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Well I have walked out to my dealership overflow lot to check on my maroon supra that was has a spun bearing, I have a motor being built for that car. I called the shop where my other supra is to check on it.. that's the black one, I bought that car thinking it was a parts car, turns out its in better condition than the maroon one. Soo, long story short I have focused my attention to the black car. I know that car needs less work to get back road worthy.
 

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I think I finished all my hoses and vacuum lines with the exception of mounting the VSV down under the intake. I posted in the WTB section to try and get a couple of parts, I'm so close. I still have to mount the wastegate actuator, and also fabricate a bracket for the hall effect sensor on my 36-1 crank wheel. I was holding off on wiring the coils and injectors to do that once the engine is in, but a friend wants to wire his the same way, so that project is coming back to the front burner. I paid 20 bucks for a hose with a 90 degree bend in it for the valve going to the accordion intake pipe... half-knowing it will go away when I add my catch cans... still wanted it in place for the first trial fit of the engine in the bay. I bet to most people every picture I post looks the same, but I will post a few shots taken today. Tomorrow it's back in the engine bay to clean, sand and paint some more. I do dread how I will ache tomorrow night :( <sigh>

IMG_3062.JPG IMG_3063.JPG IMG_3064.JPG IMG_3065.JPG IMG_3066.JPG

Once this gets in the car I still have a lot to do... must finish fabricating my oil lines, mount the radiator and twin electric fans, mount the Aeromotive fuel pressure gauge, the catch cans and wiring mentioned above, make new lines for the ABS (as I cut them rather crudely when taking the engine out), and I'm guessing dozens of other little things I've long since forgotten about. Lots of under hood wiring needs to be fixed or replaced, the wires to the TEMS units. My brackets to mount the TEMS motors to the front strut are finally in transit from Canada. I gave the wrong ZIP code before, and they got returned. I'm glad they showed up back in Canada vs. the dead-letter office :)

I know the shifter has to come off before installing the engine and transmission, and my hydraulic ram will surely need bleeding. My motor mounts are both new, but somewhere along the line I buggered the threads on one, so I need to clean that up to take the right nut. Yeah, lots to do.

I drained the synthetic oil that was in the engine, as you're not supposed to break-in with synthetic. Have five quarts of conventional Castrol 5w-30 coming for Sunday. Still have to replace the transmission rear seal... oh, and drain the transmission oil, too, as it will run out the tail-shaft no matter what I do.
 

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I bet to most people every picture I post looks the same
Love seeing all these photos of the engine assembled outside of the car. Great reference actually.

Comment, I saw you have that rear 90 degree coolant hose secured with worm gear hose clamps. I recently replaced a bunch of my coolant hoses and wanted to use new hose clamps with the new hoses so I got a bunch of new worm gear clamps. So far I have had mixed results with them compared to the OEM constant tension spring clamps. Enough so that I plan on switching back over to the OEM clamps next time I drain the coolant even though the OEM clamps are pretty snug on the new silicone hoses. I actually already switched out the clamps on the other small 90 degree hose underneath the head water housing on the front side because it was leaking with the worm gear clamp. I switched back to the OEM clamps and it's a solid seal now. I've also had some small dribbles on the radiator hoses with the worm gear clamps that had me tighten them down a bit more than I'd like to.

You might have better clamps, mine were from a made in China Amazon kit plus a few from Napa, but wanted to share my experience since that rear hose is so hard to get to once the engine is installed.
 

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I paid 20 bucks for a hose with a 90 degree bend in it for the valve going to the accordion intake pipe... half-knowing it will go away when I add my catch cans... still wanted it in place for the first trial fit of the engine in the bay.
Is the 90degree hose at your air bypass valve/BOV connected to metallic tube going to IACV?
 

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Love seeing all these photos of the engine assembled outside of the car. Great reference actually.

Comment, I saw you have that rear 90 degree coolant hose secured with worm gear hose clamps. I recently replaced a bunch of my coolant hoses and wanted to use new hose clamps with the new hoses so I got a bunch of new worm gear clamps. So far I have had mixed results with them compared to the OEM constant tension spring clamps. Enough so that I plan on switching back over to the OEM clamps next time I drain the coolant even though the OEM clamps are pretty snug on the new silicone hoses. I actually already switched out the clamps on the other small 90 degree hose underneath the head water housing on the front side because it was leaking with the worm gear clamp. I switched back to the OEM clamps and it's a solid seal now. I've also had some small dribbles on the radiator hoses with the worm gear clamps that had me tighten them down a bit more than I'd like to.

You might have better clamps, mine were from a made in China Amazon kit plus a few from Napa, but wanted to share my experience since that rear hose is so hard to get to once the engine is installed.
I have a plastic tub with all my original clamps, old of course, but didn’t give any though to not using worm clamps. I’ll keep my eyes on them. Didn’t realize they were a problem. A couple of them sure look ugly though the was the piece hangs out after it passes under the worm. Two broke on me yesterday, the worm fell out. I’ve still got a couple to add, too. Thanks for the info. Appreciate it very much.
 

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Yes. That’s the one. I guess it won’t go away :)
Haha, it does play an important job.

Although if following OEM, the IACV should connect directly to the intake accordion; and the air bypass/BOV connects to air intake pipe before the throttle body.
I have limited experience with our cars; so I'm curious if that arrangement has worked for you.
 

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Haha, it does play an important job.

Although if following OEM, the IACV should connect directly to the intake accordion; and the air bypass/BOV connects to air intake pipe before the throttle body.
I have limited experience with our cars; so I'm curious if that arrangement has worked for you.
Honestly, I have no idea (as to how it's working). Thought I was following the pictures, diagrams, etc. that I've found. Will have to review... can easily be wrong. It won't be the first time I've re-done something.

This diagram from the TSRM is what I thought I was following:

temp.JPG


I do appear to have those two hoses reversed. Thanks for pointing that out... gently, I might add :) @OldBonus

Update: Fixed. Will upload before and after pics here after iCloud gets its job done.
 

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Honestly, I have no idea (as to how it's working). Thought I was following the pictures, diagrams, etc. that I've found. Will have to review... can easily be wrong. It won't be the first time I've re-done something.

This diagram from the TSRM is what I thought I was following:
OK, here's an old pic of how mine was routed:
262363


262360
 

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OK, here's an old pic of how mine was routed:
View attachment 262359

View attachment 262360
That's what I've got now. Can't get the picture posted but made the switch. It didn't destroy my 20 buck 90 degree hose, but the other one is a bit stressed now. It's okay, but I will keep my eyes open for a replacement with about another inch of length. iCloud is such a bottleneck for me when I'm at my garage :( Nice catch. Thank you again.

262362
 

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That's what I've got now. Can't get the picture posted but made the switch. It didn't destroy my 20 buck 90 degree hose, but the other one is a bit stressed now. It's okay, but I will keep my eyes open for a replacement with about another inch of length. iCloud is such a bottleneck for me when I'm at my garage :( Nice catch. Thank you again.
Looks like the BOV is connected to the PCV hard pipe now (should be able to follow it and see it connect to the upper valve cover hoses). Normally the BOV connects to the "3000" pipe.
 

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You want the proper connector to be able to clip the CPS to the mount instead of using zip ties?
I could send you one. :)
 

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You want the proper connector to be able to clip the CPS to the mount instead of using zip ties?
I could send you one. :)
I do. Yota Connectors has quit taking orders it seems. Thanks. Let me know how much and your PayPal address and I'll send some monies :)
 

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Looks like the BOV is connected to the PCV hard pipe now (should be able to follow it and see it connect to the upper valve cover hoses). Normally the BOV connects to the "3000" pipe.
It's not connected anywhere now. I haven't googled to even try, but there's no place on my 3000 pipe (after-marker version of). Everything on the top has to come off again so I can turn my COPs around and tuck in the new harness for them. Any suggestion on an alternate place to connect it?

Now that Piratetip is sending the connector for the CPS, I have to take that apart again, too. Worth it to get rid of thnse zip ties :)
 

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I do. Yota Connectors has quit taking orders it seems. Thanks. Let me know how much and your PayPal address and I'll send some monies :)
No cost just send me your address.
I'll send you a bunch of parts for that area. :)
 

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Why are you even using an OEM BOV? @debrucer1
Looks like you already have a Greddy BOV to atmosphere on the upper intake pipe.
I don't see the need to run 2.
 
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