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Discussion Starter #1
ok guys im doin my valve adjust ment rite..and on one of my valve on #2 piston i
stuck the feeler gauge that is needed for minimum clearance. but the problem is that the shim dat was in is the thinnest one on the list and its still too thick wat should i do...? should i grind that shim down some more to make the spec'd clearance...
 

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The best thing to do would be to grind the valve stem, however if the head is still on that's not a great option. I would take the shim to a machine shop and have them grind it.
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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My post last night wasn't too clear. You'll have to search aftermarket to get a thinner shim. The best option would be to remove that valve and put a correct one in there. Whatever is in there is damaged or not stock.
 

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my bet: you had the head work done and the seats cut. This caused the valve stems to protrude out too far. Dont bother getting the valve stems cut unless you dont plan on using the valves later for another project.

Toyota makes a smallest stock shim size of 2.5mm while ive been able to locate shims as small as 2.3mm at a machine shop. Personally, I think your best option will be to send your camshafts out to Schneider Cams to be reground. This will remove material from your cams and allow you to set your stuff to spec without cutting any valves.

The problem with cutting valves is that you are limited to a MAXIMUM (and I wouldnt recommend it) material removal equal to the thickness of the nipple on the bottom of the shim bucket plus the protrusion of the valve stem over the top of the spring. The bucket hits the valve stem, not the spring. Any more removal, and the bucket will hit the spring and cause premature wear of your retainer and keepers. In a worst case scenario, you could drop a valve into your combustion chamber.

BUT, you only have one valve that is a problem! Soooooooo, you should contact your local cylinder head shop. They should be able to get you a shim wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy cheaper than toyota. I paid about 3 bucks for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
hey guys i changed the bucket and it came into spec wit the 2.5mm shim.. so its all good now.

ok guys now i got the car runniin but the idle is not very good. when you first start it you have to give it gas for it to catch. but if you give it gas and let go it will die.
the cps sensor is pushed all the way down to actually keep the idle. wat else could it be to fix the idle. i know the cps sensor should not be like dat either.
 

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maybe you are one tooth off on your cps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
can someone explain exactly how to put in the cps when the motor is aligned to tdc. i know on the cps shaft the drilled dot lines up with the indent. but when you put it in it has to turn a lil or no it shouldnt move?
 

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They are helical gears, so it's going to move as you insert it. Just get everything lined up, line the slot on the CPS housing up roughly in the middle of the tapped hole and push it straight in without letting the housing rotate.
 

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wha huh?
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umm...does it only happen when its cold? cause if so, its your cold start injector/timeswitch...just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter #11
where is the coldstart time switch? and i did a compression test #5 piston is still dead only read 60 but the rest are fine around 110. shouldnt my engine still run if one piston is pretty much dead?
 

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yeah, it will run...... but not the best. I nursed my car back from seattle running on 5 cylinders. (one of the keepers wasnt retaining and shutting the valve on #6) ZERO compression. You need to fix your compression problem. Are you sure your clearances are correct?
 
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