable for sale if it work's out . It was built be my friend( very noligable domestic guy) team toy you met him, He was driving my car at lacr. Team toy when did you go 12.00 123mph? I 60' 1.8 ON DR'S pretty regularly right now.
 

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OG
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good info guys...

i'll definitely run tubes now.


I guess all of us so cal draggers are getting sick of the frustrations of running drag radials. I always wanted to see how fast I could go on "street tires" but I swear it feels like im going to break the rear end when I launch with those drag radials.

I've been seeing more and more cases of those thin drag radials putting too much stress on the rear end. so I really want to dump them before I break something on the supra.


deavenly1 ~
did you run the IDRC in Arizona last weekend?

I ran that 12.00 @ 123 MPH at carlsbad the next weekend after our IDRC event without any changes to the car.

I just recently discovered that my main nitrous line was pinched. I found out when I weighed my bottle and I still had 4 pounds left after running 14 full 1/4 mile passes.

The NOS techs told me that I must have been running SUPER rich since there was hardly any nitrous getting through the lines. they calculated that I was squeezing something like a 25 shot.

hopefully with the nitrous line fixed, i'll break into 11's next time with an even higher trap speed. then im gonna have to hit up your buddy to build me a nice roll cage like yours. :D

send me your e-mail address and i'll let you know the next time we go out to the track.
 

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Bad Karma Supra
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Team Toyota said:
good info guys...

i'll definitely run tubes now.


I guess all of us so cal draggers are getting sick of the frustrations of running drag radials. I always wanted to see how fast I could go on "street tires" but I swear it feels like im going to break the rear end when I launch with those drag radials.

I've been seeing more and more cases of those thin drag radials putting too much stress on the rear end. so I really want to dump them before I break something on the supra.

I don't understand...how would running drag radials put more stress on the rear end? -Would a slick or ET Street hook that much harder...thus, putting more stress on the car?

Thanks,
Jay
 

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Philly Single said:


I don't understand...how would running drag radials put more stress on the rear end? -Would a slick or ET Street hook that much harder...thus, putting more stress on the car?

Thanks,
Jay

Yes, the harder you hook the more stress as the power doesn't have an outlet so to speak...ET streets will put more stress on your driveline then will drag radials(assuming you 60ft faster with the ET streets:) )
 
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Philly Single said:


I don't understand...how would running drag radials put more stress on the rear end? -Would a slick or ET Street hook that much harder...thus, putting more stress on the car?

Thanks,
Jay
Jay, et streets and drags have 'wrinkle walls'. When the hammer is droped on these tires, they wrinkle slightly and absorb alot of energy. Just like twisting a rubberband in your fingers. the rubber twists 1st then sends the energy to the ground. On radials tires, the sidewalls are very stiff(ie no wrinckle), thus the whole force of launch is transfered to the driveline in a much narrower amount of time. In other words, its more of a shock.

think of running at some "ropes"(like in wrestling). Even if they give just a little your force is spread out. Now run at a wall--you get the idea?

So, if you run 1.8 60' on both radials and slicks, the radials will shock the drivetrain much more then the slicks. But since you can launch significantly harder on slicks then radials---this is a moot point.
 

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BLK-SP64 said:


Jay, et streets and drags have 'wrinkle walls'. When the hammer is droped on these tires, they wrinkle slightly and absorb alot of energy. Just like twisting a rubberband in your fingers. the rubber twists 1st then sends the energy to the ground. On radials tires, the sidewalls are very stiff(ie no wrinckle), thus the whole force of launch is transfered to the driveline in a much narrower amount of time. In other words, its more of a shock.

think of running at some "ropes"(like in wrestling). Even if they give just a little your force is spread out. Now run at a wall--you get the idea?

So, if you run 1.8 60' on both radials and slicks, the radials will shock the drivetrain much more then the slicks. But since you can launch significantly harder on slicks then radials---this is a moot point.
The amount of wrinkle you are talking about is insignificant compared to grip, I have heard of alot more people breaking and twisting drive shafts on slicks than on dr's. Anyone ever here of someone breaking something in the drivetrain on dr's?
 

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King of the NA-T's
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I ran a 1.66 60' on that pass... it was pretty cold that day and I was still spinning pretty badly. I think I got the possibility of getting into the low 1.5x 60' range with these tires. :)

I'm not running tubes, but after reading this thread I think i'll give them a try. I was lowering the air pressure that day trying to get more traction, but once I got down in the 12-13psi range I had to lift because the car was all over the place. 14psi was the least amoung of air pressure I could run and still make a full pass at WOT.

I'm running 15x8 Weld Prostars with 26x10/15 ET Drags. You need to run N/A rear brakes for these wheels to fit.

Team Toyota said:
thanks for the info Dave.
sounds scary but im still interested.
you ran [email protected] MPH?
thats an awesome ET for that MPH.
that really makes me want to get the ET Streets now.
I didnt even come close your ET when I ran my 123 MPH pass.
I ran a [email protected] MPH with a with a terrible 2.2 sixty foot. :mad:
what kind of 60 foot did you pull on that 10.86 run?
and do you have to run the tubes inside the slicks?
i've seen some guys running without them because they cant get the valve stems to line up.
are the tubes really necessary? I wonder how much they affect the "floaty" feel at the top end.
im interested in your wheel/tire combo as well.
could you share more details about your setup too?
wheel size, tire size, air pressure, etc...
if im gonna go with the slicks, I want to do it right.
thanks
 

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I think you may find with the tubes you may be able to go a few psi lower...I run 8-10psi in my 28x11.50x15 Mickey Thompson ET streets, though keep in mind my toyota is 500 pounds lighter so this may effect things...Anyway you look at it getting 11.3 @ 123mph and 1.59 60fts out of a 4 cylinder toyota pickup rocks...
I use to run the Drag radials(2756015) and I must say 1.8's was as low as I could get with those...
 

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Yes, brothers own Supras
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I have a question for those using the ET streets. How long is your burn out? I have to really heatup the drag radials to get them to hook at all. I was told by a friend running them on our track that u dont need to heat the ET streets up that much, just clean em off a bit.
 
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