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Has the car run before or is this a fresh harness job? If its a new install you need to check the wires that lead to your cam position sensors (on side of head), your crank angle sensor (bottom left of crank pulley), and your ignitor. Many of these wires are sheilded and it sounds to me like they are getting some signal but not enough to sync up.
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no the car ran fine for about a year then one day i went to get some food and when i came out the car started then died that was a month ago and it hasn't ran since.im getting spark but does that still mean my ignitor could be bad?at one point i was getting a code 12 but after checking resistance to the crank and cam sensors it has gone away.
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Well then it one of these items...
One of the cam position sensors
The crank angle sensor
The ignitor
Or worst case, the ECU
One of the cam position sensors
The crank angle sensor
The ignitor
Or worst case, the ECU
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I say ECU!! Try pluging your ecu in to another car and see if it does the same thing to that car!!
Ax
Ax
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Thats my vote also, my car did the exact same thing when I had my safc2 hooked up wrong, the ecu wasn't recieving a signal for the MAP. All the other things stated could very well be the problem also, but I would first check the MAP. If your using the 2J map, try the old 1J map if you have it.VJ RC51 said:
Jake
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Ok well i checked on the map sensor thing and it didn't really help but my car did something very interesting....when trying to start it i kept the key turned in start position and the car started while i was holding the key i had to give the car a little gas but with the key held on (i know that is not good on the starter) and giving it gas the car managed to idle for about 30 seconds at about 400-500rpms i don't know whats going on.....
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That is exactly what my car did when the MAP was hooked up incorrectly on the SAFC2.Mklll1jz said:
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Thats what my car does when the map is bad. Just unhook the sensor from the car. If no change, u know your answer. It was easy for me because i just took the map off my other car and instantly found it was the prob. With a bad map, u should be able to feather the gas a few times and get it to rev up
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I agree with you the map could be the issue here.. But disconnecting the map sensor by either pulling the vacuum line, or pulling the plug may not accurately diagnose the problem. I had a car acting up at the shop and we were convinced it was the map sensor as we would unplug it and the thing would run exactly like it was running before.. like crap! It ended up being the ISC instead.VJ RC51 said:
The thing that makes me thing you are dealing with a timing/cam-crank sensor is the code 14. Usually the map sensor sticking will trigger the engine light and give you a 34.. although I have seen cars with bad maps not trigger the light at all (dont know why).
Another slight possibility is the crank angle pickup is broken, this happens all the time on 2J's.. Its a bitch to inspect but its another possibilty.
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If your willing to drive to Owasso, I'd be more than happy to help you out. SAFC hooked or unhooked, it won't make a difference if the MAP is acting up. Check your connections to the SAFC2, the input map wire and output map wire, if the safc2 is unhooked and there is a bad connection, it wont make a difference, the car will still not run correctly.Mklll1jz said:
Jake
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MattOneDime said:
That little star gear on the crank? that happened on my friends supra. Thing ran like total crap, it would shut off after a few second if it even did start. The AEM said like +40 degrees advanced on idle. Very easy fix if u have a welder :bigthumb:
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When I got code 14 it was worst case for me. My blitz ecu didnt work anymore and now im stuck with a stocker. :sad: The smallest board inside the center had a few burn spots on it. I wish it still worked.
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