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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After doing the research, I felt that the most economical and modest upgrade for my dead aristo alternator was a Tundra alternator.

Here's my aristo alternator (top) vs 2007 tundra alternator (bottom):



Is the only mod to cut off that middle ear on the tundra alternator?


Of course I'll need to use a tundra alternator pigtail to have the 4-pin square plug:


(Aristo alt on left and tundra alt on right.)


Here's a close-up of the tundra alt plug:



Anything else I should be wary of?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply.

In the link you provided, I found the pertinent post:

I paid 100$ or so with shipping for an original OEM alternator out of a wrecked, low mileage Tundra on Ebay. I don't trust remans from anywhere, including dealerships. People always seem to report them having much shorter lives than the originals which can go 10-15yrs. If I need to replace bearings or brushes then I can do that as needed with Toyota parts and keep all my other internals original and reliable.

So my alternator came in. Here's a summary of the swap:

1) Swap the Supra 3 pin plug to the new Tundra 4 pin plug. PN#90980-11964. Supra 3 pin to 4 pin, respectively goes like this: (yellow/green stripe) 1-->4, 2-->2, (beige)3-->1, plug up the third pin with an OEM plug or RTV silicone.


2) The Tundra alternator uses a metric 6mm for the power cable instead of an 8mm like the Supra.
3) Yes, you can directly swap over your Supra pulley (in case you have a pretty one you paid good money for).


4) When you mock up the alternator on the lower bolt, then rotate the alternator so the top ear hits where it's supposed to mount, you can use a marker to trace where it hits and then unmount the unit. The mask off the sides and take it to a machine shop to be machined down (5mm of material as shown.) On the top ear in the first picture, note the small black mark I made... In the second image, I masked around the portion of the lip that will be shaved.



Notes: The alternator is smaller, and subjectively feels lighter (I'll weigh them tomorrow.) The third ear on the Tundra unit doesn't get in the way and isn't used. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the harness support as it won't be used. Enjoy alternator superiority! I'll have mine back from the machine shop tomorrow, but no update means I'm happy with it.
 

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Yep, that's it. I'm sitting on a 150A Sequoia alternator to do this with as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
What year sequoia is your alternator from?

Please let me know how your upgrade turns out.

The plug p/n in the link is literally for just the plastic housing.

FYI for anyone doing this - you either need to repin, or buy a used pigtail because each pin from the dealer is $7 and the plug is $13.
 

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150a here. An excellent uprgrade.
 

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What year sequoia is your alternator from?

Please let me know how your upgrade turns out.

The plug p/n in the link is literally for just the plastic housing.

FYI for anyone doing this - you either need to repin, or buy a used pigtail because each pin from the dealer is $7 and the plug is $13.
Mine is from a 2004 Sequoia, but I believe the models from 2003-2007 all use this part # for the 150A alternator:
27060-0F050

This is the 130A version:
27060-0F040

The 130A may be a bit easier to find than the 150.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Moar alternator complications:


Here's the 2007 tundra alternator.



You can see the mockup for how much needs to be milled off.


Here's a pic off it after the top ear has been milled down for fitment on aristo 2jzgte.
It's a little over 5mm to be safe - and I'm adding a couple thin washers to shim it up top when installing - for belt alignment.



You can also see the new 4-pin denso pigtail.

I tried to keep the pn visible in the photo:

27060-0f070
*this is rated at 130 amp

Now here's the strange thing - the janky wiring that I have on the old 3-pin connector was done by someone I paid for wiring - well that all feeds together into a single bundle and into one wire leading to who knows where in my harness.

Now that I'm putting the 4-pin pigtail on, where should it be connecting into?

I want to do this correctly.

(The markings on the sticker for the 4 pins are IG, S, L, M respectively).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A buddy just sent me this:

 

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So are these instructions incorrect? Supra 3 pin to 4 pin, respectively goes like this: (yellow/green stripe) 1-->4, 2-->2, (beige)3-->1, plug up the third pin with an OEM plug or RTV silicone.


A buddy just sent me this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
^ I think he wanted an update on the wiring.

Mine is in and working - very good upgrade, as my headlights no longer dim at idle when the dual FAL fans come on.

I wired my alternator in according to the schematic, but bypassed the factory wiring on my car for the most part - it's basically a standalone now, using its own inline fuse.

The way I wired it up likely won't help anyone else here because I have it in a 240sx with Jdm aristo swap.
 

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I have a tundra 130 amp alternator and the plug connector available if anyone is looking for one. I did this and car runs flawless with all the extra electronics I run. Pm me if interested.
 

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I have a tundra 130 amp alternator and the plug connector available if anyone is looking for one. I did this and car runs flawless with all the extra electronics I run. Pm me if interested.
When you did this tundra 130amp Alternator swap to your 2jz, did you need to swap out the OEM alt fuse or add bigger gauge wires?
 

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So are these instructions incorrect? Supra 3 pin to 4 pin, respectively goes like this: (yellow/green stripe) 1-->4, 2-->2, (beige)3-->1, plug up the third pin with an OEM plug or RTV silicone.
Is the the correct wiring ^^^
 
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