You might wanna give PHR a call. They advertise a 315/35/17 Forgeline setup on their website with all the proper specs. I'm sure they'd hook you up... I think Andi on here is running that tire size as well, so he'd know.
Sorry, I was hoping Andi or someone who was actually running a 315 would reply. Some of this depends on what width wheel your running. You can run a stock wheel with a 315, but it will rub occasionally and it won't give you an advantage over a 275 since the wheel is only 9.5" wide. I think Andi runs a 52mm offset and had to hammer in the inner fender well a little and cut the fender lip. If I were going to run a 315 on an 11" wheel I would use somewhere around a 48mm offset and roll/cut the fender lip. As far as finding a "cheap" 11" wheel, pick one. I would guess that CCW would be your best bet.
Thanks, I thought about buying some used stock rears, but wanted to explore my options. I can get the tires for $150ea. (I may wait for them to come down a little in price since they are a brand new size) and thought about just using them for the drag strip. I am thinking cheap and light and they don't have to look that nice. The CCW's look pretty sweet, but I'm not sure how much they run.
And since I would only use them to and from the track, I'm not too worried about minor rubbing every once and a while. I had cut fenders and am able to fit 265/35's and 295/35's on my 18x9.5 and 18x10.5 rims and they barely chirp if I go over a really big bump at speed.
Any wheel ideas would be helpfull, think function and not necessarily form.
I'm running 315 BFG DR's on the Forgelines, 17x11 with a 49mm off-set I believe. Have to double check on that. I did have to cut the fender lip and hammer the hell out of the inside part of the wheel-well just like Steve said and like Andi had to do on his. I haven't experienced any sort of rubbing anywhere though. Love the look of the 315's. Everyone should run on these IMHO.
I'm using a CCW 17x11.5 rear wheel with a 315 tire - no rubbing with about 2/3 of fender lip removed. No inner side mods required. Fronts are 18x10 with some LF rubbing on upper fenderliner screws heads, which I have ground down. Front is dropped 1.5". Tires are 285/30 in front. Prices for set are about $1,800. These are track wheels for me. Car really can use all the rubber. I don't know the offsets.
Damn! 285's up front, I thought I was pretty nuts putting a 265/35 18 up front. From the sounds of it, it looks like I am going to lean towards stock rims, because everybody is referring to nice expensive wheels. I am looking for a cheap set of rims to throw on the rear for the drag races.
This is thinking a little "outside the box", but it would work. You could buy some 17x9" 22mm offset Enkei RPO1's which are very light, and winden the them by 2 inches. This would effectively give you a 17x11" wheel with a 47mm offset. The cost for the RPO1 is $155 and then you would have to pay to get the 2 inches added. It seems like the cheapest way to get a 17x11" in the right offset. You would not have to have longer lug nuts or spacers like you would if you widened the stock wheel. It just a thought.
how much does it generally run to widen rims? If i got a set of rims widened, would it prolong the life of the rim? Can any rim be widened? So you could basically take say a set of blitz z2 rims, like 18 x 7.5 and widen them to 18 x 10.0? Is the rim weakened at all when they are widened? Where can i get a set of rims widened?
Also, what did it guys cost you t roll your fenders, or do whatever it takes to fit 11s in the reaR?
I cut my fender lip myself with a composite cutting wheel on a pneumatic die grinder. I was hesitant to let a shop roll the lip because they wouldn't guarantee the fender wouldn't be deformed, thereby requiring paint, etc. It doesn't take long to cut it, maybe an hour for both sides. I resealed the seam then painted over the bare areas. You won't ever see it.