Would +1 mm really be responsible for your bent rod?

 

i also agree that +1mm would have done that, especially at 18psi. I would assume that you were still under 600whp?

 

Typo correction. I meant to say that "wouldn't".

For what its worth, I made a stupid mistake and took my car out on a few runs on which I THOUGHT was pump gas map (660whp), but in actuality, it was on c16 map (800whp). Luckily the roads were wet and alls I did was spin tires. Came back and my tuner was furious, lol. Maybe I got lucky, but no damage occurred. My point, I don't think you would have bent a rod at 18psi, even if you had a upgraded wheel. Really sorry about what happened to your engine, but like others have said, I highly doubt they will cover the damage. Good luck!

 

I was on my lowest boost tune, but I have no idea how high the boost went up to. And that 66mm flows a lot more than the 65mm

 

Dont you have have Proefi with all these failsafes?

Sucks no matter what for sure,

 

there is NO failsafe for mechanical failure.. period

 

Probably had boost creep too.

Steve

 

Im on a stock long block including cams so it is still non-interference. I also checked all the valvesprings and none are broken. Im thinking that the new 66mm wheel caused the car to pre-ignite or detonate due to the tank being full of 93 octane pump gas and was the reason for the bent rod. I was told by Reid at sound performance that I would need to have the car retuned if I did the upgrade because the new wheel would raise my minimum boost. And obviously, the car was not retuned because I didnt know I had a new 66mm turbine wheel.

 

Ok so to cut it short, I sent in my 6765 for a rebuild and upgrade to the new 66mm turbine wheel. A few days later precision called me and told me that I needed to send in my turbine housing in order to get the 66mm upgrade. I told them to cancel the upgrade and that I only wanted a rebuild because I did not want to wait any longer. The turbo came back and I installed it and went for a drive on low boost because I only had 93 octane in the tank. During the test drive I bent a connecting rod and once I pulled the turbo off to measure it, I realized that it had been upgraded to the new 66mm turbine wheel. Now I cannot think of any other reason why this would have happened other than the upgraded turbo, because it was the only thing that had changed in the car besides a fresh clutch. My car was set to 18psi but I dont know how high the boost actually got to. So let me hear what you guys think I should do as far as contacting Precision about the turbo and damaged motor.

So basically they did the upgrade without your turbine housing? I would call them and ask why they decided to do the upgrade, without you sending the turbine housing and after you cancelled. Even if this didn't happen, you did not get what you asked for.

Casper

 

Yes, they did the upgrade without my turbine housing AND after I told them I no longer wished to have the upgrade done.

 

Get a Lawyer.

Shits about to get real. I dont think anyone on SF is going to be able to help you further than just consoling you. It sucks, and I also think with a Lawyer you may lose your case, but its worth a shot.

The fact of the matter is, your engine is 15+ years old and HIGHLY modified. PTE isnt going to hand out a motor so it will go to court if you pursue it. Getting a judge to understand the working of a turbo, 2jz motor and its limits etc to prove that the larger housing did in fact cause your failure and not your "modifications" and age of the car... would be pretty impressive.


p.s. OP, if u need a rod, Im pulling my block apart and if the rods are stock u can have one.

 

Thats a very good point, 2012 has not been a very lucky year for me so far.

 

Who setup your pro-efi? If it was setup properly there is no way this should have happened. It would have been pulling a ton of timing if it remotely thought there was knock, it should have been limiting boost as well.

 

Wouldnt the exhaust housing interfere with the 66mm turbine wheel since its spec'd for a 65mm wheel? I think thats why they needed to replace/modify your housing if you opted for the 66mm wheel?

 

I wouldn't think a 66 wheel would even work in a 65 housing.... What do they charge for the upgrade?

 

The 66mm wheel fit just fine. And I am 100% positive that it IS INDEED a 66mm wheel.

 

OP,

I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. Unfortunately, I don't have the technical expertise to offer troubleshooting advice.

Do I understand correctly that PTE upgraded the turbine wheel for free?

Any idea why they originally said they needed the turbine housing to do the upgrade, if they were able to do it without?


Craig

 

Any idea why they originally said they needed the turbine housing to do the upgrade, if they were able to do it without?

Either way you're wasting your time trying to get Precision to pay for anything. It's just as likely that it was a coincidence that it happened when it did. You have no real proof and the limit of liability from Precision will be the turbo itself, and sounds like it's fine. Sorry but that's the way it goes sometimes, warranties are few in the performance car world.


edit for pic:

 

I don't think you have an upgraded 66 wheel... They would not have upgraded your turbo for FREE and the wheels are almost identical in size. HOW do you KNOW for sure you have a 66 wheel? They are no stamped, or at least the 65 and 66 I've installed did not have identifiers on them.

Bending a stock rod is not that hard to do but I know people running 800+ with stock rods without issue on a good tune, my self included at one time. So 600hp doesn't equal a bent rod unless you had other issues going on like fluid in the cylinder or something external to the turbo.

Did you disassemble the engine, post pictures of your turbo and bent rod for reference.

 

I measured it with a digital caliper, and I dont know what you were looking at but its pretty easy to tell the difference between the two. It wasnt free either, I paid an extra $200 for a "65mm turbine wheel" which is what it said on my receipt. I will post pictures of the turbo tonight.

 

Lol for you to even be mad at Precision is incredible. For people to agree with you is even more crazy.

You are not going to bend a rod at low boost from a turbine wheel upgrade.

 

+ 100000000000

 

I measured it with a digital caliper, and I dont know what you were looking at but its pretty easy to tell the difference between the two. It wasnt free either, I paid an extra $200 for a "65mm turbine wheel" which is what it said on my receipt. I will post pictures of the turbo tonight.

I'm still confused...

If PTE said they needed you to send in the turbine housing to do the upgrade to the 66mm wheel, and you did NOT send in the housing, how could they have done upgrade?

Craig

 

Craig, Im just as confused as you are. I will post pictures of said turbine as soon as i can

 

If you were running on pump gas why did you not have any fail safes in place with the proefi? Simply having an overboost cut in place would have prevented this. Also if it was indeed an overboost issue due to a more efficient turbine wheel why did you not just let off rather than make a full pull? Surely you would be able to feel the dIfference vs the power it would normaly make on 18lbs. Have you checked any data logs to see if the boost did in fact go over 18?

 

When people blow a motor they look to blame anyone. Shit happens and I'm sorry it did but this is the game we all play. You have a stock block good excuse to build this go e-85 since you got pro efi and run it at full tilt.

 

Im already e85. I will build build build

 

Some people have such unreasonable expectations that they should just stick to new, unmodified cars with warranties. I believe OP is definitely one of those people.

You've offered no evidence whatsoever of it being a 66mm turbine. Even if it's a 66mm wheel and that difference was enough to push your engine over the edge, why the hell didn't you have more failsafes in place or a more conservative tune with pump gas?

Welcome to hot-rodding. Shit blows up and you better get used to it. It's on YOU to be sure of the parts you're installing, it's on YOU to have a tune sorted out for the fuel/boost level/hard parts you're running, it's on YOU to see to these details because it's YOUR car. I strongly doubt Precision slipped you a 66mm wheel by mistake, and if they did, you basically got a free upgrade - how does that make them responsible for your tune and your engine?

Why is it that so many people these days deflect any possible culpability on their part to any and every person/shop/company that had even the most remote association to the issue?

 

tq bends rods a upgraded 66 will only make a tad more tq and at low boost levels this wouldnt be an issue. bottom line you have prolly had a tweeked rod for a while and it is coincidental it let go now. shit happens and when you try make 3x the factory tq it tends to happen sooner everyone of the peeps running 650+tq on stock motors should be thanking our lucky stars after every successful 30psi pull that the rods didnt fail
i am in the same boat and expect failure of my rods soon. maybe ill get lucky but when it happens i wont be surprised.

 

This is a ridiculous thread. The 66 turbine housing is different than an old 65. No one will bend a rod at 18 psi. That motor was on borrowed time. Why did the turbo need to be rebuilt anyway?

 

The man has spoken!........ Larry.. good seeing you at Six flags..

 

I am gonna go with maybe some of the damage occurred while driving like this........

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?666242-Sound-Performance-Supra-videos....

 

It's one thing to do passes at the drag strip with 700+ hp, its a whole nother thing to do runs to 185 mph.

SF conventional wisdom tells us that we can make pulls on stock motors with absurd power, but runs to 185 mph is no longer part of this. Your heat/cooling managment should be re-examined if this is your preferred style of racing.

I have over 20k miles @ ~600hp on my stock jdm block, and I drag it whenever I can. I wouldn't dream of running the mile or a road course with out reassesing cooling. Metal is easier to bend the hotter it gets. IMHO the stock oil cooler is not up to this task.

 

To the OP, YOU are at fault for the simple fact you didn't check and inspect what you received (and many other reasons). I am in the process of building one customer 2jz and my personal, in both was ordered Titan Billet main caps. Would you just install them, and not check for scoring, etc? You should have checked turbo for correct size and also any defects. Not that checking it would of prevented this because +1 mm would NOT cause this to happen anyway, but it's a very good habit to have. Save yourself the money/embarrassment of hiring a lawyer and taking them to court, and put that money into building your motor.

 

LOL
Like Larry said, you won't bend a rod BECAUSE of a 65 to 66mm upgrade - your engine was probably on the way out.
Also just because you have a bigger wheel, does NOT mean you will have more BOOSTPRESSURE. 18 PSI is 18 PSI - if your BC is set to cut off at 18, it should do so with a 32mm wheel or a 112mm - just the amount of airflow is going to be WAY different. So the upgrade should NOT cause ANY higher boost-pressure in the first place.