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all the vvti motors are the same, so its like an IS300 basically, yes.

vvti has crappier pistons and pencil thin rods, otherwise the block itself is the same block with some small differences.

your options depend on what you want to achieve. if you just want to rebuild as in yours has a lower end problem a is300 motor would do the trick.
A lower mileage one won't help though if you want to turbocharge it and run more than low boost, for that you will need pistons and rods and probably just install to your currrent motor, or you could swap in a non-vvti block and use your current head and electronics (the oil pump and crank sensor would need to be installed onto non vvti block along with other little stuff).

if you can live with low boost then you can na-t your current motor as is but the key is a solid tune.
if you want to swap that is an option as well. really depends on what you are looking to do.
 

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I would even look at a GTE VVTi for mild boost, I paid $1300 for mine and dropped it in the IS and had no problems out of it. Not sure if you could use the aristo ecu though without a patch harness.
 

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Champagne Papi
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
all the vvti motors are the same, so its like an IS300 basically, yes.

vvti has crappier pistons and pencil thin rods, otherwise the block itself is the same block with some small differences.

your options depend on what you want to achieve. if you just want to rebuild as in yours has a lower end problem a is300 motor would do the trick.
A lower mileage one won't help though if you want to turbocharge it and run more than low boost, for that you will need pistons and rods and probably just install to your currrent motor, or you could swap in a non-vvti block and use your current head and electronics (the oil pump and crank sensor would need to be installed onto non vvti block along with other little stuff).

if you can live with low boost then you can na-t your current motor as is but the key is a solid tune.
if you want to swap that is an option as well. really depends on what you are looking to do.
Thank you for the info Ali!
I would even look at a GTE VVTi for mild boost, I paid $1300 for mine and dropped it in the IS and had no problems out of it. Not sure if you could use the aristo ecu though without a patch harness.
I've heard and read its a nightmare of a swap.. I feel I am better off going NA-T.
 

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I almost bought a VVTi Supra, I was going to swap and run a piggy on it. Although I have Settled on N/A-T for the supra so I can use it to troll. Seems like most assume a N/A-T is only pushing 300-400 lol.


Have you thought about going GTE VVTi with a piggy back?
 

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if you are having a harness made a gte vvti swap wouldn't be a bad idea, the swap itself is no different from a regular gte swap except for the wiring differences.
since you are already vvti if you are thinking swap definately go for the vvti gte, they make more power. people are afraid of new things, but they have been out long enough that people are starting to make the switch over to vvti gte's now. hard to argue with the same reliability but making more power.

harnesses are costly but then again so is rebuilding a motor, may be worth looking into.

I would note that none of those would pass emissions, unless you ran it on your n/a ecu with a very good piggyback (like aem fi/c in full intercept mode.. think lots of wiring).
you could also run a na-t like that, but if you dont have to pass emissions I would just go standalone on a vvti na-t setup. you may be able to run the aristo ecu even if the plugs are similar and avoid all the piggyback stuff, that is like what I do running a jdm 2jzgte ecu on my 2jzge motor, I just used the right injectors and map sensor and bam it works.

if the vvti connectors are the same between ge and gte, I would look into that for na-t. usually only requires a little bit of wiring and the coilpacks are the same between GE and GTE so really all that is left is the airflow stuff and since all na-t is single turbo you can use the harness already in your car, you dont need to add wires for the twins.
 

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I've swapped a '98 n/a to 2jzgte non vvti. Things I learned:

The swap really wasn't hard, I used a brand new harness, not sure if they are even available now.

I went single, stock twins would have been just as easy. There was a ton of stuff to swap to make it a true turbo car, I used a combo of used and new parts.

The bad:

1. Won't pass emissions since I swapped to OBD1, probably could get a OBD2 ecu and then could maybe pass emissions.
2. Cruise does not work, the '98 vvti uses cruise through the ecu, this was a surprise, I'm sure I can get around it with some wiring.

Everything else works and the car runs great.

I just picked up another '98, this one is hardtop. I'm going to swap all the 6-speed stuff first and leave it n/a for a bit. Then I will swap vvti gte or might go na-t but will need to change pistons and rods. The rods are tiny in the '98 vvti motor and heard will fail around 400 rwhp.

What are your goals? Are you going to run the n/a auto transmission, if I remember correctly your '98 is also a hardtop?
 

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Champagne Papi
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I've swapped a '98 n/a to 2jzgte non vvti. Things I learned:

The swap really wasn't hard, I used a brand new harness, not sure if they are even available now.

I went single, stock twins would have been just as easy. There was a ton of stuff to swap to make it a true turbo car, I used a combo of used and new parts.

The bad:

1. Won't pass emissions since I swapped to OBD1, probably could get a OBD2 ecu and then could maybe pass emissions.
2. Cruise does not work, the '98 vvti uses cruise through the ecu, this was a surprise, I'm sure I can get around it with some wiring.

Everything else works and the car runs great.

I just picked up another '98, this one is hardtop. I'm going to swap all the 6-speed stuff first and leave it n/a for a bit. Then I will swap vvti gte or might go na-t but will need to change pistons and rods. The rods are tiny in the '98 vvti motor and heard will fail around 400 rwhp.

What are your goals? Are you going to run the n/a auto transmission, if I remember correctly your '98 is also a hardtop?

No its targa and I'm trying to keep it Auto, I don't know if I should keep it GE or go GTE (vvti or non).. eitherway i'm going stand alone so i'm not concerned with emissions. What i'm having difficulty with is figuring out who to use to do the swap as I don't have the time to attempt this myself. Goals would be to have a fast auto drag car.
 

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I have a 98 na, I did the whole nat and Tt swap.

I recommend the gte swap non vvti. Going nat will be difficult to tune since its obd2.

Some 98 na's have lsd as an option, ask Toyota to run your vin to see if yours does.
 

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Champagne Papi
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Discussion Starter #10
I have a 98 na, I did the whole nat and Tt swap.

I recommend the gte swap non vvti. Going nat will be difficult to tune since its obd2.

Some 98 na's have lsd as an option, ask Toyota to run your vin to see if yours does.
Thanks for the input, so non-vvti swap is the way to go!? What did you do to the wiring harness?
 

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Well I'm biased I purchased a crashed 98 TT auto and swapped everything over. The only Thing I didnt swap were the harnesses (engine bay, chassis and dash). I'm running a aem v2. The only thing not working is cruise which I didn't care for because I don't use it
 

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if you are not concerned about emissions, then na-t being obd2 does not matter. its a 2jz bud you can use whatever harness and ecu you want on it but in the OP's case of starting with a vvti I agree a swap makes more sense.

Swap:
simplest is a 2jzgte non vvti swap. you can use a supra turbo usdm harness, no need for a swap harness in this car although its around the same price new. easy to tune on standalones is a plus.

more power/fun is a 2jzgte vvti swap. since you dont care about emissions you can run this on a standalone also, one more thing to tune but these days tuners know how to tune the vvti motors and they make more power all across the power band. also they are about 1k cheaper than the non vvti which have gone up in price.
It will need a swap harness.... but remember its 1k cheaper so you can buy one.

I normally would put na-t first, but since you have a vvti block, for real power you would have to get a non vvti GE and then na-t it or install rods pistons etc... at that point a 2jzgte swap makes a whole bunch of sense. If you had a non vvti 2jzge, then na-t all day strap a turbo to it and a headgasket and crank up the boost, but with vvti its not the case. the extra cost of a gte is worth it from your point cause you get the coils.. ffim... everything.

So what I am saying is as far as installation and plugging in a harness, there is no difference between a non vvti and vvti 2jzgte swap.
The harness is different, but you will be having one made for the vvti, or ordering a new one for the non-vvti... so cost on that is the same.
The difference is the vvti is the newer one, likely to be in better shape, 1k cheaper to import, gives more power.... and the only downside is you need a tuner who can set up vvti on your standalone.

more and more people are deciding its worth it to go vvti, and more and more tuners can tune it. believe it or not "tuning" vvti is just entering in a page full of settings and maybe a few small tweaks. the extra spool though is definitely worth it, my next motor is going to be vvti. Hop on the next wave of 2jz motors early, don't pay premium for the one that makes less power nowadays cause of a harness or not being able to tune it, those are things that are fully solvable.

now if you had said you needed to do emissions at some point, then a non vvti 2jzgte swap with an obd2 2jzgte supra ecu would be the ideal and only choice with a usdm egr stuck on it.
 

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Champagne Papi
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
^ Thanks for the info. Just to clarify non vvti and vvti are the same price here in LA. With that being said, would you still recommend going with VVTI?
 

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Ali_Sc3 would your opinion change on going 2jzgte vvti over 2jzgte non vvti if the op was going to stay on the stock ecu? Every example I have seen where vvti was chosen the car was going stand alone. I am wondering what your opinion would be if the end goal was to stay on the stock ecu.
 

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Ali_Sc3 would your opinion change on going 2jzgte vvti over 2jzgte non vvti if the op was going to stay on the stock ecu? Every example I have seen where vvti was chosen the car was going stand alone. I am wondering what your opinion would be if the end goal was to stay on the stock ecu.
I also have a '98 Sc300 that I bought that was already swapped v160 6-speed and Vvti 2jzgte. Its running on the stock ecu with a single turbo at 14 psi. I haven't had it dyno'd yet, seems like its still pretty rich so can probably up the boost some.

Only weird thing I've noticed on the stock ecu is sometimes the idle will dip real low then come back up when coming to a stop, every once in a while it will die from dipping down to low, so stock ecu is still a good option for the swap.

I would definately go Vvti, standalone is not necessary and its a more modern motor.
 

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^ Thanks for the info. Just to clarify non vvti and vvti are the same price here in LA. With that being said, would you still recommend going with VVTI?
Yes vvti is all around better, unless you don't like having more power...
the main reasons to go non vvti would be if you want to have potential to pass emissions with a USDM obd2 ECU, or if you don't want to mess with vvti and tuning.

If you just get a swap harenss and run the stock vvti ecu, then you wont need tuning anyway, only if you go bigger on injectors etc.. of you just really want to be standalone.

Ali_Sc3 would your opinion change on going 2jzgte vvti over 2jzgte non vvti if the op was going to stay on the stock ecu? Every example I have seen where vvti was chosen the car was going stand alone. I am wondering what your opinion would be if the end goal was to stay on the stock ecu.
what do you mean by stock ecu, like the stock ecu the vvti motors come with?

they are just going standalone cause they are probably modifying it alot, but if you have a stockish vvti motor it will run just fine on the stock vvti ecu.
see what Jsantesson wrote, his is running fine on the stock ecu it sounds like. in fact its better if you use the stock ecu cause then there is no vvti tuning needed.

without concern for emissions, both of them will run fine on their respective stock ecu's.
vvti runs fine on a vvti ecu, and the swap harness takes car of the wiring.
non vvti runs fine on a non vvti ecu, and the supra harness for that year motor takes care of the wiring (your n/a wiring will not work on a gte unless you want to rewire stuff).

a standalone will run either one as long as it will plug into the harness you get.

really its just a mater of preference nowadays. vvti is newer, makes more power.. but the ecu uses a maf and the wiring is different but you can get that done.
non vvti is more straight forward, wiring is more plug and play with the expensive supra harness, but now the motors are older.

I wouldn't go vvti just cause I said so, I am just throwing it out there that lots of folk are moving to vvti and what kept them from doing it before is people saying oh its so much easier to swap non vvti or you have to go standalone or you have to find someone special to tune it etc..... don't believe all the hype, those guys are probably now getting vvti setups.

look into the facts and make a decision, its a gte motor either way so the end result will be awesome.
If you are going to tune it up a bunch and on standalone, make sure your tuner can handle tuning the vvti. if you cant get past that hurdle then go non vvti.

It just depends some guys want to squeeze out every bit and spool as fast as possible if that sounds like you then tackling vvti will be worth it.
If you rather have as little fuss as possible and turn up the boost to make up for any missing power then the fuss of vvti might not be worth it for you.

I dunno where the OP is getting a motor from, but these days if you look online the non vvti motors have gone up in price, so to me its a no brainer to just go vvti, and deal with the other stuff.
 

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Champagne Papi
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I was wrong about the pricing, these douchebag companies advertise both engines the same price when you call the guy pretends he doesn't know what you're talking about.. his response was oh we just hired somebody recently and he must have a mistake.. he's actually been messing up alot now that you mention it we may have to let him go... :wtflol:

Then I explained to him ive seen these advertised prices for over a year.. of course he hung up.


So anyway... should I buy a harness from ebay? Are they legit or is there a better source out there?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-2...g-Harness-for-SC300-Supra-240sx-/281057674937
 

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yeah, sounds about right.. unless you get a deal or know a guy most of these prices are similar to what they are online which is about 2k for a vvti motor and it seems like non vvti has gone up from 2k to 3k. There is less supply of non vvti and more demand because people still think swapping in a non vvti is easier, when in fact with a swap harness its pretty much the same deal.

vvti can make a huge difference whether you have 300hp or 1000hp. All the big builds are going vvti.

If I had to choose a stock motor to put in an n/a mk4, hands down its a 2jzgte vvti. Its the latest revision of the best engine ever and it makes more power with no negatives with regards to making huge amounts of power either. I even like the 1jzgte vvti. you can get those these days with a remote shift r154 for 3500 and that is a mean combo, you wont break any dyno's but it spools fast and makes good power.
 

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If I had to choose a stock motor to put in an n/a mk4, hands down its a 2jzgte vvti. Its the latest revision of the best engine ever and it makes more power with no negatives with regards to making huge amounts of power either. I even like the 1jzgte vvti. you can get those these days with a remote shift r154 for 3500 and that is a mean combo, you wont break any dyno's but it spools fast and makes good power.
Not to thread jack, but if I have a harness made by tweaked could I run the VVTi ecu that comes with it? More in depth, would my gauges still work or would I need to look at some 98+ supra gauges and dash harnesses? Dakota box?

My goal would be VVTi running stock JDM Ecu that comes with it. Looking to build in stages and would love to use what I have laying around haha.
 

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Champagne Papi
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Discussion Starter #20
Feel free to hijack as much as you want I am learning with each post! Thank you Ali & Jsantesson for the info! Keep it coming, PLEASE!
 
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