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Most people just pick a brand they like.

Same with cams.
The Kelford T202C and the GSC S1 are very similar in duration, timing, and lift.
Business. There might be slight differences here and there with valve stagger and opening speed, but they show up dressed the same and give similar results.
 

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Here are my dyno results with stock cams and around 22psi on 93 pump. Engine is bone stock. Conservative tune on a mustang dyno.


This is on E60 with Kelford 264/272 VVTi cams and about 25psi on a dynapack
 

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Running GSC S1 cams and AEM v2 has a great steady idle mine doesn't lope much just a little on cold start, alpha tuned car

made 630 on 93 and 876 on E85 spinning on the dyno
630whp on 93? What are your engine specs? How much boost?
 

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There aren't many dry sump setups because of cost and because there isn't a dry sump solution that retains A/C. I agree that a dry sump would be awesome, and likely have HP gains and improved crankcase ventilation, but with so many other options for more HP, the not-overwhelming demand for higher rpm builds, and the loss of A/C, it hasn't been pursued very often except by serious road racers, etc.

There's a lot of discussion and thought about crankcase pressures in 2JZ's, for the most part the turbo oil drain tends to be -10AN and it's routed well into the upper oil pan so by the time crankcase pressure started preventing free oil drain, there'd be much bigger issues, such as the 2JZ's tendency to push out the FMS with lots of boost and insufficient crankcase ventilation. Most aftermarket setups go to a passive catch can and -10AN or -12AN lines to each valve cover. Inelegant but generally effective for most builds. I prefer closed PCV systems connected to a pre-turbo vacuum source.

Similarly, ITB's have been seldom explored on 2JZ's and most of them are NA builds. A short-runner intake manifold with suitable plenum volume and a big-enough single throttle body uncorks the limitations of the stock manifold at higher RPM and HP/boost levels and getting the best possible throttle response and boost thresholds aren't of as much concern as are consistent airflow and max HP. This is evidenced clearly with how most Supra builds are in their ideal element on a open stretch of highway, 1/2 mile event, or drag strip - not a road course.

Our thinking is very similar, and I'd love to build the hypothetical ideal 2JZ (ITB'd, high RPM, dry sump, etc) but my means are pretty limited for such an endeavor.

You said "I prefer closed PCV systems connected to a pre-turbo vacuum source. "

Does this mean deleting the oem pcv, welding -an fitting to both valve covers, routing to catch can that has 3 orfices, and the third line to the intake pipe?

Why is this your preference Wreckless?
 

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You said "I prefer closed PCV systems connected to a pre-turbo vacuum source. "

Does this mean deleting the oem pcv, welding -an fitting to both valve covers, routing to catch can that has 3 orfices, and the third line to the intake pipe?

Why is this your preference Wreckless?
That’s exactly how mine is setup. I didn’t weld any fittings to the valve covers, though. I used the friction fit Radium adapters that are 10AN. They are like 50$ apiece, super easy to install and look clean. Each side is different, so if you go this route get one of each.

I prefer the pre-turbo plumbing method because on a turbo car, that’s the only place you have constant vacuum. Especially when there’s positive manifold pressure you want to be evacuating those crankcase pressures/gases. It just is more intuitive.
 

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That’s exactly how mine is setup. I didn’t weld any fittings to the valve covers, though. I used the friction fit Radium adapters that are 10AN. They are like 50$ apiece, super easy to install and look clean. Each side is different, so if you go this route get one of each.

I prefer the pre-turbo plumbing method because on a turbo car, that’s the only place you have constant vacuum. Especially when there’s positive manifold pressure you want to be evacuating those crankcase pressures/gases. It just is more intuitive.
Exactly this! The Radium stuff is kick ass and worth every penny.
 

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Think I got mine on eBay, they were on sale for like 55$ ea shipped. The normal price wasn’t much higher everywhere else, like 65$ ea shipped.
 
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