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261 Posts
Very nice!
Do those Blue timing belts she'd material all over the place on the 2JZ like they do on the 7M?
Gates racing timing belt?
Only initially, i cleaned up mine after 1k miles, blue dust was everywhere :p.
 

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10,483 Posts
For Eau Rouge:

E-brake shoe adjustment/E-brake adjustment;
Installed Toyota Moulding Clips on leading edge of rear wheel wells (the clips that keep the trailing edge of the rear vented panels properly affixed);
Removed leaky oil return gasket and replace with new;
Installed new oil return line;
Installed NIB steering rack*

*In my experience, Toyota steering racks almost never go bad without at least a couple hundred thousand miles on them . Eau Rouge has only a bit over 61k chassis miles when I noticed a small leak and, then, moaning like a cat in heat. On the rack, we discovered a blown seal that puked fluid all over the floor. It was kind of hard to figure, but my best guess is that, with all the in and out of replacement motors (go here for the details: EAU ROUGE TODAY -- The Curse Has Been Lifted), I believe there is the distinct possibility the rack was improperly bled, maybe more than once. I guess all the driving I had been doing pre-COVID-19 may have been a factor as well. Anyway, with three cars, I'm having the old rack rebuilt "just in case".


Ken.
 

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Inline for the win
Joined
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4,725 Posts
For Eau Rouge:

E-brake shoe adjustment/E-brake adjustment;
Installed Toyota Moulding Clips on leading edge of rear wheel wells (the clips that keep the trailing edge of the rear vented panels properly affixed);
Removed leaky oil return gasket and replace with new;
Installed new oil return line;
Installed NIB steering rack*

*In my experience, Toyota steering racks almost never go bad without at least a couple hundred thousand miles on them . Eau Rouge has only a bit over 61k chassis miles when I noticed a small leak and, then, moaning like a cat in heat. On the rack, we discovered a blown seal that puked fluid all over the floor. It was kind of hard to figure, but my best guess is that, with all the in and out of replacement motors (go here for the details: EAU ROUGE TODAY -- The Curse Has Been Lifted), I believe there is the distinct possibility the rack was improperly bled, maybe more than once. I guess all the driving I had been doing pre-COVID-19 may have been a factor as well. Anyway, with three cars, I'm having the old rack rebuilt "just in case".


Ken.
Ken,

Good to hear that the red beast is getting closer to be "finished" (lol, we're never finished with these cars!)

I also replaced mine with a brand new Toyota unit 6 years when I put the stroker engine in. I have a 98 I'm restoring for an owner in which I will be doing the same due to current cost of the new steering rack.

DP
 

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698 Posts
Attempted to rebuild rear calipers for the race car, but having trouble removing the guide pins (I got 3 eventually, one is still stuck)


And for one caliper, the pistons are no good :(
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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3,522 Posts
Removed the rear bumper to replace the backup camera, which stopped working due to a broken wire. I think the body shop gorilla-fisted the wire through the grommet and broke the tiny power wire in the process, down to a thread. New backup camera installed, and I'll repair the wire on the old one and use it as a front parking camera on my 4Runner.
 

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261 Posts
Hey bud, that hose between those runners will get cooked.

If you want to use that turbo, I suggest hardlines. Especially for the drain for the turbo past the runners.
They are all SS lines wrapped in DEI covers. Every part of the exhaust system is ceramically coated. No problems for the past 4 years with this approach (y)
 

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296 Posts
Attempted to rebuild rear calipers for the race car, but having trouble removing the guide pins (I got 3 eventually, one is still stuck)

And for one caliper, the pistons are no good :(
There is a guy in the UK who makes all his own stainless parts for these and has stock of the material you need to replace when you split them.
 

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From the land down under
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4,189 Posts
I had quite a bit of surface rust on my rear subframe, so got out some wire brushes and sandpaper and spent a few hours tidying everything back up, then applied rust converter, and a couple of coats of black metal paint. Looks far better now.

While it was up on the hoist, I also replaced the gearbox and diff oil with Redline fluids (MT-90/75W-90), and flushed/bled the brakes.

I also replaced the engine oil with 0W-40 Castrol Edge, and flushed the power steering fluid.

It always feels great knowing that all the fluids are new, and that the car is as good as it can be :)
 

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1993 MK4 TT6 US-spec, 1994 MK4TT6 UK-spec (Wreck), 1994 MK4 TT6 JAP-spec
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5 Posts
Thanks! A little rusty in the art game, but i got happy with the result. Gave some kind og Miami style in the Garage..
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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3,522 Posts
Added a rear-view camera to my NA (shows through the Sony XAV-AX100 head unit) and resoldered the left telltale light module (check engine light sometimes didn't light upon startup).
 

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Super Moderator
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10,483 Posts
Changed the oil and installed Andy's keyless entry remote in my hard top. The P 'n P kit is top notch and can be found here: PNP Keyless Entry Kits


Ken.
 

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32 Posts
Replaced my intake and rad pipe clamps with billet aluminum pipe clamps from Phase 2 Motortrend. Went with gold anodizing to continue the gold accent theme on my car. I think they look amazing.
251232
 

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