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THE Computer DR.
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332 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at having my valve stem seals replaced, but I've got a couple options and would like advice on which route to take.

Option 1
I can take it to my mechanic and he'll do the whole job for right at $900-$1000. This includes some upgraded Viton seal.

Option 2

I have a friend that used to work on cars that said he would help me take the head off so I can take it to a local engine rebuilding shop. They'll refinish the head and put in new seals and everything for $295. I would still have to buy new seals, new head bolts, and a new headgasket if that needs to be replaced too (can someone tell me if I have to replace that?)

My question, would it be worth my time to just pay the shop to do it all, or is pulling the head and replacing it pretty easy? tia
 

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Canadian monster
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596 Posts
you don't need to pull the head to do it, if search would work i would tell you to search but what i did is to put some rope in the spark plug hole and turn the engine until the rope is squeezed so that the valve won't fall. Also, you need the toyotool valve guide puller thing, that thing works like a charm.

It is a lot of work and a lot of time but it can be done. Also, 1000 isn't too expensive for the job i beleive.
 

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Registered
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81 Posts
I have talked to a few people and most people have said that leaking seals aren't a big deal as long as you always check the oil. The dealer didn't want to do the job and a tuning shop quoted me at $2200 for the valves and a head job before parts.
 

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Ex-hardtopper
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1,920 Posts
I have talked to a few people and most people have said that leaking seals aren't a big deal as long as you always check the oil. The dealer didn't want to do the job and a tuning shop quoted me at $2200 for the valves and a head job before parts.
Might not be a big deal to the driver, but looks HORRIBLE when your beautiful Supra looks like the fumigator driving down the highway. I'm doing mine before the summer, just got the service manuals to help me along the process.
 

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173 Posts
I did mine myself on my NA-T when I was upgrading the headgasket. Took about 4-5 hours to do with the head out and is pretty straight forward. With the head out you can check all of the tollerances and clean the valves off of carbon.

If you do do it yourself make sure you don't mix the shims up when you put everything back together. I had 2 in the wrong spots, so had to go back and fix it.

But if you are careful and have a place to do it you can save a lot of money doing it yourself.
 

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Moderator
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4,638 Posts
I'd use the valve seals.

But i'd use a toyota HG or HKS or something of that nature.

Or Just get the whole gasket kit from toyota personally.
 

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King Ding-a-ling!
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3,195 Posts
I will chime in as I have been in the midst of this snowball. Upon changing my seals as my car had all of the symptoms, I discovered that my seals were very worn and hard. Upon using the air method to hold my valves up while changing the seals, I also discovered that I had some pretty bad leakdown out of my exhaust valves. I opted to pull the head and found that the oil leaking by turned into carbon deposits on the valve which in turn ruined the sealing surface of the valve and the seat. So this needs to be addressed ASAP! I also opted to use viton seals as the oem seals are inferior... yes there is a Toyota part that is inferior!

Now I am in a valve job, Ferrea viton valve seals, Ferrea valves, and went ahead and got some HKS 264s. This shit adds up quick... now I am looking at rebuilding the entire engine! Doh! It never ends!
 

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2jz powered
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1,682 Posts

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Blue Thunder
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3,605 Posts
Leave the head on. Do the rope trick. Having NEVER done this type of job before,
I've done 3 since January using info gleamed from here and the MKIV write-up.
Use the rope trick. If your air hiccups, you WILL have to take the head off !!!

Easy job, stop fretting over it. I used the Toyota seals. They were good for 12yrs.
So 12 more years should suffice.And get the Toyo-tool as mentioned earlier. GREAT
tool to have !!! I borrowed one from a member on here.

Read the write-up until you are familiar with it.

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/valve_stem/index.html

Still looking for that thread that mentioned the rope trick. The post is a good one..even had a few vids of the repair being done.
The rope trick is in this article. It's called "NYLON ROPE"
 

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Blue Thunder
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3,605 Posts
is it me, or is something wrong when the dealership by me told me theyd replace my valve stem seals for $250?

DUDE !!!! JUMP ON IT !!!!! LOL !!!!! That's the price for the parts !!!!
Anywho, here's the BEST write-up I've read on replacing the 2JZ valve stem seals..
Props out to Tony License !!!!

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=49859

Use cottonballs to fill the nooks and crannies to stop those keepers from fallin too !!
 

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THE Computer DR.
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332 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ok, so lets say I leave the head on and do it. What's the best place to get the seal kit, best price? Also, I've heard that when you have a head redone they clean it all out so there are no carbon deposits and such. They also make sure all the valves are sealing well. Would it be worth it to have that done, or would there be symptoms if those were a problem.
 

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Blue Thunder
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3,605 Posts
Ok, so lets say I leave the head on and do it. What's the best place to get the seal kit, best price? Also, I've heard that when you have a head redone they clean it all out so there are no carbon deposits and such. They also make sure all the valves are sealing well. Would it be worth it to have that done, or would there be symptoms if those were a problem.
1. What , if any symptoms do you have ? Smoke in the morning? Or continous?
2. Do a compression test first. Seals can also cause low compression #'s. Not just
carbon on the valves themselves.
3. How many miles? Mine had 166k, low compression in 5 and 6, and seals fixed it.
4. Why are you intent on pulling the head? It does not have to be pulled.
If you pull the head, you'll need the HG. You might as well do your rings too.
Pulling the head is WAY more expensive if cost is a factor BTW.
5. Get the parts from Curt.
6. If you have low comp #'s,Do the seals first, see if your compression #'s
improves.
 

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THE Computer DR.
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332 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks $9ktt for the info, this is exactly what I'm looking for. And yes I have been finding out that pulling the head is going to be almost as much as having my shop do the whole valve stem seal replacement for me.

The only symptoms I'm having are smoke at startup, and when the car idles for a couple minutes like at a stoplight, it'll puff out some smoke when I blip the throttle to take off. Pretty much it, I just didn't know if pulling the head and having it redone was good preventative maintenence or a waste of money. But I think your post convinced me to just to the seal replacements myself. Now where do I find this Curt gentlemen.
 

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Registered
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235 Posts
How low were your numbers by chance? I have a cylinder that is at 110psi and when I add oil to the spark plug well it jumps to ober 150psi. I am not sure which way I wanna go as far as a a repair. I was kinda leaning towards rings, but now that you have mentioned VSS its got me thinking.

1. What , if any symptoms do you have ? Smoke in the morning? Or continous?
2. Do a compression test first. Seals can also cause low compression #'s. Not just
carbon on the valves themselves.
3. How many miles? Mine had 166k, low compression in 5 and 6, and seals fixed it.
4. Why are you intent on pulling the head? It does not have to be pulled.
If you pull the head, you'll need the HG. You might as well do your rings too.
Pulling the head is WAY more expensive if cost is a factor BTW.
5. Get the parts from Curt.
6. If you have low comp #'s,Do the seals first, see if your compression #'s
improves.
 

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Banned
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1,747 Posts
is it me, or is something wrong when the dealership by me told me theyd replace my valve stem seals for $250?
I don't think I'd even do it for that. hell I'm a mechanic and i'd almost pay someone $250 if they did it right
 
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