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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys so ive got everything buttoned up, got the is300 coils in and now can confirm that all spark plugs are getting spark! (If youve followed any of my other threads you know this was a problem and 2 of 3 stock coils were bad) So im looking for a tuner around the Lancaster Pennsylvania area. Let me know of any shops that can tune this car!

I have 550cc injectors and the car only came with a stock ecu so i know ill need a piggy back or stand alone ecu to scale the injectors. This is definitely a budget build as i am in college right now. So im thinking of a ECUMaster EMU. Any thoughts? Im really just looking to get the car running for a fun summer car!

Heres the entire story or the car. Originally bought in Colorado in 1987 as a 7mgte manual. The guy drove it for a while and blew it up, rebuilt it with crower rods, wiseco pistons (+.5mm), built the head with BC 280 cams, BC springs and retainers, and Ferrara valves but retained the stock turbo, exhaust manifold and injectors.

He sold it to a guy in Baltimore who wanted more power so he took everything off the engine and planned out this build. Bought a t4 exhaust manifold, and a powerstroke turbo (idk how he was planning on getting the t4 to mate up with the v-band of the turbo exhaust housing) and so much other stuff. Well his friend who convinced him to buy the car died suddenly in a car wreck and lost motivation to finish the car.

This is where i bought the car and started putting it back together. I bought a BoostLab t4 turbo (6057) to replace the diesel turbo and bought a "new" stock wiring harness off Ebay since the old was was all hacked up from when he took it off. I have everything back on the car and put back where it should be. I have all the witing, vaccum, IC piping, just everything back together. The car cranks and i can feel it want to start but it sputters and dies after a few seconds. I believe it isnt idling because the injectors are not scaled and its putting too much fuel into the cylinders.

Which brings me to this point. So i am looking to buy a piggyback (preferably used) and for a shop to get the car all tuned and finished up for me!

And advice would be great, i really appreciate the help ive gotten from the forums and just would like to thank everyone who has answered my newby supra questions since ive only had subarus in the past!
 

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something is still not right. the background info is pointing to something electrical (considering you swapped in a diff wire harness). your car should absolutely start with 550's in there. i just dont see it flooding out with factory ecu +550s. something else is making it not start. a bad cps sensor / wiring will make it have the symptoms you are seeing. so will bad capacitors in the cars ecu.

could also be timing. the cams have to be timed to the crank. and then the cps has to be clocked right as well

if you do not have a wideband 02 sensor, that is the next thing you need. that big turbo can push some air and that means if it goes lean the motor can easily blow it up. once its running you need to see the oxygen feedback to see whats going on and tune it.

IMHO a very simple mod (and maybe you have this) is the larger airflow meter housing--aka the v8 toyota afm housing. super cheep, your electronics swap over, and it will balance the 550's out. car most likely would be running so you could drive it with the correct afm to balance out the injectors (once your solve the current no start that is)

your factory oxygen sensor needs to be working (once the car does start). the cars computer will take feedback from the factory narrow band o2 and trim the fuel injection system based on it. it will somewhat compensate for the larger injectors and trim them down. the afm housing is critical so it can do that as the injectors are to large for factory afm setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
something is still not right. the background info is pointing to something electrical (considering you swapped in a diff wire harness). your car should absolutely start with 550's in there. i just dont see it flooding out with factory ecu +550s. something else is making it not start. a bad cps sensor / wiring will make it have the symptoms you are seeing. so will bad capacitors in the cars ecu.

could also be timing. the cams have to be timed to the crank. and then the cps has to be clocked right as well

if you do not have a wideband 02 sensor, that is the next thing you need. that big turbo can push some air and that means if it goes lean the motor can easily blow it up. once its running you need to see the oxygen feedback to see whats going on and tune it.

IMHO a very simple mod (and maybe you have this) is the larger airflow meter housing--aka the v8 toyota afm housing. super cheep, your electronics swap over, and it will balance the 550's out. car most likely would be running so you could drive it with the correct afm to balance out the injectors (once your solve the current no start that is)

your factory oxygen sensor needs to be working (once the car does start). the cars computer will take feedback from the factory narrow band o2 and trim the fuel injection system based on it. it will somewhat compensate for the larger injectors and trim them down. the afm housing is critical so it can do that as the injectors are to large for factory afm setup.
Okay thank you for your feedback! I read here on the forums that the computer will not send the signal to the ignitor to flip and send spark from the coils to the plugs if the cps isnt working. All the coils are sending spark so i know that the cps is straight. And i know the timing is right because it turned over and went on its own for about 2 seconds. I know this post was probably a bit premature as the o2 sensor is ariving tomorrow (Tuesday, Nov. 12th) so the car doesnt even have one yet... that might be the issue??? I was just so excited to hear it go for a bit because this is my first bigger project that ive ever had and just couldn't wait to share it on here 😂, ill get that o2 sensor squared away and def order a larger afm housing too to put in this weekend. Ill report more next week but if any of that changes your thought then feel free to comment again!
 

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starting for 2 seconds is not a guarantee of anything my man. certainly not a yes/no on the cps or timing (imho)

honestly the only way to know the timing is right is to

1. put crank on tdc and verify cam gears line up to timing notches
2. pull cps cover and inspect potion of pickup gear in relation to sensor
3. put a timing light on it, jumper diag port and set timing

you just can't just trust the other guy did it right. you have to verify, cross it off the list and check other things....if this is a new car to you its cray cray not to verify this stuff. x2 when the car wont start

throwing parts at it / doing a is300 coil conversion is adding complexity to the initial problem (no start)

the cps sensors are known to have intermittent issues. sure you can see spark. but can you see its sparking on every rotation (no, unless you have a slow motion camera ....). it could be totally off phase and sparking at the wrong time (cps installed wrong)

have you tried to pull the diagnostic codes ? possibly the ecu is holding a fault code that will help diagnose

if the car is not seeing coolant temp or air intake temp it may default to a very rich situation. this plus 550s would not help !

if its really flooded you could disconnect the fuel pump (relay or at tank) and crank it to see if it runs and clears out (and dies)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
starting for 2 seconds is not a guarantee of anything my man. certainly not a yes/no on the cps or timing (imho)

honestly the only way to know the timing is right is to

1. put crank on tdc and verify cam gears line up to timing notches
2. pull cps cover and inspect potion of pickup gear in relation to sensor
3. put a timing light on it, jumper diag port and set timing

you just can't just trust the other guy did it right. you have to verify, cross it off the list and check other things....if this is a new car to you its cray cray not to verify this stuff. x2 when the car wont start

throwing parts at it / doing a is300 coil conversion is adding complexity to the initial problem (no start)

the cps sensors are known to have intermittent issues. sure you can see spark. but can you see its sparking on every rotation (no, unless you have a slow motion camera ....). it could be totally off phase and sparking at the wrong time (cps installed wrong)

have you tried to pull the diagnostic codes ? possibly the ecu is holding a fault code that will help diagnose

if the car is not seeing coolant temp or air intake temp it may default to a very rich situation. this plus 550s would not help !

if its really flooded you could disconnect the fuel pump (relay or at tank) and crank it to see if it runs and clears out (and dies)
Okay, i did do timing and i did line up the CPS. I unplugged the injectors and removed the oil cap and cranked it until the lobe was pointing up, then took a look at the cam gears to which the marks were pointing straight up. Then i took the cps cover off and aligned it with help from another post on here and the cyg website so i know that is all straight. I do not have a timing light so i should probably get one of those too.

I only did is300 couls because 2 of the 3 coils were high on resistance. So i replaced them and knew that was an issue.

The only engine code i have is code 32 (HAC sensor) which i have but cannor find where to plug it in... i have searched the forums and read that theres supposed to be a spot for it in the same area of the ecu but ive looked for about 20 min and just cannot find it. Other than that i dont have any other codes
 
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