[AlexSmith]

Now that I have an accurate water temp gauge, I know the exact temps. At highway and normal driving it stays at 210, and during hard boosting, it can reach 230 F. Everything is stock on the engine, is this normal opperating temps, or is something wrong?

-Alex

 

[IJ.]

What temp T Stat is in it?

(230F seems damn hot mine peaks at 195f @ 550rwhp on the dyno)

 

[ladmo]

No, this is way beyond normal. 210 is really high, 230 is where you start to break stuff. Mine runs on freeway at 165 and 180 when boosting hard. You should check your coolant, maybe flush it. I would also do a compression test. Hope this helps

 

[AlexSmith]

Thanks guys.

 

[AlexSmith]

I am also running on pure water, which should make it cooler. So I see this is a concern now. So what all could it be? I am planning for a coolant flush, I guess a new T stat, and a compression test I guess.

 

[IJ.]

Alex: You do realise you're erroding the entire engine don't you?
(you've pretty well made a nice 7M battery)

 

[AlexSmith]

Alex: You do realise you're erroding the entire engine don't you?
(you've pretty well made a nice 7M battery)

With the pure water... well I am planning on changing that with the flush. I thought that would make it run cooler until I could find the cause of the high temps.

 

[IJ.]

Personally I'd get coolant in there ASAP, I won't drive a car on straight water I only use it to flush the motor drain it and fill with coolant.

You'd be amazed just how much damage is done and how quickly it happens.

 

[AlexSmith]

Thanks Ian, I'll get that done ASAP. Any other suggestions as to what the problem could be or what I should replace?

 

[IJ.]

Is the rad clear of bugs and crap?

Ditto on the AC Condensor

What it like inside can you see any obstructions?

What's the timing set at?

How old are the Cats?

 

[AlexSmith]

The radiator "looks" fine to me, but I am amatuer. The AC condensor is not active, as the belt is not driving it (it's off). I'll check on the timing, and the second cat was removed.

 

[IJ.]

Doesn't matter if it's active or not just that it's not clogged with bugs and critters....

Do you have the engine undertray on?

Does it have a T Stat and if so what temp?

 

[SupraTurboUtah]

So wait . . . it hurts your engine to run on 100% water?

I was about to do 25% Coolant 75% Water and WaterWetter

Would this be ok?

 

[AlexSmith]

I am assuming you mean clogged on the inside, as there are bugs and road debris on the radiator itself. I do not have the engine undertray, but I was told from several people that live in the area that it really does not matter... at least on their cars(Supras). I am assuming that there is a T-stat, the temp stays at 210 and won't go past that unless boosting, so I am assuming that is the temp. T stats are stock items right? Sorry if that was a newb question.

 

[IJ.]

Depends on the tap water in your area.

 

[SupraTurboUtah]

So wait . . . it hurts your engine to run on 100% water?

I was about to do 25% Coolant 75% Water and WaterWetter

Would this be ok?

Should I use distilled water? would that help? please explain

 

[AlexSmith]

What about distilled water?

 

[IJ.]

Alex: Undertray makes a HUGE difference at speed on our cars....

210f sounds way too hot 187>194 is the spec.

STU: Yes it'll kill a motor quiclky

Distilled is a good start but you MUST run coolant mixed to the directions and then keep some of the same mix for top ups so you don't dilute it.

 

[Zumtizzle]

Distilled is a good start but you MUST run coolant mixed to the directions and then keep some of the same mix for top ups so you don't dilute it.

My Dad told me the same thing, on following the instructions.

IIRR, the first thing to go is the blades on the waterpump. :1poke:

 

[IJ.]

Zum: Depending on the gasket the copper seal rings around the water holes react and eat the head

You could run a sacrificial annode like salt water boat motors but you'd be replacing it weekly.