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Why are you even using an OEM BOV? @debrucer1
Looks like you already have a Greddy BOV to atmosphere on the upper intake pipe.
I don't see the need to run 2.
The OEM part was on the car and I was simply putting it back. Honestly did not know the function. I originally was not going to use the metal pipe to the valve covers from the TB at all and have a catch can that I can't mount until engine is in the car (because I don’t know the space limitations). Decided to put as much of the original back as it was until then. I clearly did not know it was a BOV which is why I questioned hooking my BOV to the 3000 pipe :). Clearly, to me, the BOV was not attached.

I suspected that my 20 buck elbow hose was a waste and that all of that would disappear with the catch can. The valve in question looks like a gulp valve off a BMW and I didn’t relate it to a BOV.
 

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1987 Toyota Supra
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Ah, makes sense.

Yep get everything sorted out before the engine gets dropped into the bay.
A LOT easier to work on the engine while out of the vehicle.

Starts getting really cramped especially on the exhaust side once its in there.
 

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I mentioned before that I drained my synthetic Castrol and ordered a jug of “conventional” oil. It arrived yesterday and is just another flavor of synthetic. Searched again and found very few products (on Amazon, at least) that are real oil. The ones I did find were 6 qts @ $45, or up. Many want you to buy 15 quarts… which does go along in line with some peoples break-in procedures. (For example: Install oil & filter, run once and change, do again after a few miles, and again a few miles later.). I’m pretty sure that’s not the direction I’m going, but I’m not using synthetic initially. Frankly, I don’t know how much oil it will take with my filter and huge cooler at the end of long lines. Prolly 7 or 8 qts. TBD. I sort of wish my oil cooler had one connection on top and one on the bottom so that when I change the oil I can drain and refill it easily. That process, too, is TBD.

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the headlight does go down and clears, but I think I’m going to flip the cooler with the lines down to make routing the hoses cleaner. Again, not until I test fit the engine, perhaps as soon as next week.
 

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1989 Sport Roof White Pkg 7M-GTE
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pham sent me the front speaker pods for my '89. I went out in the stupid hot Houston sun and installed them today. I would once again like to say how much I appreciate that these late '80's cars are easy to work on. I had the door panel off in less than 10 minutes. Less than an hour total from beginning to end. Amazing how much better a stereo sounds with four speakers instead of two.
 

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Oh man, I feel so piddly with my work today compared to these engine out of the car work!

Today was new sway bar end link/bushing day. I posted a write up here to help anyone else that needs to do the same - Stock front sway bar end links/bushings remove and replace

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Went for a test drive and there is definitely LESS noise but I still haven't found everything. With the end link noise gone the remaining noise that's still there is sounding more like it's coming from the top part of the suspension, possibly the shocks. That'll be for next weekend to poke around in there more to see if I can isolate it. Thought I had it with these end links...almost!

Something exciting on Tuesday, going into a shop that will fill R12 freon. I haven't hard a working A/C system in over a decade. There's no guarantee that I'll walk away with a working A/C system but I'm willing to give it a try. The upshot would be incredible to have A/C again...fingers crossed 🤞
 

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Oh man, I feel so piddly with my work today compared to these engine out of the car work!

Today was new sway bar end link/bushing day. I posted a write up here to help anyone else that needs to do the same - Stock front sway bar end links/bushings remove and replace

View attachment 262405 View attachment 262406

Went for a test drive and there is definitely LESS noise but I still haven't found everything. With the end link noise gone the remaining noise that's still there is sounding more like it's coming from the top part of the suspension, possibly the shocks. That'll be for next weekend to poke around in there more to see if I can isolate it. Thought I had it with these end links...almost!

Something exciting on Tuesday, going into a shop that will fill R12 freon. I haven't hard a working A/C system in over a decade. There's no guarantee that I'll walk away with a working A/C system but I'm willing to give it a try. The upshot would be incredible to have A/C again...fingers crossed 🤞
Yeah. That’ll be nice to have. I charged my AC and converted the system from R-12 to R-134 before I ever tore things apart. I kept the compressor attached until about a year ago thinking I had refrigerant still in there. It wasn’t.

don’t know if the system can still work. Will address that after she’s running. Good luck. Hope it’s still operational.
 

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AutoZone is selling 5 qt jugs of Pennzoil 5w-20 (all they had) for 10 bucks a jug. The explanation was that all of the companies were discontinuing "conventional" oil in favor of synthetic and synthetic blends. He said they aren't even changing the product or part number, just changing the product. Guess that makes the $80 break-in oil the price of the future. I got three jugs, that's two oil changes with my huge oil cooler and lines. I already have three jugs of synthetic. Definitely did not mean to be stock-piling oil.
 

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Drained my transmission gear oil. Removed my gear shift lever. Cut off my coil wires and used heat shrink on the ends. Filled my hydraulic ram on the engine hoist and purged it of air. Moved the engine and transmission to the front of the garage in preparation for install Saturday morning at 8 AM. Two or three friends are coming to help me get it done. Created a list of other things that must be done by Saturday and will work on that list for a few hours every day this week.

AutoZone loaner torque wrench only goes to 150 ft.lbs., mine does that, too. Need to torque the crank bolt to 190. Since this is only a test fit, it can go in as it is, but absolutely do not want to accidentally run it that way. So much to do with the engine in the car that can't be done with it out. Measure and fabricate the oil hoses. Fit the turbo hard-pipes. Mount the radiator and dual electric fans. Finish the battery cables

It's been so long coming. I'm truly excited about Saturday.

This is going in...
IMG_3003.JPG

Here...
IMG_3072.JPG

Saturday :)
 

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AutoZone is selling 5 qt jugs of Pennzoil 5w-20 (all they had) for 10 bucks a jug. The explanation was that all of the companies were discontinuing "conventional" oil in favor of synthetic and synthetic blends. He said they aren't even changing the product or part number, just changing the product. Guess that makes the $80 break-in oil the price of the future. I got three jugs, that's two oil changes with my huge oil cooler and lines. I already have three jugs of synthetic. Definitely did not mean to be stock-piling oil.
Just tossing this out there for you, Royal Purple makes a break-in specific oil, I would highly recommend considering for that piece of art you have been building:

As for me, I pulled my trans out today..
 

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Just tossing this out there for you, Royal Purple makes a break-in specific oil, I would highly recommend considering for that piece of art you have been building:

As for me, I pulled my trans out today..
I'm going to use the Pennzoil 5s-20 with appropriate dose of zinc that I have coming from Amazon.I figure with my oil cooler that it will take 7+ quarts, so the 3 bottles I got will give me two changes. One after the first heat cycle and another after a couple hundred miles (if I should be so lucky). Then I will switch to Castrol full synthetic. Your advice isn't bad advice, and I don't disagree, it's just that I've set myself on this direction. But hey, there's a chip shortage and my ECU isn't built yet. It may take a year and I can change my mind many times :) My BMW is due for an oil change. Some of that synthetic can go in there. This build feels like it's been going forever now. Some people build rocket ships and fly to the edge of space in the same time that I build my car.

I have a website, although I don't update it or add to it very often. It was one of those impulses when I though it would be better to write stuff there than on the forums. Turned out that the forums were so much more fun. There is more story there though as to why I'm taking so long... life got in the way when I built my Buick powered Triumph TR7. The site is at ToyotaSupraTurbo.com. I get the engine in the car this Saturday. I'll have to update the site.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do appreciate it very much.

Edit: I was a parts man from 1963 until 1982, always imported cars, and was asked at least weekly "What oil should I be using?". The answer for all those years was the same, "Any good Pennsylvania grade oil." This was never once disputed by novice or professional. It's only in recent years that things have gotten more scientific, and while I'm sure there are advantages, I tend to continue to take the same advice I dished out :)
 

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Changed out my alternator. Kind of felt bad because I am pretty sure it was the original one but it is putting out less voltage then the battery. I was kind of surprised how much more peppy it felt so I rigged up a temporary digital volt meter and it looks like the stock gauge reads 0.5v higher then it actually is, so i think this thing has been running on edge the whole time. Got to love Denso alternators.
 

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I have working A/C again!!!!!

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She's filled up with R12 after being dry for probably 12 years. After filling up the system the compressor pulley clutch engaged, A/C fans turned on, ISC bumped up the idle speed, and glorious cold air once again came out from the air vents. I'm absolutely ecstatic, just in time for summer! Guys at the shop were really cool, admiring the car and engine bay asking me about all the work I did on it, lots of "You did all this?" Hell yeah I did!
 

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I have working A/C again!!!!!

View attachment 262495 View attachment 262494

She's filled up with R12 after being dry for probably 12 years. After filling up the system the compressor pulley clutch engaged, A/C fans turned on, ISC bumped up the idle speed, and glorious cold air once again came out from the air vents. I'm absolutely ecstatic, just in time for summer! Guys at the shop were really cool, admiring the car and engine bay asking me about all the work I did on it, lots of "You did all this?" Hell yeah I did!
Man that's awesome, I've never had good luck recharging a system thats been empty that long without replacing everything. Very.... Cool :cool:
 

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Only three items on my list of things to do for Saturday. 1) lift rear of car, 2) remove drive shaft and 3) buy beer and ice for the cooler. Everything else ready. I measured the height of the front nose at 2'6" and lifted my engine and transmission to 2'8". I also tied back everything that might get in the way in the engine bay, and pulled out furniture pads for the roof, both fenders and the radiator support. No scratches, please. It's Wednesday. I'll have trouble sleeping the next few nights. I am so ready.
 

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I drove mine again today!

I changed the radiator hoses because the top one wore out. And, I JB-Welded the BVSV connections because I dropped the thermostat housing while sanding the snout. I'm still cursing myself for that. A new one is on the way. That was an $80 annoyance.

In the not-too-distant future, I get to send my front Koni shocks off to be rebuilt. The passenger side one is leaking. I can't complain too much considering how very long they lasted.
 

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Breaking the BVSV nozzles is a right of passage on this car. I had mine epoxy'd back in with a copper pipe insert since my HG job back in 2002 up until this year :)

The lower gained a new "removable" feature with the vacuum hose
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It'll look good to have a nice shiny new part on top of the engine. FYI, my new one had some blue sealant already on the threads (it wasn't liquid, kinda tacky/hard) out of the box and I've had no leaks from directly threading it into the housing as is.
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