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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this weird sound that can be heard from inside the car while driving … it sounds almost like a chain dragging the ground or clinging together. This happened every so often.. my car has an automatic transmission. It sounds like the sound is coming from there but unsure…. Has anyone else has this happen before ?
 

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Flexplate's a good thought - has the tranny been off lately? I've also had drive shaft joints failing that cause the thin walled tube of the shaft to generate those tinny, high pitched sounds from the grinding of the joints. If it has a Guibo (mine's not auto so unsure) on the drive shaft, those can also make exactly that sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Flexplate's a good thought - has the tranny been off lately? I've also had drive shaft joints failing that cause the thin walled tube of the shaft to generate those tinny, high pitched sounds from the grinding of the joints. If it has a Guibo (mine's not auto so unsure) on the drive shaft, those can also make exactly that sound.
sorry about that @IdahoDoug the trans was never off that I know of. all was done was the engine put back together. HG, belts, water pump, plugs, wires, oil change, I think that's it.

@Whoosh10 the issue with the trans i thought was the shift solenoids.. that was just me not filling the trans correctly. i over filled it.. then the shift issue went away.
 

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Mine has an occasional clanking sounds heard when going over certain bumps. It's from a brake line with a broken bracket that bounces around. I zipped tied it, which improved things, but not entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think I have figured out the problem.. I was able to put the supra on the lift this morning at work and I found he issue. Its the Mid-Shaft bearing. It is to my understanding you are not supposed to be able to move the driveshaft up and down at that Mid-shaft point.. I believe that is what's causing the vibration. Time to order some parts.
 

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Make sure you order the right one. There are two options. One for the V type joint and one for the M type Joint. I will be needing one too, mine has some deflection in it too. I tried to order one early this year from Toyota and at that time they told me they were out of stock. I still see them listed on Toyota's site so I will try again. I would not buy this part from an aftermarket supplier. I have not had good luck in the past doing that on other vehicles. I only end up replacing the bearing again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Make sure you order the right one. There are two options. One for the V type joint and one for the M type Joint. I will be needing one too, mine has some deflection in it too. I tried to order one early this year from Toyota and at that time they told me they were out of stock. I still see them listed on Toyota's site so I will try again. I would not buy this part from an aftermarket supplier. I have not had good luck in the past doing that on other vehicles. I only end up replacing the bearing again.
Ohhh the only place that had them here was ORiley’s Toyota didn’t have it nore could I get one. There was only one option for me when I looked online
 

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Piece of cake. 90 minutes if you stop for coffee. Mark the driveshaft flanges with a sharpie so they go back together exactly as you found them. Front to tranny, rear to diff and any others. If you don't have vibrations now, then all is well and you want that after replacing this. Pay attention to the current center bearing and how it's mounted - I'd mark that too so you know the top from the bottom and which way it was oriented.

Due caution being under nearly 2 tons of steel with your jackstands and the surface you're working on (no dirt or gravel!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Piece of cake. 90 minutes if you stop for coffee. Mark the driveshaft flanges with a sharpie so they go back together exactly as you found them. Front to tranny, rear to diff and any others. If you don't have vibrations now, then all is well and you want that after replacing this. Pay attention to the current center bearing and how it's mounted - I'd mark that too so you know the top from the bottom and which way it was oriented.

Due caution being under nearly 2 tons of steel with your jackstands and the surface you're working on (no dirt or gravel!).
oh no i will be bringing in to my shop (aka the dealership I work at) and will be putting it on a lift. and do i need to press it on ?
 

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Yes these are straight forward provided you have a good replacement. Like I said I've been burned before using aftermarket on these. Some of them were not worth the energy to make them.

If you can get access to a press that will help. You will need a good bench vise to lock down the yoke so you can break the high torque nut and I just use a puller and puller plate to get the bearing off. The new bearing can be carefully tapped into place. I use the old bearing center to drive the new one. You don't need to go all the way, just enough to start the main nut after the yoke slides on, because when you tighten the main nut again it will finish driving it all in place. One other tip is to make sure you mark the spline to end yoke position before you separate the end yoke to get to the bearing. The end yoke needs to go back exactly relative to the splines the way it came off or it could vibrate. Good luck on the job. I will be doing one sometime this year too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Piece of cake. 90 minutes if you stop for coffee. Mark the driveshaft flanges with a sharpie so they go back together exactly as you found them. Front to tranny, rear to diff and any others. If you don't have vibrations now, then all is well and you want that after replacing this. Pay attention to the current center bearing and how it's mounted - I'd mark that too so you know the top from the bottom and which way it was oriented.

Due caution being under nearly 2 tons of steel with your jackstands and the surface you're working on (no dirt or gravel!).
Thank you for the motivation.. We will get this thing done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes these are straight forward provided you have a good replacement. Like I said I've been burned before using aftermarket on these. Some of them were not worth the energy to make them.

If you can get access to a press that will help. You will need a good bench vise to lock down the yoke so you can break the high torque nut and I just use a puller and puller plate to get the bearing off. The new bearing can be carefully tapped into place. I use the old bearing center to drive the new one. You don't need to go all the way, just enough to start the main nut after the yoke slides on, because when you tighten the main nut again it will finish driving it all in place. One other tip is to make sure you mark the spline to end yoke position before you separate the end yoke to get to the bearing. The end yoke needs to go back exactly relative to the splines the way it came off or it could vibrate. Good luck on the job. I will be doing one sometime this year too.
Thanks for the motivation I am so ready to get this done.
 
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