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dreamin' again
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have heard people say this many times and im pretty sure its a block/head mismatch between 1j and 2j, but i just want to clarify all of this. so exactly what is this?
 

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1.5JZ Turbo Supra
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3,378 Posts
You are correct, 1JZ head 2JZ Block 1JZ Electronics unless the owner wants 2JZ electorincs then they might as well go FULL 2JZ. I've heard on this board that the 1JZ head is suppose to flow better then the 2JZ head.
 

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Akai Suisei - 赤い彗星
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10,376 Posts
^Which has been proven incorrect fairly recently.

But, the 1J head still has great port velocity to get your turbos spinning in decent time.
 

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dreamin' again
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
so if the 2j block fits just the same as the 1j in an mk3. then why doesnt everyone just go 2j?
 

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Akai Suisei - 赤い彗星
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10,376 Posts
1JZdreams said:
so if the 2j block fits just the same as the 1j in an mk3. then why doesnt everyone just go 2j?
Because the 2.5L block makes power just fine and because I don't want a 2J, thats why.... :1poke:
 

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Project:: Reaper
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1,401 Posts
1JZdreams said:
so if the 2j block fits just the same as the 1j in an mk3. then why doesnt everyone just go 2j?
thats what i can't figure out except that the 1JZ with with a used 2J block would be cheaper than a full 2J swap, but i'm gonna skip the 1J
 

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Registered
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5,231 Posts
...reason being is that if U F up the bottom end of a 1J, you don't have to go to Japan to replace it. A standard 2J block will work just fine and they are readily available. No need to rewire, or re-invent the wheel. Replace the bottom-end and get back on the road.
 

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Akai Suisei - 赤い彗星
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10,376 Posts
Satan said:
...reason being is that if U F up the bottom end of a 1J, you don't have to go to Japan to replace it.
Go to Japan? 1J engines are very easy to come by in the US. and relatively inexpensive.
 

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Sawblades Rock!!!
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194 Posts
Satan said:
...reason being is that if U F up the bottom end of a 1J, you don't have to go to Japan to replace it. A standard 2J block will work just fine and they are readily available. No need to rewire, or re-invent the wheel. Replace the bottom-end and get back on the road.

It cant be that simple. I mean, wouldnt you need some of the accessories and sensors that come with the MK4? Or do all the 1j connectors/accessories/sensors work on the 2j block?
 

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Local Tire Destroyer
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1,008 Posts
how many times do we have to do this

1jz' is an easy relatively cheap swap, and the
motor pretty much drop into a A70 with little hassle

the 3.0 block is a nice replacement if yours shits out, or
if you want more power

ok?
 

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Registered
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231 Posts
so you can just pull the block off from the 1j slap on a 2j block fill it with oil and drive out? no changes exc.? I have a 1j in my 87 and this sounds like a quick and easy power add, not too expencive either.
 

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HMOOB VWJ NYOB MINNESOTA
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1,352 Posts
All the plugs and sensors on the 2jz are the same as 1jz. The only plug that I found that is different is the low oil level sensor. The traction control sensor is also the same if your 1j has one, if your 1j doesn't have one then just cut thing out.

Many people don't do 2j because it cost almost twice as much as a 1j.
 

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Registered
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231 Posts
but you can get a 2j block dirt cheap, replace the timing belt with 2j belt swap the pilot baring and your good, or so it seams so far. has anyone done this setup?
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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3,341 Posts
LOL it's not that easy.

The waternecks are wrong. The 1JZ waterneck bypass is too short, the 2JZ waterneck sensor ports are wrong. The 2JZ bypass pipe is longer, but not long enough.

Something is different about the crank sprockets. I am using a 1JZ spocket and it set my timing belt back too far, cauusing it to shred last night... Thank god nothing bad happened.

The brackets that hold up the intake and exhaust manifolds won't work, they're too short. The dipstick tube is too short, it wont bolt up to the intake manifold like it should. You'll need to upgrade the injectors because the increased displacement will cause the car to run too lean on the 380's. You'll need 550's to make it right.

You'll need a 2JZ oil pump for sure, The front covers will not align anymore, so you can forget about putting them on.

Exhaust fitment and intercooler pipes will become a problem since anything attacing to the head will now sit 1.4" taller in the engine bay. I had to modify all my intercooler pipes and my exhaust to bolt up to my downpipe.

You will need a 2JZ timing belt, not a 1JZ.

Anyone who tells you that it is simply plug and play has never actually done the swap. It is NOT, trust me. It's nothing major, but these things all have to be addressed.

- Chris
 

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231 Posts
Thats what I thought, nothing is ever THAT easy.

this is what I got so far:
need 2j timing belt
1j pilot bearing
I am guessing (since the problem you had) use the 2j crank pully(sprocket)
need a 2j oil pump and fuck the covers, I only like the top cover
fab longer intake and exhaust supports
fab a bracket to hold dipstick
swap in some 550 injectors
mod intercooler pipes and exhaust
I'm not clear on the water problem, do you just have to extend the pipes? is there more to that part that I'm not getting?

also, what about the tranny, flywheel, clutch, and bell housing area? will al my 1j stuff work with exception of swaping in the 1j pilot bearing?

thanks for the info, I am not with my car so I cant visualy check or measure for these things.
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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3,341 Posts
The waterneck has a bypass pipe on it to the thermostate housing. When you swap to the 2JZ block, that bypass pipe is too short by over an inch. My assumption was to order a 2JZ bypass pipe. It is also too short, barely. So... I ordered a 2JZ waterneck. Everything bolts up nicely without any issues. The problem now is that the two temp sensors that bolt into the water neck... One will bolt up, but the larger of the two will not. There isn't enough material to drill and tap it. I never investigated whether or not you could replace that particular sensor with a 2JZ part. I chose to get a longer bypass pipe made instead.

Does that clarify things for you?

The 2JZ dipstick tube and dipstick work as a replacement. The tube was $26 and the dipstick was $13 I believe.

Bellhousings and everything else bolt up fine.

- Chris
 

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Registered
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231 Posts
cool, so keep the 1j water pipes and have the bypass pipe extended, buy a 2j dipstick and tube. you also said your timing belt sheared, do you think that may have been caused by it not being fully on the crank or not alligned just right or do you think the 2j crank pully would fix that? you have cleared it up a lot thank you again. oh yah, do you think with the 550 injectors the engine would get all it needs or do you think I should also through in a 255 fuel pump? also, will the ecu get the needed fuel with these two thing just by the sensors or would the ecu need changing? I may end up having to get a emanage anyway due to the cams and valve trane I'm getting from Eric W.
 
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