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Discussion Starter #1
I was replacing the coolant hose for this thing yesterday because it's leaking. anyway, i think i got some coolant in it and ruined the electronic or whatever.


Now my car won't blow heat at all even though the car is warmed up.


If i leave my car idle, it will think that it's overheating and the coolant temperature reads all the way to red zone.

If the car is moving, it goes back down to normal range :(


Does anyone know what is it called? I need to get a new one.

 

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1JZ BLING!
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Heater VSV

It opens and closes a valve that lets coolant through the heater core or not. If yours is broken you can force the valve open to make heater work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
is it because of the broken heater vsv that my car think
1. it's overheating @ idle
2. No heat in the car (only blow cold air)
3. my coolant overflow bottle is full now instead of 3/4 full
 
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Can you explain forcing the valve open in a little more detail? I've read about it, since my heater vsv doesn't seem to move anymore and doesn't blow heat; I've tried to move that little lever but it won't budge whatsoever.
 

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SkyHawk Ecks said:
Can you explain forcing the valve open in a little more detail? I've read about it, since my heater vsv doesn't seem to move anymore and doesn't blow heat; I've tried to move that little lever but it won't budge whatsoever.
Go to the SOGI website, tech section for the full procedure. Basically, you check for coil excitation +12V when the heat is turned on. If you've got B+, then ohm out the coil to the valve. The common failure is an open (burned out) soleniod. I opted to buy a new valve, but the economic alternative is to buy the Mercedes part listed (SOGI) & save the bucks! I was prideful for solving it myself & had to "just knock it out":rolleyes: :D
 

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7M POWAH! baby ;)
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i would say more than anything when you replaced that hose you just got air bubbles in your heater and that's why it's overheating and your heater don't blow hot

but then again i could be wrong and it could be just a naffed vsv :p
 

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The Beginning
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If you want to get your heat working as a temporary thing you can:

Locate the vac hard line going to the Heater VSV Valve. It will go into a black solenoid, then on the other side of the solenoid another line running up to the top nipple on the Heater Valve. Disconnect the hard vac line from the black solenoid, and disconnect the hose from the nipple on top of the Heater Valve. Hook the vac line running across the firewall straight to the nipple. Just leave the other hose loose. When you start the engine it will have constant vacuum on the valve thus opening it. Your heater will work, but if you aren't using it you will still have coolant running through the heatercore. Just put it back the way it was when you don't need the heat anymore.
 

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Supra Fan
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I removed the vsv completely since I dont have a/c. What I found out was that if you remove the vsv, and FLIP the hose leading to the head backwards, it fit perfectly to the firewall! :D
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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vsv coolant hose.

ur problem means you either got

shitty hoses
BHG
bad thermostat
bad radiator
bad radiator cap
bad fan clutch
no or shitty fan shroud

overheats at idle because there isnt much flow in your system to cool down your shit. the instant you put load on, ur pushing more coolant through the system and it lowers temp. somewhere in there is air fuckin with your shit. eventually it finds its way to the overflow tank and finds its way out..not before it spills some coolant out of the overflow tank. which is why your shit is getting full.

in other words..ur cooling system sucks, air is getting in the system or something doesnt work and theres a fix somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
njsupramk3t said:
I removed the vsv completely since I dont have a/c. What I found out was that if you remove the vsv, and FLIP the hose leading to the head backwards, it fit perfectly to the firewall! :D
????
i'm confused.


do you have pics to better explain?


what you're saying is that, you connect the 3/4" heater hose that's connected to the head straight to the firewall 3/4?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Johnny Dangerously said:
vsv coolant hose.

ur problem means you either got

shitty hoses
BHG
bad thermostat
bad radiator
bad radiator cap
bad fan clutch
no or shitty fan shroud

overheats at idle because there isnt much flow in your system to cool down your shit. the instant you put load on, ur pushing more coolant through the system and it lowers temp. somewhere in there is air fuckin with your shit. eventually it finds its way to the overflow tank and finds its way out..not before it spills some coolant out of the overflow tank. which is why your shit is getting full.

in other words..ur cooling system sucks, air is getting in the system or something doesnt work and theres a fix somewhere.
You might be right about air getting into the system. So should i just keep on driving the car until all of the air is out?


Also, when i replaced the 3/4 heater hose, some coolant leaked out onto the electronic plug/connectors. could it caused it to short out and kill my heater vsv?

or is it because i got air in the system and just drive it till it get pushed out on the overflow tank.
 

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It won't get pushed out the overflow tank, you need to burp your coolant system. You can temporarily tie open the actuator arm on that round canister to keep the flow open into the heater core to get heat. My valve nipple crumbled of old age one day so I have mine routed directly from the block to the heater core, thus coolant is always going through the core. I can still get cold air, but when the motor gets pretty hot, you can really feel it around your feet!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cre3d said:
It won't get pushed out the overflow tank, you need to burp your coolant system. You can temporarily tie open the actuator arm on that round canister to keep the flow open into the heater core to get heat. My valve nipple crumbled of old age one day so I have mine routed directly from the block to the heater core, thus coolant is always going through the core. I can still get cold air, but when the motor gets pretty hot, you can really feel it around your feet!
how do your burb the coolant system?

is it when you leave the car running with the radiator cap open & turn the heat on max???
 

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Yes, and either a) have your car parked up a hill or b)jack your car up so that the air will rise to the rad.


Good luck!
 

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You may also want to check that hose for wear. Ive heard of it blowing up causing a BHG. The other day mine blew up and leaked all over the exhaust and caused a HUGE white smoke cloud from under the hood, lol.
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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Kroze said:
You might be right about air getting into the system. So should i just keep on driving the car until all of the air is out?


Also, when i replaced the 3/4 heater hose, some coolant leaked out onto the electronic plug/connectors. could it caused it to short out and kill my heater vsv?

or is it because i got air in the system and just drive it till it get pushed out on the overflow tank.
no, you properly burp your cooling system.

park it on an incline...take off rad cap, turn car on and turn heater on.

go to front of car and watch some coolant spill out for a lil bit....once all the bubbles stop coming out the radiator, put the cap back on and then youre done.

if the problem persists...then you have another thing comin..it means somehow air is getting into the system. usually its a BHG..compression pushes a bit of air inbetween the cracks of the fubar headgasket and into the cooling system..thus forcing air into ur system which eventually takes the place of coolant, pushes the coolant out and then it sucks from there.

does your coolant have an oily look to it? do you have a metal head gasket?
 
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