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Useless Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I have the Project Mu 2-piece Rotors in the front for my Supra:
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/projmu2piecb.html

They were cross drilled by the previous owner (purchased Jan '02). Anyways at higher speeds the brakes felt a little wobbly, so I took the car into Toyota and they said the rotors were warped. They only have 16,000 miles on them, so I guess bad luck on that...

My question was, what do you think I should do about this? Some people have said that I should try to get them resurfaced, while others have said that it's not good idea and I should get new rotors if it really bothers me...

Any advice/insights? I'm kind of a newbie, so if you could just shed some light on this topic and help me to understand my options, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.
 

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I would NEVER cheap out on brakes. If youre brakes fail on you for whatever reason then you're putting yourself and others in danger. The toyota techs should know if the rotors could be cut or not. If it can't be cut, get a brand new set from Curt and get them installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The tech said that as far as performance is concerned that it's not a big deal, that the brakes will work fine. At the cost of having the annoying wobble to them. Some people have said that resurfacing would help this, and since the parts are fairly new that it shouldn't be a big deal. But that's why I posted here, to get the real scoop on this issue.

I definitely consider brakes the most important parts on any car, so there's no cheaping out here. Just want to make sure its not money down the drain for something that could be easily fixed, thats all.

Btw, if anyone can recommend a good shop in Vegas to get this stuff looked at, let me know.
 

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New stock front rotors are about $80 each from Kurt or Jeff. I've never had any luck getting rotors cut. Stock Supra rotors are awesome. Spend your money on better pads or cryo treating the rotors.

I cringe when I see drilliet or slotted rotors on any car. It serves no useful pupose and increases carcking and "warping".

Mike
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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Also check your lug nut torque. This is a major reason why rotors warp in the first place. Torque all lugs to 80-85 pounds with a torque wrench.

I don't think I've ever had a problem with warped rotors since I've owned a torque wrench.
 

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Useless Member
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what's cryo treating? what do you guys think about the TRD pads/rotors, are they worth the money over stock parts?
 

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BPU is so 1997
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I'd opt for a set of Brembo "blank" replacement discs and a set of Hawk HPS pads.

I currently have the Power Slot rotors and HPS pads, but I actually preferred the bite of the stock setup. Maybe it's because my brake fluid is 59k miles old. The only downside is that the stock pads dust like crazy, which covers the rear end of my car with black dust.
 
G

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You can cut those rotors with no worries. Since they are failry new they probably never been cut. We cut performance rotors (drilled or slotted) all the time. You can cut them atleast twice. You want to catch it early though, so you only take a few thousands off. If you cut too much then the slotts or the tapers of the holes will disappear. So cut them when you have a slight wobble and not when they shake the crap out of you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also one thing to add - when I let my car cool down after a drive (usually 20 min @ 50 mph), I hear a pinging/crackling noise from (I think) the rotors. It varies from once every 40 seconds to once every minute. Does this like 4 or 5 times on each side and stops.

What does this mean???
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bump

anyone? pinging noise still there, and it's DEF coming from the brakes.
 

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SC Under Pressure
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Its your catalytic converters cooling down!

No worries, nothing at all to do with your brakes and you do not have a problem, IMHO you are hearing the catalytic converters ping/pop/snap. It's close enough to the rotors to make you think all hell is braking loose.

Take my comments with a grain of salt, I drive a SC300, I hear this everytime I turn off the engine and its entirely normal.
 

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i'm pretty sure its from the rotors...but maybe next time i will drive it around fora while and just put it on a jack quickly and try to pinpoint it.

as for my rotors- they were thick enough to have them resurfaced. they feel pretty good. i only did the front ones though, not the rears. any ideas on how to prevent warping in the future?? from what i saw, they were warped pretty bad...

when i get my hub and bearing next week, i'm going to get an alignment and have the tires balanced. other than that, any suggestions???

btw the ping/pop isn't as prevalent after getting the rotors resurfaced...hmmmmm. ps- anyone know where i can get project mu rotors for a good price?

thanks for lookin' out.
 

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A big cause of warped rotors is hard braking followed by a complete stop while still holding down the brakes. Doing that centralizes the heat in one area where the pad is touching the rotor and it cools slower than the surrounding metal ....which can lead to warping. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i was posting under my friend rudy's account.

thanks for the advice, i will be sure to remember that. i guess the previous owner didn't know any better.
 

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Kancho Battle Garage
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You cannot resurface Drilled Rotors well at least our machines can't :) . Also resurfacing warped they are screwed beyond repair. By new rotors, you're better off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There's no more wobbling, but I do notice the car is still making pinging/crackling noises from the rotors when cooling down after a drive where I get on the brakes. The difference is that the noises have a slightly deeper note, less "pingy" and more "crackly".

Any links to the TRD brake it? The rears have Project Mu slotted, so I will probably have to fork out $650 to replace the front pair w the same kind if I can't find a solution. Damn.
 
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