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Just found this tread and its very cool!
Welcome to the thread :) Sounds like you have a pretty cool project going on, look forward to hearing more!

Finished my final brake bleed today. Turned the engine on and was concerned with the pedal feel at first since it was still sinking to the floor if I pushed on it lightly with no pumping. The more I worked it the better it started to feel until I felt like it was good enough to go out for a trial run on. Glad I did, cause it was totally fine. It seriously feels like it has double the braking power now compared to how it felt before. Before a full hard stop from 30-40mph would result in this really heavy feeling pulsing ABS stop. Now the fronts lock down hard and even skid/chirp while the ABS pulses. Also isn't pulling to the left anymore while braking. Night and day difference.

Was fun to have the Supra up off the ground with all 4 shoes off. I did a little "air driving" with the wheels off to watch the rear brakes in action while I was fiddling with the pedal. Never done that before!
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Tomorrow I'm going to investigate a squealing noise that I heard coming from the passenger side at the end of my run. Everything was quiet for most of the run, but as I was coming back after maybe 20-30 minutes of driving I could hear a squeal, almost like from a pad wear indicator, that would go away as soon as I touched the brake. It would remain quiet as you coasted but if you gave it some gas it would gradually come back again. Going to pop the wheels off on that side again to have a look. I'm thinking either I got really unlucky and something got stuck up there against the rotor on the drive or the brake hardware brackets might be flexing or bent and making contact with the rotor. Hopefully it's not too hard to track down. I'm still blown away by how much better the brakes are right now in this car, I've never felt them this good for the almost 20 years I've owned the car.

Also, while I was working, had something pretty cool arrive :)
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Finally put in the euro-spec front turn signal lenses. And even though I put new tail light gaskets in last summer, water seems to still be getting in and tripping the tail light warning light on the dash, so I pulled that area apart a bit to inspect everything and tighten down the nuts. I doubt it's the problem, but there's also a small crack on the top outer edge of the lens, so I taped over that for now as a just-in-case measure.

And while driving through the parking lot to take the picture, I actually heard, "Is that a Supra?"

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@debrucer1 I remember your thread on SM very well. Hoping you'll recreate it here eventually, looking forward to more progress on your build.
I will eventually, but first I have to concentrate on starting 30 new discussions, so I can communicate with my friends:)

Good to see you here, too. Thanks for the encouragement:)
 

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I am thoroughly impressed that my engine ran at all with the distributor one tooth off, to the early side. Sure, it barely ran around 300rpm with no throttle response, but it still ran.
 

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Today I called Driftmotion to cancel the one piece holding up the rest of my shipment because I found one local.

As soon as it shows its Manual swap time.
 

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Nothing too crazy today. Found where my front suspension "clunk" was coming from, left front sway bar end link ended up being the culprit. I basically just followed some suggestions on YouTube, but just in case this might help here's what I did.

I isolated the sound as coming from just one side during a road test, got out and pushed down on the front left fender and was able to reproduce it (sounds a lot louder in the cabin while driving then it does when you're bouncing it at rest). Laid down next to the wheel and grabbed the sway bar near the end link and gave it a good tug up/down first, no movement, then front/back and that's where I found my clunk. I could hear and feel one or both of the ball joints clicking around. I think it's the lower joint that's bad but kind of hard to tell exactly. Went to the other side just to compare and that one's solid as a rock, absolutely no movement at all, so that just helped me confirm that something is off on the drivers side.

Got new end links and sway bar bushings ordered from ye olde Toyota, glad to see all these still in stock. Looks like the end links in particular are used on quite a few vehicles including the mkIV so that's probably helped keep inventory up. She's going to be a pretty quiet ride with that clunk gone, looking forward to the install. I've started making my offerings to the old nuts and bolts gods already.
 

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Nothing too crazy today. Found where my front suspension "clunk" was coming from, left front sway bar end link ended up being the culprit. I basically just followed some suggestions on YouTube, but just in case this might help here's what I did.

I isolated the sound as coming from just one side during a road test, got out and pushed down on the front left fender and was able to reproduce it (sounds a lot louder in the cabin while driving then it does when you're bouncing it at rest). Laid down next to the wheel and grabbed the sway bar near the end link and gave it a good tug up/down first, no movement, then front/back and that's where I found my clunk. I could hear and feel one or both of the ball joints clicking around. I think it's the lower joint that's bad but kind of hard to tell exactly. Went to the other side just to compare and that one's solid as a rock, absolutely no movement at all, so that just helped me confirm that something is off on the drivers side.

Got new end links and sway bar bushings ordered from ye olde Toyota, glad to see all these still in stock. Looks like the end links in particular are used on quite a few vehicles including the mkIV so that's probably helped keep inventory up. She's going to be a pretty quiet ride with that clunk gone, looking forward to the install. I've started making my offerings to the old nuts and bolts gods already.
Yes. Appease the gods.
 

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My next little project is to fabricate a bracket to hold my wastegate actuator in place. It is a very tight space down there, and there's more to come when my hard-pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is in place. That hard-pipe also affects the two lines for the oil cooler which still have to be fabricated. I have 90 degree -AN fittings on there now, and have been advised that I may need something else. Waiting on doing those until I have done a trial fit under the hood.

For now, this is what I'm dealing with... the actuator. Any suggestions? I'm open to hear them.

IMG_2979.JPG IMG_2980.JPG IMG_2978.JPG IMG_2977.JPG IMG_2976.JPG
 

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For now, this is what I'm dealing with... the actuator. Any suggestions? I'm open to hear them.
The internal wastegate on my turbo is closed when the lever is in this position. In order to open it completely it must move 90 degrees from this position. From this position it must be pushed to open. The picture also shows the actuator rod held close to the lever. The flange on the front pipe had to be grinded down a bit so it would not catch the level as it is turned.
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There is a lot going on in this area. The big braided line is the oil return feed from the turbo to the side of the engine. The location was suggested by Aaron Kahn and he sold me the flange (Arizona Performance, or something like that). The small line is the turbo oil feed line running from the DriftMotion oil filter relocation plate (on the filtered side, I believe it was) to the top of the turbo. The piece I am holding in my hand is the TRITDT wastegate actuator with the longest of four supplied rods attached. The first picture shows it missing the swivel by about an inch. In reality it misses by more like two. I will have to make a new rod.

This appears to be the only location where I can get a proper angle to allow the wastegate go from closed to full open. The hose that is attached is setup with a line to my air compressor. The actuator moves 3/8" at 20 lbs., and all the way at 30 lbs. My turbo is rated for 475 to 650 hp at 22 lbs. The actuator comes with six springs each with a different BAR rating. A change is in order. But the fabrication of a bracket is necessary first.

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Over the two days that I have been futzing with this, I have taken about 30 pictures. None of them were worth a damn, and the next one was purely an accident. An iPhone is not made for one-handed shooting in an upside-down position. I thought I'd share the next pic to show what an old fart I am.

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As previously stated, if you have suggestions, tips or comments. I'm all ears. (and a little bit of belly, although you can't tell from this shot).

Cheers!
 

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Simple switcharoo today for aesthetics

Old sun damaged kick panel
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Also old, but not sun damaged kick panel
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While I was down there I sprayed all the moving parts of my clutch pedal and the shaft/grommet with little WD40 to go after a little creak noise that happens when I start to apply force on it. Musta hit a good spot cause the creak is gone now :)
 

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Worked under the hood, sanding and cleaning with acetone. Replaced a couple of vacuum lines that are on the car side (i.e., not on the engine), and also replaced a few on the engine. Also replaced the hose that goes up to the throttle body, and let me tell you, that's a little mother to install. Had to take one fuel line off to get my fat fingers through those slots in the lower intake. (More of my DNA in my baby). Repainted my charcoal canister and the bracket, and let it dry this time before reinstalling. I'd done it before and got my fingerprints in it. (not a bad idea to put fingerprints somewhere, in case the car ever gets stolen :) ). Added a couple of hose clamps and aligned a few to satisfy my OCD. Ordered a hose reducer for the turbo since the one that I had was 1/4" too large. Waiting for my endoscope to arrive... Amazon says "out for delivery", guess I will use it tomorrow. Drained my oil in preparation for that task. That needed to be done because the initial run isn't supposed to be done with synthetic oil. Happens to be what I need to change the oil of my BMW which is far overdue. Going to go home, eat, and take a nap. If I'm not dead tired I will wash our other cars. Productive day. Pictures never really look any different, but I feel good about what today has brought. Damn I'm hungry! Good day all.
 

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The boroscope was received, cost $40, and of course, the price went down to $27.85 today. I loaded the software on both my iPhone and a Windows 10 laptop and did an initial test. I was able to see an ARP 12-point nut, plus a bolt on the oil pump, but I didn't have time to use the angle lens adaptor that came with the scope. It works though... and came with an "incentive" to write an "honest review"... submit it with words, photo and video and they give you a $30 gift card.

That is totally against Amazon rules and they should be booted from the platform. I submitted my review and called them out on the fact... we will see if I get my gift card.

This really points out a problem with Amazon reviews. They cannot be trusted. We make it a habit to read only the one and two star reviews and base our buying decisions on those.

Still, the boroscope is pretty cool.

Update: I bought the two brackets to secure my TEMS motors to the front strut from a friend in Canada. Perfect, except I gave him the wrong ZIP code. The one I gave him was on a military base here, and I could not get in to inquire. I just received a message from my friend that they were just returned. They will be on their way back in the morning. Today is my lucky day!
 

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The internal wastegate on my turbo is closed when the lever is in this position. In order to open it completely it must move 90 degrees from this position. From this position it must be pushed to open. The picture also shows the actuator rod held close to the lever. The flange on the front pipe had to be grinded down a bit so it would not catch the level as it is turned.
View attachment 262231

There is a lot going on in this area. The big braided line is the oil return feed from the turbo to the side of the engine. The location was suggested by Aaron Kahn and he sold me the flange (Arizona Performance, or something like that). The small line is the turbo oil feed line running from the DriftMotion oil filter relocation plate (on the filtered side, I believe it was) to the top of the turbo. The piece I am holding in my hand is the TRITDT wastegate actuator with the longest of four supplied rods attached. The first picture shows it missing the swivel by about an inch. In reality it misses by more like two. I will have to make a new rod.

This appears to be the only location where I can get a proper angle to allow the wastegate go from closed to full open. The hose that is attached is setup with a line to my air compressor. The actuator moves 3/8" at 20 lbs., and all the way at 30 lbs. My turbo is rated for 475 to 650 hp at 22 lbs. The actuator comes with six springs each with a different BAR rating. A change is in order. But the fabrication of a bracket is necessary first.

View attachment 262232

Over the two days that I have been futzing with this, I have taken about 30 pictures. None of them were worth a damn, and the next one was purely an accident. An iPhone is not made for one-handed shooting in an upside-down position. I thought I'd share the next pic to show what an old fart I am.

View attachment 262233

As previously stated, if you have suggestions, tips or comments. I'm all ears. (and a little bit of belly, although you can't tell from this shot).

Cheers!
Still struggling with making a mount for the actuator for my internal waste-gate. Does anyone have ideas or perhaps can suggest a different actuator? I absolutely want to use the internal component, NOT go to an external one. There is so little space on the exhaust side of the engine. This is the last thing keeping me from installing the engine in the car. It's been years, but it's time now.

Ideas? Suggestions? Recommendations?
 

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Fab and weld up a bracket to hit the angle.
I'd help ya out, but I'm too far away.

Probably need to do it in person.
 

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Fab and weld up a bracket to hit the angle.
I'd help ya out, but I'm too far away.

Probably need to do it in person.
That has certainly been the plan all along. It's just so very tight down there. Don't know what I expected might be an alternative, just hoping there was one.
 
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