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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, i took off my valve covers to send out to polish last night. I got the new toyota gaskets for them and intend to reinstall them this upcoming week.
I have a couple questions about reinstallation.
1.) When i took off the valve covers, every nut and bolt holding the valve cover on was loose, in other words i didnt have to break them loose i just had to start turning.
The valve covers never leaked oil and the car ran perfect, so i was a little confused when i ran into that.
WHen i reinstall them, is a torque wrench absolutely necessary? And if so what is the torque specs.
2.) theres those little metal washers that sit between the bolt and the valve cover. A couple of them are slightly damaged where the rubber is, on the bottom where they sit on the valve cover. Is this a big problem? Should i get some new ones?

ANy help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
John
 

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wastegate hose is pulled
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I'd get new washers and use the torque wrench to insure you stay leak free. It is real easy to get carried away any squash those rubber/metal washers. Nothing regarding valve covers is a big problem though. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do you think i'd be okay without replacing the washers? Only like 2 of them got damaged a little bit where the rubber goes.
Do you know the toque specs for the valve covers?
Thanks
John
 

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yea you can always skip over that, but do you really wanna skip out on a measly few bucks, n possible lose oil, dirty up ur motor and head, etc etc...just spend the few bucks n itll be all good
 

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Por2geezSupra said:
the torque specs for the valve covers are 48 inch lbs. When you install them, also put toyota fipg sealent on the 2 front cornres behind the cam gear area. Here is a link from mkiv.com with all the info you need: http://mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/valve_clearance/6.jpg

I've read a lot of these questions and most of the time MKIV is a great start.. thanks for giving me a clue....
 

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feeding your habit
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heads up:

when installing the valve covers, seat each fastener LIGHTLY to make sure you have the whole cover down. The new cover gaskets will be thick and when you seat the fasteners down, don't over do it. You WILL snap off the mounting ears on the cover..... Once seated lightly, turn them each to lightly hand tight, do this from the center out.

It doesn't take much pressure to prevent the cover from leaking (as evidenced by how they were just snugged when you removed it, with no leaks).

-M
 

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tried to replace the valve cover today and ran into some problems. I had to cut out one of the rubber on the right side of the cover to get it off. It was hard as a rock. Does anyone know the part number or what that is called??

After that, I was going to do one side at a time, starting with the right one. I took out all the bolts that I can see. I counted 6 bolts and 2 washer. Is that it? cause after I took all the bolts and washer off, I tried to lift up the valve cover and wasn't coming off. Do I have to pry it open? Also do I have to move the wire harness out? i tried but it wouldn't move that much.

Also one of the coil pack connector clips fell apart :( the white part. I am going to order another clips and replace it but anyways, any help or anymore tips on removing the valve cover is much appreciated.

In addition, I got the gasket and new washer about 7-8 months ago, is it okay to use it still? the rubber washer felt pretty hard. Anyways, let me know. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Make sure you removed all the nuts/bolts. there are nuts i believe under the haress right behind the cam gear area. Make sure you have those off as well.
And yes sometimes they do stick on even after all the bolts are off. You may have the pry a little.
 

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run your hand around the v/c and make sure you have all the bolts out then pry lightly. the right one is a little harder to get off then the left one because there is some more stuff in the way, well, as far as i can remember from when i did it 3 years ago.
 

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Hardtop >
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there are a total of 6 bolts and 2 nuts on each valve cover. The nuts are located on the inside corners of the valve covers. Once you get all those off, if the valve covers dont move. pry them up with a screw driver.
 

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finally got the driver side valve cover off...omg it was a pain in the ass. The metal tube in the back was giving me some problems. In addition, the reason why i couldn't lift up the valve cover was because of the damn screw gourmet. The one that goes on the screws and nuts. It was a pain to get it off the bolt. The 2 nuts one. I had to pry those sucker off. Anyways, the driver side is done with. I put on the new rubber and replaced the PCV valve while I am at it. That was a pain too. The rubber around the pcv was hard as a rock. Then it fell in and I had to shake it and tear it into little pieces so that it would come off.

I kinda started on the passenger side valve cover but stopped cause of the bolt on the far back. I couldn't get my swivel to go in there. I have to go get another swivel which I will pick up tomorrow. Overall repalcing the valve cover gasket is A PAIN IN THE ASS
 

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replacing the valve cover is very fustrating. I remember when I did it, the back bolt are a bitch to get out. I had to disconnected the hardlines and egr bracket and whatever else just to get to that damn bolt. The passenger side valve cover was hard to get off too. I'm guess its because of the turbo getting hot and what not. The driver side cover came off easily. Anyways, i sure hope I don't have to do it again. I was getting very very frustrated when I can't get to that bolt and the hardpipe wouldn't move and the front wire harness not moving that much. Anyways, GOOD LUCK. Its a easy job but its torture to get to the damn bolts.
 

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Pepsit:

Next time you want to take off the washer, please TURN IT OVER just like when you taking off a screw it will start going up direct to your hands
 

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What he means by turn it over is that the washers that are stuck on there, pry them up with a screw driver and when they are loose you can turn them counter clock wise and you will be able to get them off easier.
 
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