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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

What amps are you guys currently using? Something that fits in the stock location under the passenger seat would be ideal. Also, one amp for everything would be preferred as well.

Thanks!

EDIT: Thanks guys! I found a JL 900/5 for sale that I managed to scoop up. Time to find some quality 4” speakers to fit in the enclosures, not a fan of how my 6.5 sound in the door with open brackets.
 

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I would be interested in seeing what people are using as well. I was looking into the Soundstream Picasso Nano as it would fit under the seat and run mostly everything. For $150 I figure you can't really go wrong. Just haven't pulled the trigger on it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would be interested in seeing what people are using as well. I was looking into the Soundstream Picasso Nano as it would fit under the seat and run mostly everything. For $150 I figure you can't really go wrong. Just haven't pulled the trigger on it yet.
I know the JL amps are still popular but I wanted to know if anything new was being used.

This amp you mentioned is a great price. Are you sure it fits under the seat, it seems pretty long?

Link: PN1.650D - Soundstream
 

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I would have to take measurements again but I'm almost certain when I was researching it that it would fit with modification to the bracket of course. It is the PN5.640D that I was going to try. According to Amazon, It is 4.75W" x 1.5"H x 10.3" L.
Amazon.com: Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano 640 W 5-Channel Class D Digital Car Audio Amplifier: Car Electronics

I just checked, post #18 has the factory dimensions
It is slightly bigger than factory but I think it would still fit fine. Now as for performance, I have no idea. Maybe someone can weigh in on that one....
 

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I have been running two Alpine PDX amps 400x4 and 900x5. the PDX v9 is a 5 channel 100x4 and 500x1. its a very small footprint and has the plug in style wire connectors. For speakers in the front I have focal 4" and tweeters and JL Audio c5 6.5 in the rear. Two JL subs in the trunk. im running an active set up each speaker has its own amp channel.

I would figure out what speakers you want to use first. that way you can get the right amp to power them. when looking at different amps pay attention to the power level at 4 OHM's most speakers at 4 Ohm's. Also look at the speakers sensitivity level the higher the sensitivity the louder the speaker will be given the same power and volume level.

If you look on car audio forums you can find a ton of reviews on different amps.

Let us know what you decide to go with.
 

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I run an alpine m500 amp under my passenger seat. Plenty of room. It powers a single 10" JL10w3v3 sub. I have no idea what 4 channel amps will fit. Honestly there are a lot of newer head units that have some pretty good built in amps already. That's what I plan on going to. Just run a heavier gauge wire to the head unit. The sony XAV-AX7000 has 45Wx4 at RMS and 100W peak. The alpine iLx-W650 is a slim double din that has an optional amp that can be added to the back to get 50Wx4 at RMS.



More pics here:

 

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I used a Kenwood X801-5 5-Channel Amp, and mounted it with a slab of plywood under my passenger seat. I paired it with a Kenwood DDX6905S head unit, 6.5" speakers for the 4 main channels, and stuck a new 6x8 in the factory sub box. Not gonna win any shows, but it works well enough. (I know that's not a good ground hookup, but I couldn't find any of the pictures I took since I fixed that.)

251302
 

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As smooth_ev mentioned, it's important to match the system as a whole for the best results. You want to make sure that the amp suites the speakers power requirements.

As far as amps go stick to the reputable brands. You mostly get what you pay for. Be sure to compare power ratings as RMS at 4 ohms, and keep in mind that your typical less expensive brands tend to be quite overly optimistic when it comes to ratings and their claims are not usually certified.
In my experience (8+ years professional car audio) the JL HD amps will pretty much be the best as far as sound quality and build quality out of the main stream amps, but they are expensive. Alpine PDX amps would be next, then Kenwood Excelon amps. The compact amps do get hot so room for ventilation is important. The Kenwood amps (XR900-5) were good amps but they ran extremely hot and I have personally seen several either DOA or fail. That has been a few years ago though too... hasn't been my profession since 2016... so the newer XR901-5 could be more reliable. They do have a 2 year warranty as well.
A 5 channel amp will be your best bet so JL Audio HD900/5, Alpine PDX-5 or PDX-V9, Kenwood XR901-5.

Your best bet is to go to a local car audio shop and actually listen to some speakers first hand. Only you can decide what sounds good or good enough to you. A decent audio shop should have at least a few of the amps to demo as well so you can get an idea of sound quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As smooth_ev mentioned, it's important to match the system as a whole for the best results. You want to make sure that the amp suites the speakers power requirements.

As far as amps go stick to the reputable brands. You mostly get what you pay for. Be sure to compare power ratings as RMS at 4 ohms, and keep in mind that your typical less expensive brands tend to be quite overly optimistic when it comes to ratings and their claims are not usually certified.
In my experience (8+ years professional car audio) the JL HD amps will pretty much be the best as far as sound quality and build quality out of the main stream amps, but they are expensive. Alpine PDX amps would be next, then Kenwood Excelon amps. The compact amps do get hot so room for ventilation is important. The Kenwood amps (XR900-5) were good amps but they ran extremely hot and I have personally seen several either DOA or fail. That has been a few years ago though too... hasn't been my profession since 2016... so the newer XR901-5 could be more reliable. They do have a 2 year warranty as well.
A 5 channel amp will be your best bet so JL Audio HD900/5, Alpine PDX-5 or PDX-V9, Kenwood XR901-5.

Your best bet is to go to a local car audio shop and actually listen to some speakers first hand. Only you can decide what sounds good or good enough to you. A decent audio shop should have at least a few of the amps to demo as well so you can get an idea of sound quality.
Hey,

I took your advice and found a JL 900/5 amp. Got to find some good 4” for the front enclosures because I don’t like how the 6.5 sound in the open brackets.

Any recommendations? JL has some, C5-400CM, has anyone used them?
 

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Very nice choice on the amp.

The JL C5's are a really good quality speaker. Hertz EMV 100 would be another great choice too. Definitely stick with a mid-range component speaker such as either of these rather than a coaxial speaker as they will give you more mid bass and better overall sound. Be sure to get the matching tweeters and crossovers as well. And be careful with the amp adjustments. The smaller speakers are more sensitive to low frequencies and power.

A 6.5" will sound much better than a 4" as they have better output, volume and low/mid range... but as you mentioned not with an open bracket. You can use a foam speaker baffle with the open bracket to improve sound quality over just using the bracket itself. They are cheap and easy to find. And Dynamat on the bracket will help too.
Ideally, and for the best sound quality, you would want to use speaker plates that cover the entire opening, cover and seal them with Dynamat then seal up all of the other door openings with plates and/or Dynamat too. Dynamat the backside of the exterior door skin before all of that and then the inner door skin after as well. This will essentially make the entire door an enclosure. Dynaliner directly behind the speaker (on backside of the exterior door skin) will help too. It really just depends how involved you want to get. It all adds time, cost and weight but does it improve sound quality significantly.

Are you planning on running rear speakers as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Very nice choice on the amp.

The JL C5's are a really good quality speaker. Hertz EMV 100 would be another great choice too. Definitely stick with a mid-range component speaker such as either of these rather than a coaxial speaker as they will give you more mid bass and better overall sound. Be sure to get the matching tweeters and crossovers as well. And be careful with the amp adjustments. The smaller speakers are more sensitive to low frequencies and power.

A 6.5" will sound much better than a 4" as they have better output, volume and low/mid range... but as you mentioned not with an open bracket. You can use a foam speaker baffle with the open bracket to improve sound quality over just using the bracket itself. They are cheap and easy to find. And Dynamat on the bracket will help too.
Ideally, and for the best sound quality, you would want to use speaker plates that cover the entire opening, cover and seal them with Dynamat then seal up all of the other door openings with plates and/or Dynamat too. Dynamat the backside of the exterior door skin before all of that and then the inner door skin after as well. This will essentially make the entire door an enclosure. Dynaliner directly behind the speaker (on backside of the exterior door skin) will help too. It really just depends how involved you want to get. It all adds time, cost and weight but does it improve sound quality significantly.

Are you planning on running rear speakers as well?
I must say that dynamat in the doors is a little more far than I want to go. I am not a huge audiophile but I want something with nice bass and sound 21st century like. I heard a friend’s system with 4” aftermarket replacements and they sound darn good to me and fit what I want. I am not sure what he had for speakers but it was not anything to crazy based on the price he paid.

I will be using rear speakers and snagged up a set of rear speaker ENCLOSURES! These apparently make the sound much better! For a sub, I am thinking about a Wicked CAS box because I don’t think the stock sub box would even be worth it.

I am trying to put together a neat positive cable wiring setup from the battery. I would like to come off the stock battery terminal with a 90 degree eyelet to a fuse right away and then into the cabin. I really don’t want to cut the stock positive cable and run a aftermarket block. I completely acknowledge how I am overthinking this part but I want a really neat setup with the battery in the stock location.
 

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If you liked your friend's 4" then you should be plenty happy going with either the JL or Hertz 4" in the factory enclosures. You could add some Dynamat and Dynaliner to the enclosure to help some but really you should be fine without.
A good quality rear speaker (preferably one that matches the fronts that you choose) in the rear enclosures will help to add mid bass and overall sound output. You can go with a coaxial or if you'd like more mid bass just go with a 6.5" component speaker (mid woofer). The rear speakers are pretty close to your head in the Supra so a coaxial can be too much high range for some. And the rear enclosures do help a lot for sure. Speakers just perform better in enclosures.

A sub is definitely needed to round out the sound quality and provide good bass. A Wicked CAS box would be a great choice. The JL W3 woofers are great sounding and performing.

Sounds like a perfect plan for your battery connection as well. Run a good, pure copper 4 awg and keep the fuse within the first 12" and you'll be fine, closer is best. And no need to go aftermarket terminal or cut the factory cables either. Make sure that your ground cable to your amp is 4 awg as well. Also make sure it's to a clean solid ground (no factory bolts or under brackets) and keep it as short as possible.

Definitely should be a great sounding system.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you liked your friend's 4" then you should be plenty happy going with either the JL or Hertz 4" in the factory enclosures. You could add some Dynamat and Dynaliner to the enclosure to help some but really you should be fine without.
A good quality rear speaker (preferably one that matches the fronts that you choose) in the rear enclosures will help to add mid bass and overall sound output. You can go with a coaxial or if you'd like more mid bass just go with a 6.5" component speaker (mid woofer). The rear speakers are pretty close to your head in the Supra so a coaxial can be too much high range for some. And the rear enclosures do help a lot for sure. Speakers just perform better in enclosures.

A sub is definitely needed to round out the sound quality and provide good bass. A Wicked CAS box would be a great choice. The JL W3 woofers are great sounding and performing.

Sounds like a perfect plan for your battery connection as well. Run a good, pure copper 4 awg and keep the fuse within the first 12" and you'll be fine, closer is best. And no need to go aftermarket terminal or cut the factory cables either. Make sure that your ground cable to your amp is 4 awg as well. Also make sure it's to a clean solid ground (no factory bolts or under brackets) and keep it as short as possible.

Definitely should be a great sounding system.
Thanks bud. Some definitely good advice here.

I checked your page, what size were the tweeters? I appears the JL tweeters come with a “module” that you wire in which eliminate the need for the cross over box.

Here is the tweeter I might go with if it fits:


I am trying to match the speakers used to the amp to have get the maximum potential with the limitation of stock sizes.

JL offers a full setup here which I believe fits what I want to do and included the tweeter above:


I have one question though for the audiophiles, what is the difference in the crossover boxes versus the module used:

Crossover box shown here:



Crossovers filter:


I just want to make sure there is enough space to put that cross over box behind the door panel if I have to use it.
 

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IIRC the factory tweeters are .75" but you have to destroy them to get them out unless you want to remove your entire dash (the tweeters are mounted with a screw from underneath). You need to modify the grille base (the plastic, not the mesh) to allow for new tweeters. Mount the tweeters underneath and cut the grille base so that it doesn't block the front of the new tweeter. This way you can retain the factory grille which looks best.

In my opinion the JL C5-653 would be the best way to go if you're going with JL. It would include all of the speakers that you need... 6.5", 4" and .75" tweeter. And also the correct crossover for all speakers. The crossovers are not capable of bi-amplifying though so I would just use them for the 4"s and tweeters and run the rear 6.5"s direct off of the rear channel of the amp (and adjust the amp crossovers for them). Mount the JL crossovers under one of the seats or under dash rather than in the doors. Moisture and movement/vibration will kill them. Just don't mount them right next to the amp or other electronics.

The difference between a crossover and the modules is that the crossover is specifically tuned for each speaker that it comes with. It sends the specific frequency range that each speaker wants (both high and low range) where as the modules (often called caps or bass blockers) just cut off below a preset frequency range. They are available with different cut offs.
The JL modules that you linked to are better than the typical aftermarket ones but they are for the C2 rather than the C5 speakers so would not be optimal if you're going to run the C5 set.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
IIRC the factory tweeters are .75" but you have to destroy them to get them out unless you want to remove your entire dash (the tweeters are mounted with a screw from underneath). You need to modify the grille base (the plastic, not the mesh) to allow for new tweeters. Mount the tweeters underneath and cut the grille base so that it doesn't block the front of the new tweeter. This way you can retain the factory grille which looks best.

In my opinion the JL C5-653 would be the best way to go if you're going with JL. It would include all of the speakers that you need... 6.5", 4" and .75" tweeter. And also the correct crossover for all speakers. The crossovers are not capable of bi-amplifying though so I would just use them for the 4"s and tweeters and run the rear 6.5"s direct off of the rear channel of the amp (and adjust the amp crossovers for them). Mount the JL crossovers under one of the seats or under dash rather than in the doors. Moisture and movement/vibration will kill them. Just don't mount them right next to the amp or other electronics.

The difference between a crossover and the modules is that the crossover is specifically tuned for each speaker that it comes with. It sends the specific frequency range that each speaker wants (both high and low range) where as the modules (often called caps or bass blockers) just cut off below a preset frequency range. They are available with different cut offs.
The JL modules that you linked to are better than the typical aftermarket ones but they are for the C2 rather than the C5 speakers so would not be optimal if you're going to run the C5 set.


I will be using the factory tweeter covers for sure. I like the mix of factory stuff and aftermarket. Toyota did get a lot right with the MKIV so I have no reason to change if it suits.

That package has everything that I want which is why I want to use it! Like to you said, it has the 4”, the 6.5” and the tweeter as well. I was planning to mount the crossover in the door but definitely going to avoid that as the manual says to keep it out of the door! Under the passenger seat seems like a perfect spot for all of the crossovers, for both sides.

I’ll just have to figure out how to route all the wires for the speakers. I am probably going to run it behind the radio and follow the dash harness and mount it along that. Last thing I want is chaffing.

Just got to order some wire and I’ll be set, I am definitely keeping this thread updated so people can follow if they want to do an upgrade.
 
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